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mk2

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Everything posted by mk2

  1. Yep. I know that feeling with my mk2s. But if a UK registered Raven blue turned up... TDIs are fine, but the chain and plastic tensioner needs to be done, usually by 200k km (125k miles). Beyond that you're on borrowed time. It's a seriously massive job doing it. I have one to do, but keep putting it off (in someone's 9N Polo). Cheaper to get a replacement engine when it goes bang. And cams go in TDIs.
  2. On regular Lupos, subframes rust and pedalbox/gearbox issues (but not gti, tdi or sport). Most of the other stuff is fixable. There are pages... Find one, then ask about the model specifics 👍🏻
  3. @Rich, i actually laughed aloud to your comment. 🙄
  4. Hey Hey! You do still exist... 👍🏻😀 @danno hasn't been on here either for ages either. Mind you, makes sense as he's now Lupoless. Even grumpy@RAB has got rid of his 3L. So many people dumping their Lupos (and Rosas). So what inspired you to check out all the old wierdos on here (I only speak for myself!)? Me thinks that once there's no toddler seat in car, you'll be searching for another Loop... Mmmm?
  5. How did you remove the sticky paint from the plastic? Volkwagen's worst ever idea that plagued all vdub and audi models. That rubbery paint affected so many cars. All because the engineers didn't realise that some people use face and hand moisturiser, perfumes, lotions and insect repellents- all of which affected the paint. Bad idea... Nightmare to remove.
  6. It's much easier to clean the headliner when it is out of the car... Take it down from the front, then work along one side, then the other side. The edge sits in a slot, so the headliner is slightly (about 5mm) bigger than the roof. I put it on a big table and use clothes washing detergent (cleans upholstery the best), then rinse with a hose outside. Be gentle, because it is easy to break it. There are two plastic tabs at the back that slot into the metal section that holds the tailgate hinges. You have to move it forward when you finally remove it 👍🏻
  7. Can't see the pics... Try jpg format?
  8. Read https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/107754-lupo-3l-not-starting-at-all/#comment-1203926
  9. Check oil levels, as they leak. And it might just need a shifter cable adjustment. If it still does it after adjusting and fresh oil, it's possible that it needs a new bearing set. Worth doing if you're going to keep the car. Might also be that the clutch isn't fully disengaging when you press the clutch. The clutch slave cylinder may need bleeding, which should be done every 3 years as standard (fresh brake fluid).
  10. I love those three gauges! And the volts and boost go low, which is useful. What brand are they? Where did you get them? Expensive? Nice!
  11. 100 mA is a lot. 5-10mA is normal. Check the alternator. Two of my Lupos have had this problem. One of the diodes inside the alternator became "leaky" allowing power to drain back into it. Disconnect the alternator power out cable at the battery junction (or alternator), and remeasure the power drain. The other way is to disconnect every fuse, one at a time, until you find it. Measure each time. Let us know if you find it!
  12. I use the Philips CE153DR hifi. Similar controls and awesome sound, plus DAB. What happened to your beautiful mk3? It burned?!
  13. I think, but not sure because I have not tried it (3L is VERY rare in the UK), when people do an auto to manual gearbox swap thing, they wire the engine that it is always in Neutral. So it can rev for TÜV/MOT testing in a regular 3L. The gearbox selector is changed so it is always wired for N (and starting). Resistors replace the gearbox solenoids & sensors. So if driving in the start mode the load map will be wrong, because there is no control to advance the injection timing. I'm guessing- I don't know! So if driving the car in start or Neutral mode, the efficiency will not be correct because the system is set to run for not moving with no load(???). Solution is remap or different ECU and different turbo system (same as 1.4 Tdi)? I would very much like a manual 3L...
  14. Without reprogramming the ECU for a manual gearbox, the ECU will be running in emergency or fault mode. I'm actually surprised that the car works at all, because the throttle demand is decided by the ECU, not the driver (or pedal). With a regular, normal 3L, you select drive and then can plant your foot to the floor to accelerate fast. The ECU decides how much throttle to give the engine, when to back off during a gear change and then how much power to give for the next gear.... etc. If the car works, then some major modifications must have been made! 👍🏻😀
  15. This got my attention too. Lots of questions as that is a sizable jump in power. I mean anything more than, I dunno know, around 130hp at a guess, would become somewhat uncontrollable. To get to those levels, the emissions would be a bit rough. Rolling coal comes to mind. It's a 1.4, so the boost would need to be about 3-4 bar perhaps? Not sure that little crank could take it. And CV joints. And half shafts. And ball joints... I have a feeling I've seen a pic of this machine before on here.
  16. 3L, SDI or TDi? Not easy in any. SDI, the most difficult. You must change the power steering system to electric first, like tdi.
  17. Apparently (I've not tried it), there's a standard Vdub plug-in relay that you can get programmable intermittent wipe from. You keep the standard wiper control stalks, and it programs by you turning it on and off, then a 'time later', on again. The delay is the 'time later'. I don't know the part number, but I think it comes as standard on some audis, seats, skodas and vdubs. Simply unplug your existing fixed time delay relay and plug in the programmable one... So my reply is pretty much useless, having just read it back! Any more info much appreciated... (there's a how-to on rebuilding a worn out indicator/wiper stalk mech)
  18. Change the gearbox oil. Everyone forgets to do it. Gearboxes need some love too...
  19. We're all here to help you keep this car going forever. Any unusual behaviour, sounds or rattles, just ask... Welcome!
  20. Yeah, 100% what @ObjectiveAway said
  21. Ok, the codes tell me that too much air is getting into your engine. It might be a leak; air being sucked in via brake hose, faulty brake booster, leaking carbon canister purge valve, an inlet manifold seal having failed or even an inlet manifold crack. Many possibles. Also possible; low fuel injector pressure (fuel pump, filter, regulator...). The air:fuel mix is wrong. Are you able to use diagnostics and check all the "measuring blocks", so you can see what each sensor is measuring? Like temperature when cold and when hot, that kind of data
  22. Misfire? could be loose crank sensor or maybe ignition system. Or worse, an exhaust valve blowing...? I assume you changed the temp sensor already. First place to start usually.
  23. You'll regret selling... And it's only just run in. SDIs go on for at least 400k miles (with lots of gearbox oil changes).
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