Jump to content

JoeyEunos

Members
  • Posts

    428
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21

Posts posted by JoeyEunos

  1. Some truths....

    1. There's no difference in terms of the level of rustproofing in JDM cars vs European ones. This is a myth banded about in the nineties and has been proven many times now to be incorrect, they were made in the same factories and on the same production lines as our domestic cars and other than some subtle differences (Flares/no fog light requirement) were built in the same way.

    2. Despite glossy importers images of pristine cars, the reality is that the Japanese Barry their cars just as badly if not moreso than we do.... Think MAX POWER meets driven through Halfords with velcro attached. Cars are often tidied up to make them look like cherished examples before sale/import.

    3. The only real virtue of importing a car from the land of the rising sun aside from some build/spec quirks here and there is rust (Or the lack-of). This makes sense for MR2's/MX5's/Skylines/Imprezas etc as they all dissolve in our salty winters, Lupo's not so much, they're galvanised. Granted, they do rust, but not to the same extent as the aforementioned cars and as such you still stand a fairly good chance of finding a rust free example domestically. 

    In short I can think of lots of cars that would be arguably worth paying the premium to import, IMO it would be pointless paying to bring something like a Lupo over.

  2. 3 hours ago, mk2 said:

    TPS is just Vdub in disguise (it's owned by VAG). I've found pricing identical to dealers...

    Weird, I've found them a fair bit cheaper... 5l of Quantum Platinum is circa £12 at TPS but close to £30 at the dealer, '5+ range' battery for the Golf was £55 at TPS but £70ish at VW :ph34r:

     Also the red Quantum coolant they sell meets G12 and is cheap, unlike the extortionate purple G13 stuff at the stealer :blink:

    Maybe there are regional differences?

    Either way (And back on topic) I'm pretty sure @Rich offers a drive in-drive out pedal box welding service, depending on where you are it might be worth giving him a nudge :)

  3. 1 hour ago, lupo 1.7sdi said:

    My car is about 350k km (217k miles), I changed the oil in the box twice and every time I put the vw g50.
    It still works very well both at -30 degrees celsius and at +40 degrees celsius.  Of course I always made sure that the box is full (I swapped the selector seal once)

     

    Yes, G50 seems to be working perfectly well for me too, like you I've replaced the selector seal and keep the box topped up.

    1 hour ago, lupo 1.7sdi said:

    I periodically greased the selector mechanism.

     

    Do you mean the selector shaft, or the linkage mechanisms?

  4. 1 hour ago, Rich said:

    I celebrated the weekend by doing a gearbox for someone.

    it was fun with no beers or sausage. :(

    More fool you for not making it clear that beer/ weird imported sausage are crucial for a smooth job.

    Only got yourself to blame.

  5. 23 hours ago, Rich said:

    they are £30 mk4 gti seats, only three door ones I found.

    Thought so... They were described as 'Sports Seats' in the original brochures IIRC, they look like Recaros but aren't -_-

    I bought a set of these for £30 too, then found a better set (3X3 rear belts) for £20, so I've actually got two sets, one set lives in the loft. Mk4 parts = pretty much rock bottom price at present.

  6. On 4/12/2018 at 12:51 PM, Rich said:

    "Bush analysis time"

    ^The magic words that the female contingent of CL have all been secretly waiting to hear you utter...

    Don't keep us all in suspense...Did it put an end to the knocking?

    Mine's had a hideous clunk ever since I bought it a few years back (I actually came and spoke to you in person about it when it was in the first week of it's tenure at cassa Eunos IIRC)

    I've done drop links, rear shocks/boots/bump stops, but in the end learned to live with it given driving an SDI is pure misery irrespective of much clunkorz. Perhaps ARB bushes are to blame for mine, if not maybe rear beam bushes :unsure:

  7. No need to remove the bumper to change the aux belt, but to change the PAS or the hardlines it's a necessary evil IME. 

    Removing the bumper is pretty much the same sequence as MK4 golf, I'm sure there's a YouTube video of the process, just have at it  ? 

    It'snot complicated, but it is deffo time consuming compared to other VAG stuff.

     

  8. Right, I wanted to wait a few days before coming here and gloating, the issue is now resolved ^_^

    A bottle of 'Tunap 984' and 30 miles on the motorway in 4th gear later and job jobbed :) The car is running well and pulling cleanly from low revs so the strip down and cleaning of trumpets/inlet manifold will have to wait for another day... The car's due a service within the next couple of weeks so that will help too I'd imagine.

    Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this, you're a good bunch ;) 

  9. Right, I shall start with the easy stuff first then...

    1. Half hours motorway blast at high revs this morning (Possibly with added redex or injector cleaner added).

    2. Replace air filter.

    3. Replace fuel filter.

    4. Blank EGR

    5. Remove trumpets/inlet manifold/EGR and clean.

    6. Check fuel pickup/strainer.

    7. If all else fails then diesel purge and perhaps even chuck a new CTS at it (Long shot though IMO)

    I'll do these in order so as to see what effect each step has.

    RE EGR, I think simply bunging the hose won't really provide much insight as if it's stuck open then this will have no effect as mentioned.

    RE removal, it looks a right pain. The unit appears to be held on by a threaded bar without a nut to spin it off -_- Is it simple a case of grabbing one end of the bar with mole grips? Is the EGR itself threaded inside to house said lower threaded bar? How does it all work?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.