northwick

Thanks mitch. I still havent had time to sort this out - but I'll get back to you when I do. When you say 'feel along the underside' which side of the mechanism am I feeling under when my hand is going in through where the doorcard was? And if I manage to find the latch, if I lever it open, the door will unlock and I can work on it a bit easier? Thanks, Jon

From the 56 plates the whole range has had new Peugeot designed engines rather than the Chrysler (I think) crap that was in there before with poor performance and even worse economy. The new lumps are quieter, less thirsty and have much more grunt. The quality of the interior (notably the plastics) is much better post 56 as well. I'm not sure if all these people criticising the engines are referring to the pre 56 plate ones? And as for the comment that everything is an option, totally correct and typical BMW. As standard you get four wheels and a steering wheel.

I know that you are supposed to keep the revs low to get higher MPG but if you change gear at or before 2000rpm you don't get any turbo. I've been working on the assumption that changing gear at 2500 - 3000rpm is more efficient because you get the extra power from the turbo without having to inject any/much extra fuel. Am I misguided?

Yep - agree totally. Definitely something suss about that one on eBay. Didn't reach reserve either. I travelled 150 miles to get my Arosa TDI just two weeks ago. 2001/Y with 57k. Paid £2350 privately. Like Chris, I also have a 1.0 S Arosa and as Chris says, the difference in performance is incredible given the small increase in insurance and the savings in tax and fuel. If you can find a decent TDI in budget I'd recommend it. Jon

ARRRRRRRGH! The bloody thing gets worse! The door is closed and locked and now won't unlock! Used to be able to unlock it manually using the pin but not anymore! The problem: 1. The door is closed and locked. 2. Using the remote does nothing. 3. Pulling the pin up manually does nothing 4. Pulling the cable hard makes the pin rise but as soon as you let go it falls. Don't think it gets anywhere near unlocking the deadlock. Don't know if this is relevant but only since the lock stopped working completely has the red LED on the drivers side door pin started to flash when all the doors are locked. I can't see anyway of removing the mechanism without the door being open. Please please please any suggestions? Thanks Jon

Spot on with the diagnosis! And really good 'how-to.' Thank you! The only thing I'd recommend if someone else is doing this is to put it back together in a slightly different order. Join the two grey body pieces back together BEFORE you screw the two torx screws back on - it helps loads with lining up the clips. Anyone got an idea on a valuation?

Hi all. I've swapped my 1.0 for a 1.4 TDI. Pulls like a train in comparison. Uses less fuel and only £60 a year extra to insure. Brilliant! I've sorted the leaking rear wash wipe and I'm on with the flickering reverse light (thanks to help on here) but I'm still having a problem with the central locking. The passenger central locking motor isnt working. I can get the deadlock to lock/unlock by manually moving the pin but the motor has died. It was making the right solenoid-y noises (but not engaging the lock) when I first got it last week but now is totally dead. I've checked the connection and that doesn't appear to be the problem. What you reckon? Is the lock/catch the same piece as the motor. Is it easy to remove? Any special tools required? Or am I best off leaving it to a garage? Anyone know the part number? Also, do I have to replace the grey foamy membrane and sticky black glue stuff underneath the door card (asking partly because it is absolutely knackered and certainly not weatherproof on the drivers door!) Thanks in anticipation! Jon

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately I'm not keeping them both, no. The red one will have to go soonish. Hope you didnt go out at 11pm in shorts and t shirt to take that photo for me?! If so - thanks! I've just printed it out now so I can have a go at it this afternoon. I'll let you know how I get on. Anybody else got any ideas on a valuation? Looked at Glasses, WhatCar? and Parkers but theres so much variation... Some real life advice would be great. Also, any ideas on the central locking motor? Spose I'm better off asking that in the non model specific bit... Cheers, Jon

Hi all. Thought that now I've got two Arosas it would be rude not to introduce myself! Got a couple of questions too. Photo - The red one is a 1.0 S and will shortly be for sale. Its a 2001/Y and has done 55000 miles and has FSH (last service at 46.5k). Its got 4 almost brand new tyres on (3 x BF Goodrich Profilers and 1 x Toyo Roadpro), 11months MOT and 3 months tax. Everything is working and standard for the model - it really is in good nick and I'm gonna be gutted to see it go. First question: what you think is a realistic price? The bluey white one is a 1.4TDI and I love it so far. Its also a 2001/Y and has done 57000 but has just had a major service done. Paid £2350. Got a couple of teething problems though that I was hoping you could help with? 1. Rear wash wipe water not coming out properly. I know this is a common problem but I don't get wet seats like others do. Instead I get a puddle around the rear left wheel - I havent had it on a ramp yet but is there anywhere in particular I shall I look for the leak? 2. Reverse light flicker - have just seen on the forums this is also a common problem so will check it tomorrow! 3. Passenger central locking motor isnt working. I can get the lock to lock/unlock by manually moving the pin but the motor has died. It was making the right noises (but not engaging the lock) when I got it but now is totally dead. Is this an easy job to do - whats involved? Anyone know the part number? Also, do I have to replace the grey foamy membrane and sticky black glue stuff underneath the door card (asking partly because it is absolutely knackered and certainly not weatherproof on the driver door) Think thats it for now. Thanks in anticipation! Jon