r0ssi_tdi

Thats good enough for me then. Il be buying some new fluid and giving the brakes a proper bleed. Car is on 84k, im guessing theyve never been done. What are the tried and tested methods/mods on these to try and squeeze a bit more mpg out of them? Any input appreciated

Yeah i guess there is that argument. For normal day to day driving its probably not necessary for any brake upgrades, but ive found myself at cruising speeds of 30-40mph a couple of times and needing to brake suddenly for animals running out in front of me ( i live in a rural area ) and it feeling very spongey. I guess im just looking for more confidence when braking in general. Fluid change will only take an hour or so, so hoping that will firm up the pedal a tad... Watch this space!

Cheers Richie, Il look at some new lines and fluid then for sure! There's lots of things I'm going to look at, EGR delete, cruise control, remap etc..! I'm all about saving for fuel so anything in the MPG category and I'm up for giving it a try!

Well I'm a month or 2 in now and absolutely loving it! I've learnt you don't need to go fast to enjoy and love a car! Carried out a full service yesterday, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter and although there is no difference to the car in how it drives, I feel happy knowing it's got fresh VW supplied Quantum oil and new filters. Next on the list is gearbox oil, pollen filter, brake fluid and coolant. Something I've noticed is the brakes aren't up to much. I'm getting my Arosa mapped in the new year but want to sort the brakes before doing so. They feel very spongey so assumed a fluid change might help this, along with some decent pads. Is it possible to get braided lines too? As my clio really benefitted from them in terms of pedal feel/response. Is it just a case of the car wasn't built for performance and that's the way it is or are there modifications to be made? Also, massive thank you to Dblock for his "how to" on the oil and filter change!

So the rear washer jet wasnt working on my Arosa and after looking through the helpful advice on here, i discovered it was cracked inside the boot area. I removed all the plastic panel on the boot to reveal the plastic clip that goes onto the motor is wrecked and needs replacing. I cut the tube where the plastic bit used to sit in an attempt to try and slide it on but no luck. Am i now looking at having to replace the whole piece of pipe? or is there another way to fix this? Ross

Im taking my Arosa to Stealth Racing as i hear on the Audi A2 forums that they are pretty good at mapping the 1.4TDI engine. Im going to go through this with them and see what they think or can do. Sounds interesting though!

Yeah im going to be getting my car remapped in the new year. I bought my TDI for economy. If it will help with economy then im all ears, if its performance gains im not really interested tbh.

What are the pro's and cons then? How do you go about blanking it? Does it actually do anything ?

No no i fully understand what you mean, the torque does drop off around 3-3.5k so im guessing its not mapped... be looking to get it to Stealth Racing in Southam in the new year for a map then no doubt! Anyone had any experience of Stealth?

Good stuff cheers

Hi everyone, Ive not had my Arosa long but im amazed at how nippy the car feels and have a feeling it may well be mapped. Is there a way to find this out without plugging it in? are there any characteristics that i could look out for between a std TDI and a mapped one? Im currently getting about 360-380miles between fill ups. Il brim the tank (not using the expansion tank) then fill it back up when the light comes on. Miles to litres its coming back at around 60-65mpg, VERY happy! Cheers

Question around this... after the clutch pedal breaking on me, should i be worried now about the brake pedal?? That really wouldnt be ideal breaking as the clutch pedal did approaching stand still traffic

How did it go?...

Ok so ive got the car back... il take a photo in a bit when i get a second. When i got there he had the old pedal to hand to show me the bracket that had failed and you could see that it was broken. The worst bit of it was what i actually paid for!! Basically they charged me 1/2 hour labour to diagnose it (he looked at it in literally 2 seconds when i dropped the car off and said "oh yeah i can see it" so how they charge half hour for that i dont know!! Then an hours labour to fit it, £25 for a new pedal that i agree could have been welded in a 2-3 minutes, and then £1 for the white clip. Pretty disgusted to be quite honest with you!! Safe to say i wont be taking my car back to them again!!

Il get pictures of it and put them in here once I've collected it today

Thanks for the replies. So by the sounds of it I'm being ripped off? Is it worth going through the bill with the garage to break down the prices of things or is this the rate I'd be charged by any garage?

On my way to work today my clutch pedal snapped , bits of white plastic in the footwell. Got it recovered to a VAG specialist and I've been quoted £120 inc VAT to repair. They said I need a new pedal as the current one has twisted? Does this sound right?

Looking for a K&N filter for my Arosa TDI. All the ones ive found on ebay are circa £50!! Also, where does everyone buy their servicing parts from like oil filter, fuel filter etc... direct from VW or ECP? Cheers

Hi Everyone, Been a member on here for a while but only used it for asking questions when looking to buy a lupo/arosa a few years ago. Anyway, picked up a cracking little black Arosa on Saturday, 52 plate on 82k, full service history and runs really well. I drove a couple of Lupo/arosa's before settling on this one. They all had much higher mileage than this and felt very slow and sluggish in comparison, so really pleased. Is there anything I should be looking to get or do to it being a new owner? It's got the service book stamped as having the belts changed at 74k but no receipt, so I'm going to take it to a VAG specialist in my local area to check this is the case, any recommendations? Only problems with it so far is the window regulator arms have broken meaning the metal clamps holding the glass keep coming off the white plastic arms, brake discs have warped due to not being used for a while, and the paint work needs a bloody good polish/wax. It's bog standard also. Thanks Ross

Hi Everyone, Been a member on here for a while but only used it for asking questions when looking to buy a lupo/arosa a few years ago. Anyway, picked up a cracking little black Arosa on Saturday, 52 plate on 82k, full service history and runs really well. I drove a couple of Lupo/arosa's before settling on this one. They all had much higher mileage than this and felt very slow and sluggish in comparison, so really pleased. Is there anything I should be looking to get or do to it being a new owner? It's got the service book stamped as having the belts changed at 74k but not receipt, so I'm going to take it to a VAG specialist in my local area to check this is the case. Only problems with it so far is the window regulator arms have broken meaning the metal clamps holding the glass keep coming off the white plastic arms, brake discs have warped due to not being used for a while, and the paint work needs a bloody good polish/wax. It's bog standard also. Thanks Ross

Can i ask why you have decided to supercharge and not turbo? Edit: sorry just read what you said. If you have the boost mapped against throttle angle as the user torque request element of the algorythm, it means that you only run high amounts of torque when you want it, that way it wont run away with you like a lot of turbo cars do, just a thought.

This sounds like a popular mod that has been carried out countless times on Clio 172/182's. You buy something called an RSTuner, download the maps from fastchip.nl and then plug it into your computer/car, upload the map and then 10-20 mins later a few things have changed. With the RS Clio's being N/A the difference is negligible, apart from an increased rev limit, pops and bangs (if you choose that map), better cold start idle, and a slightly smoother power curve. Some people claim better mpg but again i doubt this is much different to the std map. If it were me id be paying (purely out of curiosity) for it to be plugged into a tuners computer/dyno and see just how well its running and whether they can make any improvements to the map provided.

This still forsale? I have PM'd you :-)