FraH2o

While I waiting some material to finish some ouside work, I started to work on interior. To check everything, i preferred to empty all

I continue with little paint work I Disassembled the trunk logo, dry sanded with the 360 grit, primer for metals, 3 coats of matt black and finally 2 coats of semi-gloss to seal everything Looking at the Lupo logo on trunk, in my my mind there was 2 way: erase all or even Lupo logo in black. As always, I chose the most comfortable way. Also for VW logo the same procedure for Lupo logo. P.S. I have deliberately left the footprints of the double sided tape to trace the original position and spacing of the characters.

Once I finished the job with black paint, I completed my mod to divide the positions light from the stop light I Removed the rear fog light cable from the plug and moved the position cable to the left side. For the right side I just moved the wire as no rear fog light Turn off Position light Stop light Then I mounted the delete wiper cap and sealed it with black polyurethane

Now that there're warmer temperatures i continue with my work In 2 days finished the other and last side.

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I masked, hot fan to warm near at side and heat gun to enhance the surface. Another fast washing with tinner and start to paint with bitumen spray that have a similar textured look like on lower part of bumbpers Three paint coat and some heat gun after each coat I think is an acceptable work. In the next few days I will give further passes of heat gun and then I will start to close all with inner mudguards and replace some ruined grommet of underbody. Today i'll paint black also the rear tinted hook that is too much visible under the rear bumber

Yesterday I started some small detail that usually tends to oxidize and rust over time making a lousy overview .... and all discs are new 🤦‍♂️ And comparison I then started the preparation work for the painting of the lower part of the side like on this "muse" As in all my jobs, when I have the classic doubt "to do or not to do?"... I passed a sandpaper without thinking about it on the lower side of rear mudguard to tell me: "ok, there's no turning back" Started sanding at 600 wet and washed down with thinner TodayI'll mask and a final antisilicon coat, heat gun to heat the part to be painted to 20-25 degrees and then I will also go ahead with this mod. I will also paint the innner door sill up to the height of the door rib. I foresee 1 abundant hour of masking which in some places will not be easy

Yes, but before arrive to fit bumpers, i have some details to fix

Right side finished At least it's on its wheels and I can start working on the heights, but before that I have various details to sort out.

Hi mates, yes also in italy for tyre sizes but slighty permissive and close one eye....😅 Fo rear taillights i think no differences between LHD and RHD. The bulb hoder has the same lamp position and no dummies. The hole for fog light on right cluster is opened (i think the same on UK for left cluster). So to make this mod is just only to swap then pin, but there's another trick to to. The new stop lamp will be a 21w, so need to isolate the contatct for older 21/5w. The future 5w will be positioned on ex fog light position. But for this mod I'll show better in the future with pics.

For the rear I understood that it was more difficult. Like as mines golf Mk3 the rear outside fenders are usual welded with inside mudguards and welded on the edge. First I "unloaded" the bridge from the spring and removed the bottoms from the shocks and I signed the possible contact area of arch with the tyr Here too a heat before a start of bending with use of the rubber hammer And then another work with heat gune and roller fendere with slighty passes and light increase of bending on each passes Everything ok .... indeed in the future I could dare an 8j

After a bit of absence and work at home, I'm back to work on the Lupo I fit tyres on rims with 185/45 R15 A littlw bit of stretch, which will help me out with the fenders I strated from the front….and as predicted on the various forum is quite easy. I used the usual tools and a little patience, I edged the inside, closing it and enlarging it by about 1cm I prepared the edge with heat gun, bent slightly with a rubber hammer and finished with the roller fender and always with regular heat gun passes.

I used 2 old and ruined tailights as test: I tried to open them (failing miserably) and i tried to tint white lines of the arrow portion. Very ahrd match the same translucent red. The headlights are to easy . The raars in general are a very hard to work on ... no glues but only plastic welded and therefore cracking them is a moment. In the end I opted for the easy way like on golf 3 that has the same US spec rear light. The stop together with the position ( P21 / 5w) is not for me. in my own opinion is Not very functional f, not very safe and visible. On lupo stop and position are in the upper part of the lighthouse. I divided them excluding the rear fog. Turned off. Position light with R5Wlamp (instead of the rear fog light P21w) Only Stop light in its original position with P21w I made this fast test using a cutted rear plug. On my Lupo wiring it is basically an easy job to change the position on the pin using these pin extractors. In the nexts post I will publish the displacement of pins on the plug and the isolation of the disused rear fog. This work is fullreversible. Blue track: stop light Yellow track: position light Red track: side blinker Brown track: ground Green track: rear fog light Purple track: reverse light

In the meantime I'M waiting for the tires and work on the fenders I enjoy with some details. I exchange the color matched mirror covers with black textured, also remvoved the cristal blinkerd and fitted the new smoked. I also start the delete of rear wiper.

Think and think again, finally i got my decision Or wrap or plastidip paint and I do this step too. For me It has more harmonious and elegant line… .in few word I like it more. Also taken another pair of taillights to change the position of the various lights. I always unliked the stop light with postion light My idea is to make the position instead of the trun signal (Polo 6n2 look) and the stop instead of the fog light (pics taken from a vido find on youtube) Turn signal and reverse light in cohabitation in the rear light pod. The reverse light wil be fitted with w5w with lamp holder and made a new wiring I am sacrificing an hold tail light where I am experimenting with tamiya clear red spry can for the turn signal portion (which i remode the inner green lime bulb), so as to modify internally and not touch the polycarbonate externally.

The oil pan have 70mm of clerance from gorund. Is low but safer than golf that is about 35mm. I use sump saver for golf that protect sump, gerabox housing and subframe. Here the golf And here the sump saver of golf after 70000 km od daily use (about 45.000 miles) Lupo is low but not enough as golf. I also will buy the sump saver for lupo and i think and hope that are useful like on golf

I completed the brakebleeding and a fast adjust of the front coilover and finally grounded

Springs has finally returned. They're warmed and reardened for a total reduction of 60 mm. I painted the heated part by first giving the metal primer and iron mica ... I deliberately left half the spring yellow and half the spring gray mica, Then the absorber. Here the comparison of ammo: oem vs coilover (-35mm) and Corsa b (-87mm) The comparison was made taking as reference the difference in length on the rods. I then lined the thread of spring holder to give a minimum of protection.

Hi mk2 I made by myself useing braides hose and brake connector bought on local shop....but i think you can find on the net. The connction are M10x1 and not need swaging machine, it's the same method to do brake lines for motorcycle or scooter.

Ciao Compaesano! E ottimo garage!

I Also fixed the speech of handbrake ropes Blue: Drum wolf Red: Disc wolf Yellow: Golf mk3 with discs Having the golf mk3 at home, I tried to see if I could use them but in addition to the difference in length (a 20 cm), the measurement of the sheath and related terminals also varies. Handbrake cables lupo gti and problem solved. Also fixed the clips that stop the cables to the bridge and everything is ok and perfectly functional. Finally I wanted to test the do-it-yourself bleeding system with a vacuum pump… which proved to be effective and easy to use. Now I wait for the rear lowered springs and then maybe I move on to the rolling of the fenders.

The reassembly of the braking system is almost finished. With the sanding pad I made the necessary recess for the head of the lower bolt for the caliper holder bracket. A quick paint of black and this too solved. I Painted the dust covers, greased everything and mounted the discs. For the moment I have left the old caps to make the last tightening of the hub bolt with the wheel mounted, once adjusted I will also put the new cap. To keep in place the new rear brake lines , I took 4 new clips that hold the abs sensor wiring and I reused the original pins. I Reassemble the calipers and connect everything. The Lupo GTI's brake cables (already at home) are the final step, just need bleeding, and if there are no surprises, the braking system should also be fine.

I go ahead on with calipers Also clean the front I thought about making bases out of self-locking (which I have a good extra dose of) and threaded rods. In this way, painting should be easier and also the overhaul kit for all calipers And finally an acid green as paint for calipers (99% chosen by the daughter) 😆 And after 2 hours and 2 coats, a 24h of complete drying

Hi tchuki. I did them by myself and hydraulically tested in the workshop. In the past I have done it for the braking systems of my scooters and for the moment no problem. For the connectors i went to local brake shop and bought M10 and braided hose but i think is easy to find on the net.

I started a pre-assembly to forward/check all the connections with the brake line and start having a response on the clearance on the rear axle with future rims ABS sensor good I'll be be a slight milling to accommodate the head of the lower bolt that fixes the caliper holder to the hub In the meantime, fittings and pipes for the brake line have arrived and all seems to work good And a quick test to watch the future clearence anfd work to do on whell arch I'll wait to check the front axle as well and then I'll think about taking the epytec camber spacers between the bridge and hub. For the moment even if internal of 5 mm I do not mind the rear. I will evaluate. Today it remains for me to check the handbrake cables (still golf mk3) and then I will proceed (after having made the tube) to disassemble the front to refurb the calipers also