Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. New Lupo Owner - Steering Help please!

    have you jacked it up and spun the wheel round to see if it is bent (look at both sides of the wheel) or if there are bulges on the tyre (look at both sides of tyre) have you got alloy wheels? they are more easily damaged by potholes because a) the metal is weaker and B when you have alloys the wheels usually have lower profile tyres on which means the pothole hits the wheel more easily
  2. How is CV joint held on shaft

    hadn't really thought of water going in, I can see how once in there it will not drain out. So just ordered on ebay 2 x stretch gaiters with the clips and grease and one cone for £7.99 including postage. seems ridiculously cheap. I only need one at present but I thought I may as well pay 7.99 for two instead of 5.49 for one . Watched a youtube video of one being installed (not on a lupo). Amazing how they can stretch that much. I will report back on how it went, but based on my lack of speed in getting around to doing things and the weather, it might be a few weeks. Whilst I was originally intending to do it the 'proper' way by taking joint off the shaft, these stretch gaiters seem to be cheaper compared to non-stretch ones.
  3. How is CV joint held on shaft

    ok thanks. I will get round to it soon. luckily the split is just by the clip at the narrow end of the gaiter so it's not letting tons of road dirt right into the joint at present
  4. How is CV joint held on shaft

    Hi "ear clips..... " i'm confused now. so do I have to spread the clip apart with pliers before tapping joint off the shaft or not (it is nearside outer joint)
  5. On my Lupo 1.0 base model there is a split outer CV gaiter. I could put one of those gaiters on that is split and then glued together once in place. many years ago that type did tend not to last too long, I don't know if they are better now. But I would rather do it properly with a one piece gaiter that does not need glueing. What I am not clear on is how the cv joint is held on the shaft. On cars I have done the gaiters on before there is a circlip holding the joint on the shaft and the ears of the circlip needed moving outwards with circlip pliers to let the shaft slide out of the circlip (the circlip remaining in the cv joint). I looked at a youtube video of someone, on a Lupo , separating the cv joint from the shaft and they were whacking the outer edge of the cv joint with a hammer and not using any circlip pliers. Is that the correct way of doing it? , not sure on exact terminology, does that mean it has a snap ring in there and not a circlip? do they generally come apart OK or can it turn into a nightmare? So if I take the three bolts out of the bottom ball joint, then get someone to hold the driveshaft pulling it towards the gearbox, whilst I whack the outer part of the cv joint with a hammer (I would probably put a lump of wood inbetween hammer and cv joint) should it come apart easily?

    I recently bought a Lupo 1000cc base model 2004. It has about 68k on it. It is a bit shabby, certainly not a one careful owner type car. Anyway, although there is some service history for early years there is no evidence it has had the timing belt changed. As it is 14 yrs old and the catastrophe that can occur with valves if belt goes, I feel I should replace the belt to be on the safe side. I have done this on many cars I have bought over the years when buying them. But, generally, do people find that the tensioner also needs replacing on these. On many cars years ago no one every replaced the tensioners and they never seemed to fail. Are they known to fail? when changing the belt do people find the tensioner bearing is showing signs of wear?
  7. Vw fox misfiring

    a code reader can cost less than what a garage will charge you to read the codes
  8. TDI has just gone bang - advice needed

    are diesels really out of favour generally. I know they have had some negative press but it would not stop me buying one, I feel a lot of people out there would still buy one for the better fuel economy and superior torque, particularly if they have had a diesel before. when it comes to money there are plenty of us out there who put our own pocket first and not whether we will pollute the planet. If it was mine I would probably have a go at fixing it unless I knew the car had a lot of other issues that would need money in the short term and make the whole lot uneconomically worthwhile. A friend of mine had a rover diesel which ended up with a load of bent valves, he put the valves in a vice and hammered them straight. Amazingly it all seemed fine after reassembly. I think the only two things he bought were a new timing belt and a new head gasket. Another friend had a Mk3 Escort (CVH engine). a load of bent valves which he hammered straight and a load of bent rocker arms (these are thick pressed steel). he hammered the rocker arms straight. some of them had split where bent, so he welded the splits. all worked when back together but after a while there were problems caused by valves not opening fully. this was because his welding on the split rocker arms was insufficient (a poor migweld without enough penetrartion), so he bought some secondhand rockers and fitted them and all was fine. I used the car myself for about 2 years after this. If you have gone this far with dismantling you may as well go for it (mind you I have no idea what a head and gaskets will cost you). but why did the tensioner stud shear? and can you you sort that out easily (I don't know how accessible)