willh

I've got the same light up! It's the emissions check light and I've been back to the dealer a few times to get it sorted now. They replaced the EGR valve (yeh, like I know what that means....) which apparently is the re-circulation valve which just cleans the emssions up a bit more before being spat out. The light's still on tho so they reckon it'll have to be the whole ECU! It's only a year and a half old so luckily it's all warranty but it's still a ****in hassle. As far as driving it goes, I've just done 2000 miles thru Europe with the light on and it's been peachy! It went a bit mental a couple of moments and started splutterin but a panicky restart later seemed to kick it back to being ok! Cane the hell of it - that's what they like!

Was it your motor I saw parked outside Western VW this morning Starbank? Anthracite Bathursts gave it away! You weren't on that shady courtesy bus at half 8 were you? That was a fun drive back into town! My car's in for a safety check, swapping a blown LHS tweeter and to replace the dodgy EGR valve in the exhaust - driving to France tomorrow so they better get it right!

If you want healthy deep dished wide wheels you'd be best sticking with 15's or even 14's. The GTi's arches are larger than the other Loops, but with a nice coilover drop in the pipeline don't spite youself with anything larger! Keep 'em small mate!

Rolling the arch, which is essentially folding the lip flat against the panel, will almost always crack the paint unless it's heated somehow as the tighter angle pulls the paint round and it's very brittle. Flaring means the actual lip is then pulled away from the car and stretched to give you even more clearance. It may look more obvious from the outside tho as unless someone takes a lot of time over it, the lip will lose it's vertical shape and will 'flare' up and out towards the edge. I've had my Sport's all done prety brutally which cracked the paint and left them a bit of a funny shape. My front's don't rub at all now with 7.5 BBS's with liners removed running low, altho my rear 8's still do when the car's a'jumpin on the road or with passengers.

Alright mate. Good choice on the Sport if you go for it. Not as much power top end as the GTi's but they rev like sin and are plenty nippy to play with the Corsa boys! By the book, top speed is 116, 8.8s 0-60, and due to it's low weight it works out at 107bhp/ton. Get it slammed on coilovers and you'll have a minted motor.

On a Sport with standard Lupo arches (my car) the 8" RM splits on the rear still rub after arch work when booting it. The car is sitting low, but to be honest 16x9s will be TOIGHT even with the larger GTi arches when dropped. Put them on the car at first to check, but remember that on standard sus. it's softer than coils so will move thru it's travel easier under load like in cornering/bumps etc - that's where i find I have issues. All depends how hard you're wanting to drive your car Mel and what the roads are like round you.

Lookin sweet mate Get those rub strips off the doors tho - you'll love it Just rip them off and clean the panels to get rid of the adhesive stuff if there's any left. Afternoons work and a top spec result.

How about Sat/Sun 11th/12th of June then? We can pick up some throw away bbq things and a pile of munch - if it turns out to be good weather it'd be sweet!

Standard RM's (like the RS's but only 2 peice) are indeed et33, and are 6.5" wide. Deeper dishes can be added which of course lowers the offest so they stick out more. My Loop has 7.5" RM's up front with 8" rears running 195/45/15 tyres all round. They are a ******* to clean and the polished dishes corrode nicley in the winter, but even tho they also still rub slightly they're still the daddies IMO. Apart from some pimping wires maybe.......

When I had my arches rolled and flared I told the boys not to worry about paint cracking or anything cos I can get them resprayed etc. All the arches have been pretty bare on the inside for a few months now and are starting to show signs of surface oxidation/rust. I've got myself a tin of Hammerite and also a Halfrauds touch up kit for any visible paint needing done, and I reckon after some wire wool action the paint'll seal it up a treat. Don't think the dealer would be happy with any warranty bodywork chat tho!

I'd be up for a meet in June - any eve should suit me given some notice. We should get a whole bunch of us out. A BBQ sounds like a plan Craig. Somewhere between Glasgow and Ed? Or we could even venture over the bridge for our Fifers....!

Yeah - Autosol from Halfrauds is the way to go. I've got BBS splits that got proper messed up over winter, and after some abrasive pad action to remove the oxidation, Autosol has polished them down to shiny again. It is an abrasive cleaner but will get your rims lookin bling again.

They would drop on a loop a treat! I'm thinking about it......... Summer's coming up and they would be hella pimp for the ladies!

As long as you're not too low and you're using 195/45/15's you'll be fine mate. A substantial drop will change this however and you may need some arch work.

Yeh, all the above stats are very important, but you might as well start off by choosing a 195 section tyre rather than a 205. Only a little bit thinner, but it'll shave 5mm from both sides to give you more room to drop it, and if you go for a thin sidewalled tyre (195/45/16) they'll be lower profile as well. And your tyres'll be nice and stretched over 7.5"s, all good!

Might be worth a look under your car mate.......... When I dropped mine low at first I was still on stock rims, but it also rubbed on full lock. After some inspection tho, it was clear all was not good! The edge of the tye had been rubbing on the ABS sensor wire/pipe, and some quick electrician tape repairage was needed! No harm in checking, and as long as the tyre's rubbing bodywork or some plastic arch stuff, it will only be detremental to the patch it contacts and obviously the tyre itself.

I removed the Cat on my old motor, but the Lamda sensor was on the actual unit which I think is what you're talkin about here. Powerflow sorted it out for me, but had to drill and tap into the new straight thru pipe so they could screw the sensor back in. Essentially the sensor 's still in the same place and doing the same job, even tho the gases are encountering less resistance etc.

Speakers should be pretty easy to swap back at the end of your rental period mate as long as you use stock sizes and locations, but the deadening stuff actually sticks to the panels so is hard to remove. Saying that tho, all the panels are hidden by the interior so it's not really damaging the car visibly, and they'd never know it was there unless they stripped the interior for any reason.

You're gonna have all sorts of bother putting them on a low car - even with the arches stretched/cut/flared by a pro they'll probs poke out half an inch or so. Some wheel `re-furb` companies can alter the offset for you by machining the bolt face of the rim, but obviously there's only so far this can be done safely if at all, and you'd have to speak to them to see what they thought. For ****s and giggles you could do the math then buy some spacers from Halfords or somewhere that'd kick out your current rims to the same position. That would at least give you a realistic idea of what they'd be like. Try it front and back as they will come up different, but don't drive the car otherwise the bolts'll horribly snap and it'll be a 999 disaster!

Yeah that didn't work........ Just go 2: http://www.cessories.net/lupo/exterior/dietrich.shtml

Yeh I reckon that's the only kit I've seen that looks class - similar to the GTi's proportions actually. Check out this: http://www.cessories.net/lupo/exterior/dietrict/large.jpg' alt='a>'> I've always thought this looks the same as the Reiger kit

Yeah I agree with that - mine's been sweet, and altho I've never driven the GTi, the Sport will be a BIG jump over the 1.0l. You'll def suprise the local Nova/Corsa boys anyway!

Got any pics of the seats in mate?

Sounds like it's just the bottom bit. From the look of that pic it's the same as the Reiger RS type front.

In 5th my Sport bounces off the limiter when reading 120ish on the clock with the standard wheels on. The limiter is much smoother on the loop, my old Polo (94ish) didn't like it at all if you crept above 6400!