Lupo-dreams

There's a recent post in the 'how to and information' section, which people seem to have been replying to really recently. I don't have the option of replying to the topic, though. I realise it's an info post rather than a chat one...but I was just puzzled when others have successfully replied recently and I can't! Thanks

I've got the 14'' G60 look-alikes on. Painted black with silver beauty rings. Even on high suspension with fat tyres, I'm happy with 'em. Go for it.

Ta for the reply, but I think it lives in Scarborough, I see it virtually every weekend when I'm there. It doesn't have pink detailing like yours either.

Piece of pee, just a bit fiddly and time consuming. I've had practice with much harder stuff to do on cars than that! I must admit though, I felt obliged to go and do some female tasks like ironing afterwards....I don't want a pair of balls growing down there! ;-)

Seen this a lot whenever I'm in Scarborough. Just wondered if you're on Club Lupo?

Hi and welcome. Can't really help with your problem, but until someone else chips in, your fuse locations should all be listed on the back of the fuse box cover.

Well I did a bit on Saturday (about 3 hours) then gave up by part 4, thinking it was bloody impossible to undo the clamp bolts...then started again with a better attitude today and managed to get it all finished off in about 2 hours. So for me it took a quite leisurely 5 hours, being as careful as I could. It's just a fiddly going on and it pays to have smaller hands like me (I'm a laaaady), for part 4 especially. Good luck with it, nothing to lose, as the worse case scenario is the greasing doesn't work and you're looking at a dead motor or whatever, in which case you have it all removed ready for replacement later on. Although the window whould need to be jammed shut with something in the meantime.

I'm well chuffed! I wanted to share this with you lot who have the same problem and haven't tried anything yet. Worth making into a Sticky if not already (can't see it in there). I don't know who posted up this step-by-step guide, but thanks very much whoever you are! I can't find my original help post with their names. I had windows that appeared totally dead, although the switches clicked when pressed, the window fuses were all fine etc. All it needed was taking to bits and a good old greasing. Couldn't believe it really...well worth trying before looking at replacement motors and switches, as it only costs a tenner for the sprays needed. Took me a while, being a fiddly job, but pretty straightforward. This is the guide I used : To do the job you will need to : 1/ remove door top trim by prising of the interior handle cover using a flat bladed screwdriver inserted at the small gap at the bottom of the handle cover. Then remove the two crosshead screws. Carefully pull the trim panel away from the door. Some of the plastic clips may break. Release the door lock cable and unplug the wiring for the warning light (on driver’s side). Tear off the grey interior waterproof cover. These are no longer available from VW so can be replaced with a sheet of plastic stuck on with silicone. Unplug the wiring for the electric window switch and door lock. 2/ remove lower door panel by undoing the 4 screws at the bottom of the panel and carefully pull away by pulling out at the sides and then lifting up to clear the top fixings. Remove grey interior cover as above 3/ undo the 10mm bolts holding the motor in place (2-3). Undo the 10 mm bolts at the bottom and top of the regulator arms (2 for each arm). Note one of these has a spacer that may fall into the bottom of the door. 4/ Take a 10mm spanner and reach up inside the door and loosen the bolts on the clamps holding the bottom of the glass. This is very awkward. I managed to pull the window and regulator arms down a cm or two which allowed slightly easier access. On the left bolt I could even get a mini ratchet and socket on it, which helped. 5/ Place a piece of cloth on the top of the door and then putting strong duck tape from one side of the glass, over the top of the door (and cloth) and stick onto the other side of the glass. Use at least 2 pieces of tape. This is to stop the glass falling and breaking once motor has been removed. 6/ The regulator arm can be gently pulled down and towards each other. With some gentle manipulation this will allow for the clamps to come away from the glass, leaving the glass in place - held by the duck tape 7/ Everything is now free except for the wiring to the actual motor. It is possible to remove this connector without removing the door speaker but just not worth the effort. Use an electric drill on the 4 rivets holding the speaker, unplug and move out of the way. The multi plug connector is used for cars that have the one touch up and down option. A two pin connector is used for those cars that do not have this feature. The connector is held in place by a plastic clip that needs to be pressed to release. 8/ Now everything should be released and the motor, complete with regulator, can be eased out of the space at the bottom of the door. 9/ Place the complete unit onto a clean surface. The motor has a metal fixing bracket on one side. Place with the other side up and remove the 5 crosshead screws from the plastic cover. Gently ease off the plastic cover but do not fully remove. Inside you will see the metal cable wound around a plastic spindle. Spray plenty of grease into this area. I used a spray lithium grease from Halfords. Refit cover and tighten 10 / spray all of the wheels around the regulator and spray into the area where the cables enter the spindle area mentioned above. Also spray the metal frame of the regulator where the glass clamps slide up and down. 11/ Carefully plug the wiring loom into the motor and plug the wiring back into the window switch. Switch on the ignition and try the switch to ensure that the motor now moves the regulator. Switch off the ignition and remove the wiring connector. 12/ refit the regulator and motor. Refit the bolts remembering the spacer. Reconnect the switch. Switch on ignition again and move the regulator to half open position. 13/ Now carefully remove the duck tape from the glass and lower the glass gently into the clamps. With the window in the half open position you can then easily retighten the clamps. 14/ Use the button to lower the window completely. Now spray silicone lubricant (also available from Halfords) on the 3 surfaces of the window opening to ensure that the glass does not stick against the door felts when in the closed position. 15/ Refit your speaker with a rivet gun or other suitable fixings. Refit door cards and job is done

I had exactly the same thing. My switches lit up and clicked when pressed but there was no sign of movement of the window (even if I tried to assist it with my hands) or any noise from the motor. I've just fixed it today though! No replacement parts were required! It's well worth trying before you buy any parts. Some kind person posted up this step by step guide which you could print off. It took me a long time to fix (fiddly) but was pretty straightforward. You do need to buy some Silicone Lubricant Spray and Lithium Grease Spray (Halfords sell them) to do it though. Also, the original grey foam inside the door has to be pretty much ruined to gain access to the parts, so ideally it should be replaced with some plastic sheeting stuck on with silicone. To do the job you will need to : 1/ remove door top trim by prising of the interior handle cover using a flat bladed screwdriver inserted at the small gap at the bottom of the handle cover. Then remove the two crosshead screws. Carefully pull the trim panel away from the door. Some of the plastic clips may break. Release the door lock cable and unplug the wiring for the warning light (on driver’s side). Tear off the grey interior waterproof cover. These are no longer available from VW so can be replaced with a sheet of plastic stuck on with silicone. Unplug the wiring for the electric window switch and door lock. 2/ remove lower door panel by undoing the 4 screws at the bottom of the panel and carefully pull away by pulling out at the sides and then lifting up to clear the top fixings. Remove grey interior cover as above 3/ undo the 10mm bolts holding the motor in place (2-3). Undo the 10 mm bolts at the bottom and top of the regulator arms (2 for each arm). Note one of these has a spacer that may fall into the bottom of the door. 4/ Take a 10mm spanner and reach up inside the door and loosen the bolts on the clamps holding the bottom of the glass. This is very awkward. I managed to pull the regulator arms (and window itself) down a centimetre or two which allowed slightly easier access. On the left clamp bolt I could even get a mini ratchet and socket on it, which helped. 5/ Place a piece of cloth on the top of the door and then putting strong duck tape from one side of the glass, over the top of the door (and cloth) and stick onto the other side of the glass. Use at least 2 pieces of tape. This is to stop the glass falling and breaking once motor has been removed. 6/ The regulator arm can be gently pulled down and towards each other. With some gentle manipulation this will allow for the clamps to come away from the glass, leaving the glass in place - held by the duck tape 7/ Everything is now free except for the wiring to the actual motor. It is possible to remove this connector without removing the door speaker but just not worth the effort. Use an electric drill on the 4 rivets holding the speaker, unplug and move out of the way. The multi plug connector is used for cars that have the one touch up and down option. A two pin connector is used for those cars that do not have this feature. The connector is held in place by a plastic clip that needs to be pressed to release. 8/ Now everything should be released and the motor, complete with regulator, can be eased out of the space at the bottom of the door. 9/ Place the complete unit onto a clean surface. The motor has a metal fixing bracket on one side. Place with the other side up and remove the 5 crosshead screws from the plastic cover. Gently ease off the plastic cover but do not fully remove. Inside you will see the metal cable wound around a plastic spindle. Spray plenty of grease into this area. I used a spray lithium grease from Halfords. Refit cover and tighten 10 / spray all of the wheels around the regulator and spray into the area where the cables enter the spindle area mentioned above. Also spray the metal frame of the regulator where the glass clamps slide up and down. 11/ Carefully plug the wiring loom into the motor and plug the wiring back into the window switch. Switch on the ignition and try the switch to ensure that the motor now moves the regulator. Switch off the ignition and remove the wiring connector. 12/ refit the regulator and motor. Refit the bolts remembering the spacer. Reconnect the switch. Switch on ignition again and move the regulator to half open position. 13/ Now carefully remove the duck tape from the glass and lower the glass gently into the clamps. With the window in the half open position you can then easily retighten the clamps. 14/ Use the button to lower the window completely. Now spray silicone lubricant (also available from Halfords) on the 3 surfaces of the window opening to ensure that the glass does not stick against the door felts when in the closed position. 15/ Refit your speaker with a rivet gun or other suitable fixings. Refit door cards and job is done!

Sounds like clutch disc or pressure plate rather than anything to do with the linkage IMHO.

Might be worth a shot : If there's a rattle around the handbrake, it could be the metal button vibrating on the handle. A little piece of sticky-backed felt placed under the button on the inside of the handle cures it. Had this in a Bora once, was convinced it was behind the radio area and was really annoying, but it turned out to be the handbrake button.

Sounds like clutch release bearing. It won't get any quieter and would eventually seize, so you'll have to attend to it sooner rather than later. Most people get the whole clutch changed while they're at it because the gearbox has to come out anyway and you know after that you shouldn't have to have it all out again for a long while.

My first thought was CV joint too. They are normally more audible when turning round a tight corner while driving slowly (into a side road or try it in a car park). Well worth getting checked out sooner rather than later...I've had one break into bits and ball bearings and broken metal drop out everywhere! Ahhh memories...

That's great, thanks for that. Well worth a try.

Well, got all my filters and stuff successfully done today...oil & oil filter, air filter and fuel filter. The only one which had me cursing was the piggin' air filter! You need to be a contortionist to get the airbox screws off and on again underneath the car! I'm so glad I have some ramps - I could lay under the car properly (without fear of it dropping on me!) Was still a pain in the arse though. Even so, I'm glad I did it, the old air filter looked well due a change. As for the fuel filter, I had a lot of air bubbles in the fuel line afterwards, the car spluttered and struggled, then started, idled and revved fine - still with big air bubbles going through...then I left it off for a bit and when I came back to start it up again my heart sank when it took a few cranks to get started again. Took it for a good run out with no ill signs and now it seems to have cleared itself out and starts up again as normal. Phew. Thanks again for the advice. It's nice to know my Lupo's had some tlc now.

Thanks for the offer, but I don't live anywhere near Guiseley, it would be a long way off your route from Durham. I'm not too bothered by the windows at the moment, just wondered if it was going to be something simple that's wrong. Come spring I'll have to get on with sorting them ready for the warmer weather.

Cheers for the warning. I've ordered an SDI one according to the chassis number, as there's two different ones on offer at most places I've looked, so hopefully it's right. If it turns out to be wrong, I'll have to go into a parts shop in person with the car.

No they didn't work when I got it. Is there a fuse for the windows?

Thanks for the replies guys. That's all good news. I've had a look in daylight under the car and I can easily get to the oil sump plug and the filter from underneath (I've got some little ramps to use so I can get under the car, and there doesn't seem to be any undertray in the way) It was mainly the fuel filter I was worried about, I didn't want to meddle if an SDI is tempremental with air bubbles or you had to depressurise the system or something aswell! My cars have all been ye olde diesels without direct injection. Although, I've done a filter change on a Mk3 Golf TDI though, so it will be just like that then, I had no problems. Sorted! I know what you mean about the different types of filter on offer for the SDI. Trouble is, the one it has on is OLD and I can't read a damn thing off it (part number). I'll just have to use the car year and engine code when ordering. Thanks again peeps!

Is the fuel filter dead easy to replace on an SDI? Is it just a case of whipping off the fuel lines and replacing the canister (fill it with fresh diesel)? There's nothing else I have bear in mind regarding the fuel pressure or anything? I'm new to modern diesels so want to make sure it's as easy to do as it appears! Also, is the oil filter and oil sump plug easy to get to on these engines for an oil and filter change? Haven't had chance to have a proper look, just got the car. Hopefully there's folks on here who service their own SDI and can share their experience. Thanks

Thanks! (Fine madam...not fine sir. ) Here's the little beastie : Gonna put my old steel wheels on for winter, cos I've got some winter tyres on those (I think I'll prefer the look of them to what it's got now) :

It seems odd, but niether the passenger side or drivers side electric windows work! You'd think at least one would still work! You can hear the switch clicking as you pull and push the button, but nothing happens. The windows don't open when I try the trick with the door open and the key turning the lock etc etc. What's the most likely problem? Thanks for any info.

Ha ha, I got one! Someone's buying my Mk2 Golf, so I just bought a Jazz Blue Lupo SDI, 2001 reg. Love it to bits, drove it 130 miles home, it did really well. Couple of niggles to sort (electric windows ) but other than that it's fantastic. Will post some pics in Members Cars.

Thanks, I thought so, just wanted to double check I can put my older VW wheels on it.

I just want to check : do all Lupos have 4 wheel bolts for each wheel and is the PCD 4x100 like older VWs? Thanks