cuprajake

ok boys and girls this is happening this sat 22nd from 1 in the aft jake

yeah it was more for the turbo guys tbh, i was just hoping someone mite also have a turbo vag car in the family, here is a list of all the cars that can be remapedhttp://www.ccctech.co.uk/chiptuning.php?make=Volkswagonif you change the make there are loads morejakehe can actually do the lupo gti but not massive gains, i would have to ask what sort of method he would usejake

hey guy's, we have been trying to arrange an upsolute group buy over this last week, but simon was away. i spoke to him this morning and we have sorted a few details out. DATE AND TIME: we are unsure of date, but the day will be a saturday. the start time will be from 1 o'clock in the afternoon VENUE: my works-panelcare postcode OL12 0LQ DETAILS: hopefully we can get 5-10 cars for the group buy on the remap, this will give us a good discount as fro cars to give you an idea aum -port tuning auq-port tuning aug-ecu removed arz- ecu removed to reprogram via port it will take 15 mins, the removal process takes about 45 mins, but as we have tools and what not we can all get our hands dirty and help out in that depart ment. THE LIST: if we make a list of people who want to have the remap done then we know numbers, n=other people are welcome, but only put your name down if you having the remap as then it doesn't complicate things, please pm me with your email address so we can sort other things out. jakewalsh gti1990 crouchies

im not saying you do, but you can still run the risk, the thing with wet on wet, obviously it depends upon the paint you use, that after time the base can sink into the under coats and can scratch, tbh the only colour you will see it on is a silver, with water base, they reccomend that you flat with no lower that 500 grit discs or 800 wet and dry. every ones different. end of the day they put the coating on, wether you call it electrostatic/cathodic/or dipped primer on the new panel to prevent rust, it does not need removing, just a good key. jake

yeah it needs keying, but if you use 320's you run the risk of seeing scratches in the base coat, esp if its a silver.

nope, aslong as it is given a good key its fine. i believe its called cathodic primer, v dubs is especially thick and resistant, it gives a good corrosion protection base, the next steps to the wing would be a primer surfacer then colour then laquer. jake

signed

you dont have to be a god sprayer, you have to be a good colour matcher ha ha style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> from an insurance ponit of view though, they would not let you blend a red panel, as it is a solid.

most large places have mixing scemes installed, these contain all the pigments to make every colour bar a few, so colour should never be a problem, also be wary of anyone who asks for cash up front, jake

hey, laquer flake occurs when a bad job has already been done, it is more common with badly applied water based paints, however if the panel work has not been prepped efficiently or has been left over 24hr between base coat and top coat(laquer) this can also happen. price should be dependant on colour really. if its a solid you can get away with doing just the bumper and bonnet, if your a met or pearl then your going to have to blend the colour into the wings, this just gives you the best chance of not seeing a slight colour differences. if like you say the bonnet is flaking, the old laquer will need to be removed, then possibly primed. same with the bumper, if there are stone chips they get primed to then they both look like new, prices for this would be: paint & materials £180 labour £25 met/pearl add £90 for both wings to be blended. just make sure you sample there work or go of someones reccomendation, also ask what paint they use and if it has warrenty. we have to supply a life time warrenty with ours jake

remove the rear bumper, to see the damage, then you need a jig, or something to attach a chain to tis area and give it a pull, only way really, try a skip. more of a bodyshop thing really.

no its a uk car, just has a different grill, power wise i dunno, it must be factory standard, as it has no engine mods, not even a filter, it does have the scooby sport back box though, gives it a nice burble. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

hey guys had to wait a bit for it, but full service history and very clean border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> jake

if you want good bang for your buck, exile are a good company, they are made by a group of pheonix gold workers who decided to go there own way.

or a loose earth on the amp itself

your right it is going to be expensive, deffo an ins job, the thing with nitro-mos is that it destroys all the rubbers to so you mite have to replace the front and rear screens if the rubber is encapsulated, aswell as the scutle and wiper, then there the fact that it soaks into the metal and can come back, even if the area is taken right back to metal, you need to nutralise it with an alkaline solution first. gutted for ya mate, we had a guy have is s2000 done twice in two months full squirts both times.

as soon as the gritters hit the road dont wax. wax is a sealent and thus traps the microscopic salt particts, these are very very corrosive to paint, just buy a good car shampoo and wash and leather the car, then in spring, use the clay bar, then a polish and fianlly a good wax. jake

always thought this was pretty cool border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />

just working of the glassmatics your looking at around a £360 repair, the wing costs £57.54 repeater costs £6.90 gutted for ya mate, hope its not done any damage to the a post. jake

gibbeth, there will be a visible difference, ha ha . thats why they give you the three shades, most colours now have 3 or more variants to pick from, ford diamond white had 26 last time i counted, be sure to get a good quality laquer to go over the base, thats where the finish lies. jake

not a lupo but i did get my leon cupra r when i was 19, thank god for our traders policy, i was quoted unisurable off many, but did get one in the region of £6500 hahahaha

common thing this, you need to change the iggnition and perminat wires round have a quick look in the how to section theres a guide jake

last of the greats gone, takes the piss really.

seen as your diy-ing it, do this: buy a cheap soldering iron, and get a few cable ties, then some two part epoxy resin, like haroldite. now you will also need some sort of plastic to use as backing. clean the edged of the crack up. then drill 8th drill bit holes either side of it, like a shoe lace pattern, now mix the resin and stick the plactic to the back, it should oozze through the holes. when dry you can either fill the crack up with melted plastic or, just flat and fill the rset with filler, this is a good quick fix that makes it pretty strong again. jake

lcr 275bhp, revo,miltek exhaust and induction kit. forge ricrc dv. changed to lupo gti, 135ish- pipercross, bastuck exhaust system dropped 140 bhp