Sausage
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Posts posted by Sausage
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On a standard car it looks naff, on many a modded car it also looks naff. Some can pull it off, but usually they need to be low and wide.
Subtle over shouty me thinks...
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Clutch is a weak point so expect slippage unless you spend on an uprated one or are pretty cautious with the torque map. With an ambitious remap on standard(ish) hardware you should get near those figures. The standard injectors if I remember right they are 465cc same as PD115 and good for approx 42hp per cylinder, that is about the limit of the turbo as well.
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I havent done it yet but should be finally getting the pd150 in a few weeks time that i should have got before lockdown happened. When i get it I will be doing a test fit in my wrecked TDI to get a better idea of what needs doing.
Depends where you are with the 1.4 engine and what you are hoping to get out of it. People are getting over 200HP from the 1.4 but you have to chuck money at it for that, but 150 is pretty easily achieved and for much less expense. Remap = 100 - 130 depending on how mad you go with injectors, better injectors and turbo around 150 - 170 you need bigger flywheel and clutch here though. as well as intercooler, exhaust etc. Anything beyond that then you may as well go to 4 pot engine tbh.
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Tyres probably wont fit as they look taller than 45s, need to be 45 profile or less on 16s otherwise they will be too tall and foul the foot well when turning. Unless they are real skinny then you might get some 50s to work.
Depends how low you are as well.
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Whats the difference with the GTI struts? I assumed it was just spring ratings. Pretty sure I have GTI Bilsteins on my TDI but could be wrong as I bought them a couple of years ago lightly used.
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Sorry for you loss. Curious how you are still arguing with insurance about value but are busy scrapping it?
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I havent but intend to. I have (or had) a PD150 lined up for this reason but sadly didnt get it before the lockdown has made it pretty much impossible for now.
Driveshafts and probably a bit of chassis leg trimming will be the biggest headache, probably worth going wide track using GTI bottom joints as well but i am only guessing, i was going to use my black tdi wreck for the trial fit before chopping anything about on another lupo. You need the N75 stuff for the turbo and might need some engine loom as well. gearbox use a 5 speeder from a suitable TDI with decent ratios.
Later PDs use different ecu so stick to the earlier ones on same ecu type as the diesel lupos to avoid extra hassles.
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Put the battery on slow charge over night, dont use the alternator to charge a flat battery it will stress the alternator. Once it is fully charged then see what it does. or swap a known good battery on as Rich said.
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If the engine itself is idling and running normally (look in vcds for idle speed etc) then look for things knocking on the subframe, like exhaust, power steering pipes, loose / worn gearbox mount, heatshield, gear change cables etc.
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1 hour ago, weslangdon said:
Silly money, get a 1.4 TDI
Agreed, looks like wrong bootlid as well.
Mk2 meant the oil pump / balance shaft chain not the timing belt btw....
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Not sure about Fox but pretty sure lupo is 17mm for the steering balljoint nut and 22mm for the track rod lock nut, I used 7/8 spanner as dont have a 22mm open ended one for that or else use adjustable spanner etc.
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Make sure the door drain holes are clear as well. Also if you park on a steep enough slope the rain pools in the door sill and gets over the rubber seals.
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Tow bars (at least the two i have) are made to mount to factory holes, no drilling required and having towed my 6x4 Ivor Williams trailer with about 150kg in it (so about the 400kg rated limit) with my tdi it was totally fine.
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Stick welder is a no go unless he has mad skills and very thin rods especially so as there will be gaps to fill as well most likely.
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Weld in a new flexi? I used this on my TDI (trimmed about 10mm off it though) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weld-On-50mm-X-200mm-Exhaust-Flexible-Joint-Repair-Flexi-Pipe-tube-Flex/253949451538
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Fuse 46 on the TDI though.....
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There might be some adjustment on it if the play isnt much.
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Sprayed fabric goes hard and unpleasant to the touch, The GTI headlining is very soft and tactile (assuming the black one in my 1.4S is a GTI headlining).
I'll have a go at something with my TDI sunroof headlining, not sure what yet though....
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Should be a diagram on the back of the fuse holder cover. Otherwise:
https://knigaproavto.ru/shemy/en/volkswagen/lupo/25-volkswagen-lupo-fuse-box-diagram.html
Fuse 45 - 15A.
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When you posted the video i thought it sounded fine but that was playing it on a laptop speakers.
I've got some lovely rattles on my TDI, exhaust doesnt fit very well after i welded in a new flexi for the mot, the heat shield is rattling on the back box and the gearbox dog bone mount is very very soft so the engine rocks around too much to compound the exhaust problem. Am I bothered? Not enough to do anything to it until i get under it to fix something else.
There's a heat shield at the front that can rattle on the gear selector cables too, not sure if it is the same for SDI though.
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Thats the one i was interested in, it sold for around £2k, then got flipped at twice the price minus the extra engines and wheels (the link above ) and now is being flipped on again for twice that. Ridiculous.
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The Cup cars dont have VIN numbers afaik (well the one i was interested in a few years back didnt anyway and that sold for about £2.5k with spare engines and wheels) so they will just be track toys or go in a museum if they have good history. The one here is just being converted to 1.8T. Way over price, as is the white one for 16k.
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if it is only when hot then probably clutch side of things, but the pedal box is weak on these so if the pedal is sitting lower than normal look for cracked pedal box. Get someone to press the pedal while you listen to see if it is in the car or on gearbox end.
Unhook cable from clutch arm and see if it moves in the cable outer smoothly without snagging (and also when hot).
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If you have to pay people to do it then it will be cheaper to just find and buy one already done. If you can do most of it yourself then it's going to be your time and the parts plus whatever you have to pay to get done.
If you get a donor car and sell off most of the bits you wont need then the cost will be very small, plus you hear the engine running instead of trying to get an unknown engine running.
DIY with donor = a few hundred quid, otherwise as said above it will be a few thousand.
Strange grinding noise video attached
in Volkswagen Lupo
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Cant play the video on chrome, it says no, then i click back and a black square where the video should be shows with a loading swirl on it then immediately disappears.
Where is the noise? Front back, centre, one side? Check all the usual suspects as already mentioned, plus back plates, and brake pads. Had brake pads separate from the metal backing once on a different car so they rattled and buzzed in the caliper and it sounded exactly like a knackered wheel bearing until you pressed the brake and it went away.