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  1. Well after staying away from the car and just living with the problem I finally got the issue resolved. N75 Boost Control valve, car instantly drove better and on boost never cut, so much so a week later I got someone to remap and delete the egr out of the ecu, stage 2 map about 105 bhp. The car is so much better to drive, feels nippy and no need to change down gear as much as before, sits on the bypass and can pull into the fast lane with no problem of trying to build up speed, instant torque. Also just got myself some ATS Rota wheels.
  2. Sausage: These are from when I bought it, only difference is I put some Hekos on there.
  3. Sausage, do you want the car for a week. It's loosing me.......
  4. Looks like I changed the N18, I emailed a company who on there web site shows that as a N75. Looking all over the web that part comes up are an N75 for all other VAG. That other part N75 ( N18 I thought it was ) looks a mare to change, it's not bolted on but some rubber grommets and got all those pain Clic clips attached. There even harder to find on ebay and cannot find them any where else for sale. Just cleaned out the MAP and it's an original Bosh large probe. Got the part number and there £40 but not sure if that may cause the issue. My MAF is a solid unit original Bosh but is missing the diode off the side ( but the MAF is not going to cause the boost to cut ) The MAP part no is: 038906051 But I cannot find the part number for the MAF. So I may have to decide if to buy the N75 ( what I thought was the N18 ) and also a MAP sensor. Honestly give me a Pug/Cit DW10 motor any day, my 2nd ever Vag and not impressed with there issues they throw. Reading through the link you sent Sausage, he had an injector problem, I don't understand though how an injector can cause the boost to cut. I did look at the deviation of the injectors and there was a difference, think No 1 was close to 0, No 2 was = 0.35 and No3 was + 0.3. So well with in the 1.2 tolerance and thats even with a Maf not 100%
  5. Well I changed this part first pic what I think is the N75 and still the same. The second pic is that the N18? This os the one that leads to the turbo. I have tried unplugging the MAF so that kind rules it out and that only controlled the fuel not boost. MAP sensor I honestly dont know any tricks for checking this. Intercooler looks in great condition along with he pipes. I cannot open the files posted the forum wont allow me to. Going to put it into a fitters hands in the next few weeks to see if he can find the fault. It's really annoying as it would be a nice car if it was not for the fault and I dont plan on spending hundreds upon hundreds on it. Give it a while and if still the same may just pass it on, see what I'm offered for it. EDIT: Connecting VCDS Lite, whist parked just revving the car at standstill I can get a boost pressure of 1550 mbar, this is about 22.4 psi, is this way to much, could it be the MAP sensor shot?????
  6. Little update. Got my VCDS working and cleared all codes ( as I went unplugging everything had a few ) After a short drive MAF sensor is throwing up a code every time ( easy enough ) Now when I get it to go into limp mode it's bringing up fault code 17964. I have a new N75 here to fit ( hopefully it's that ) BUT the N75 on other VAG control the Actuator on the turbo, on the Arosa it goes to the EGR and also another Valve/Solenoid and this secondary Solenoid then leads to the Turbo Wastegate. Little confused. Any advice on the second solenoid that the N75 leads to. Also best or what to avoid with a New Maf?
  7. Anyone got known good N75 & Boost control valve spare please.
  8. Nope not that pipe, goes to the airbox. Can I disconnect the pipe to the waste gate?
  9. Little lost. N75 valve, you got two pipes on the bottom right and one slightly higher on the left. The slightly higher one on the left where is this supposed to go, mine leads off left across the bulkhead and is not attached to anything. How important is this pipe??????? Anyone got a pic of where it attaches to please. Thank
  10. rdstars

    TDi 1.4 Remap

    I've looked into doing it myself but my laptop is Win10 64 bit. While googleing noticed a few people had issues with Win10 64bit. Got to sort out the limp mode issues also, ordered the software and cable for fault codes.
  11. Completely stock, full service history and seems well looked after for all it's life. I put the egr blanking plate in at the egr side also. What is the best code reader for these or will any of the cheap one's read ok, or use the laptop ( I'm 64bit Win 10)
  12. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. My TDi when nipping through the gears feels fine, come to the bypass and put your foot down and by 4th it will loose boost, limp mode. If you flick the ignition off and back on it will pick up again flat out all the way, come to a round about and back up going through the gears and it will do the same. Cannot be the turbo, filters are relatively new and had the same problem when they were new. Things I've tried. All the hoses, intercooler, seem fine. cannot see anything wrong with the pipes around the N75 valve. I've put a blanking plate in for the egr, ran with the MAF disconnected, unplugged the N75, unplugged the one to the left of the N75. All of these did nothing and still the same. I unplugged the connector to the right of the N75 and ran flat. Really lost on this one.
  13. rdstars

    TDi 1.4 Remap

    Is there anyone local'ish South Wales that has the cable and file who can remap my Arosa 1.4 TDi
  14. Just wondering where to do the Tweeters link to the mid's, is it at the mid in the door it's self (I know it's not at the ISO at the back of the stereo ) Going to replace the components with some JBL CS that I have hear but run off the original cable, obviously need to wire in my filters/crossovers. Looking to make it as easy as possible. Thanks
  15. Price? Decat downpipe. Coilovers, what make are they and how old. Dab bee sting Ariel Cheers
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