N!cK!* Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Installed a capacitor but i dont really get it... When you install an amp and for some reason your remote from your headunit isnt a remote, its just permanently connected to your battery leaving your amp on even when you turn your car off your battery turns out dead in the morning yes...? Well how do you stop that happening with a Capacitor? My remotes now ok, i think im using the illumination as a remote or something but it works fine, now the capacitor stays on and the reading on it always says a figure, is this draining my battery??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigz™ Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 A powercap will always drain your battery, connected correctly or not Remove it chap, your alternater and battery is more than up to the job without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallika_Fan Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 If you don't want rid of it then you could install an inline switch which you'd have to remember to switch off, or hook it up in a way that it disconnect when you turned the hu off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N!cK!* Posted January 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Looks good tho dusnt it haha. Its runnin 2 amps and a couple of rockford fosgates, sum 6x9s an sum front comps so do i still not need it with all that? That inline switch i thought of but id jus 4get an it wud run out anyway! Spose i could just leave it in my install and jus not connect it ey... Bit crap that tho, id of thought there would be a remote kinda thing like with amps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomLS Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 (edited) There is a way to automate it, but it's going to be relatively large, and not the easiest thing to put together.Asuming you're running 2 decent amps that are internally fused at 40A max load, that means the total current is 80A.Because there is no integrated ic switching system that will work off a low power (as there is in the amp itself) you will need to switch the main line which has to carry full load.You can get high current automotive relays, but they're pretty pricey! What I'd do is get 3 x 30A relays for the above setup. (It will vary depending on your current requirements). This will comfortably allow 90A, so 80A non-constant should be fine!These must be wired in parallel, with adequately thick wiring. In addition each relay should have its own fuse (so, 3) which should be wired inline with the relay. The fuse rating should be equal or less than the load of the relay, but more than the amps requirements. So if you have 3x30A relays, and you need at 80A draw, then each of your 3 fuses would need to be 30A, because 25A wouldn't be enough.The reason for the individual fuses is that if one of the relays fails to open, the other 2 will be working above their rated limit and melt / catch fire if they aren't fused individually!You will need a connecting block to split the power from your main power cable to the 3 relys, and back again.The relay system is now wired between power cap and battery, and the switch feed come off whatever 12v supply in the car you like. (e.g. headlights, hu, or ignition). However bear in mind that to switch 3 relays will take perhaps too much current for the hu (circa 400mA)I can draw you a circuit diagram if you want - I don't know if what I've said will make sense to everyone!Edit: Oh yeah, most spade connectors are rated at 15A only so whan making your connections between main line and relay, and relay and fuse, you sould quickly solder all the connections to avoid damaging the components. Spades will be fine for the switching side. Edited January 28, 2008 by TomLS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallika_Fan Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 That is a very informative answer, straight and to the point, if i require any electrical knowledge in the future i know who i'm going to ask..It makes perfect sense, hopefully Nick'll be on a winner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N!cK!* Posted January 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Thanks a lot for the info mate, big help. I think ill have a go but i think ill av 2 read over that a good few times lol. Maybe if i print it out itl make more sense on paper! Ill get some pics up an all in the ice bit, c wt ppl think. Thanks again, Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icegeezer Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 Ok, Personally I agree with Tigz..Remove the cap, sell it and upgrade the Big 3Spend the money on a larger alternator if your having battery discharge issues, however if you have done the abouve you will have to run a massive current draw to cause any issues...HTHPete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomLS Posted January 28, 2008 Report Share Posted January 28, 2008 (edited) Thanks Tallika Fan Or a simpler way - Where the wire comes through the firewall, put an isolator socket and key as close to the ignition barrel as possible, and attach the key to your car keys with a wire or something. That way you have to turn it off to release the key so you can leave the car!Only downside is a bulky set of keys.Just buy the misses a bigger new handbag so she can carry them for you! Edited January 28, 2008 by TomLS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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