Ant0889

cardaft?

I may source one before the kids completely muller it, but the car is so old and worth nothing its not very wise to do. Don't suppose you know the box code? (curious now)

Long time no see! I forgot i made this thread, but the GDPR emails reminded me. I have good and bad new about Rosa. Shes still alive.. 198,761 miles later! However not for much longer. Her diff has given up and now shuddering under all load and all speeds. I've ruled out all other avenues and after draining the oil and having a look, you can see the movement and hear it in the diff. Its a shame really, as shes been a brilliant car, no electrical faults (apart from the bloody window regs), cheap as chips to fuel (400 miles to £35) and fun to drive, so nimble and torquey. She will be laid to rest at my work, where students will spend a few years taking her apart and putting her back together. Finally she'll be turned into baked bean cans and live on in our cupboards. I did promise her, i'll get her to 200,000 miles. which will happen, even if i have to put her on the ramp in 5th with a brick on the accelerator. I will report back about funeral arrangements. Cheers.

just to let you know, if you didnt, the motors/regulators fit from the older arosa/lupos, thats what i used on mine.

that is awesome! whered you get the lenses? does that have a led 'halo' too?

check battery voltage should be 12-14, any less as your batteries duff. rule out what the garage has changed but recheck everything is connected as it should with no loose connections or splits in the HT leads. Jgee could be onto a winner with the coolant temperature switch, remove the connection from the sensor and with a multimeter check its resistance, theres two prongs from the sensor on the rounded side (4 in total), touch the red and black leads from youre multimeter to these with it set to 20k ohms, depending on the specs of the sensor you should have a reading between 1.5k to 2.5k Ohms (when the engines cold). if its reading say a higher reading its duff. Another one to check is the crank position sensor or cam position sensor as these can cause non-start issues. depending (or both) on which your car uses, this is hard to test without a Oscilloscope but will come up if you have access to a code reader. Edit- just re-ead your post, ignore the bit about Cranki/cam position sensor as you say it starts eventually.

those connection in your first picture, connect to the wires in your second picture, i believe black to brown, red to yellow.

i believe.. and don't quote me, the factory stuff is controlled by the CCM. so it may be easier to wire in an aftermarket kit. not entirely sure thou

that's Awesome! visibility improved?

if you sell your old brake set up, let me know! mine are getting shagged

oooh... very interested in the exhaust changes, can you post a video up when its done! love to hear how it sounds

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vw-Lupo-Bonnet-1999-2005-White-Breaking-/121385691131?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c4326a7fb - this persons breaking a white lupo on ebay, message them for other bits. otherwise type 'lupo breaking' in ebay. hope that helps

I own the TDI version Arosa, cleaning the EGR got rid of my hesitance in 5 gear at 35-40mph and has improved my mpg. I also chucked in some Redex diesel, some will say it doesn't work, but from my personal experience it improved my mpg.

shame id love to see how you did it

Because I can really. No sensible reason available