T5POL

Do you mean dampening adjustable aswell as height adjustable? If you are, I can personally recommend KW Variant 2 coilovers. The best modification I ever carried out on my GTi. Very good quality stuff, they do not rust and are very user friendly. I also changed my front bushes for powerflex bushes at the same time. If you are only looking for height adjustable then I would recommend the KW Variant 1 coilovers. Same technology and materials that went into the Variant 2, minus the ability to adjust the dampness. With any type of coilovers or suspension kit on the GTi I would not recommend going lower than around 45mm. All my opinion of course. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Try 195/40/17s. They are your only bet. Expensive tyres aswell!! If the alloys are wider than 6.5"/7" then you will still have problems. Unless you run a fair bit of camber and I am not sure if it is possible to change this on the lupo.

Custom Code at Eurotek in Surrey. Not from experience, but I have heard alot of good things about Custom Code and these guys seem to be your closest agents.

Try and get either a Tony Law exhaust or a Blueflame exhaust. Both are custom and are superb quality! Regarding the spoiler, not sure on manufacturers, but you have to watch that you get one with the centre cut out so that it does not foul your bee-sting aerial.

You are also running 195 width tyres as oppose to 205's style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

I take it they are 4 stud and the PCD is 100mm with the correct bore? You are going to have major issues with rubbing on standard arches. The GTi is ET43 and these are ET35. They are more than likely a wider alloy aswell. Personally I would never go above a 15" alloy on a GTi. Ruins the handling etc otherwise. But to answer your question, yes I think they would look nice on the car, but do not think they will fit at all.

It connects the bottom arms together, just checked.

Took a while style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Same old story. I was in no rush at the time though, as at that time I couldnt get it anywhere else. I can get pics for you. IIRC it connects the lower arms together, would have to check though. Its anodised red, but has a few battle scars as I was running quite low on the coilovers. I also had to remove my sump guard/splash guard as it was in the way. Venom are now recognised distributors.

Wiechers lower front strut brace from AAT. Cost £50 delivered. Even with my coilovers and poly bushes I still noticed a difference. The best £50 I spent on the suspension! The turn is alot more precise and direct and you can feel a difference straight away. I opted for a lower front one for the reasons detailed above about having to drill holes in suspension turrets.

http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?sho...p;hl=difference

It has been previously mentioned/discussed that it should be done at 40k miles so that would make the belt change around 65k km.

Happy Birthday. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":thumbup:" border="0" alt="thumbup.gif" />

http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?sho...7&hl=dastek http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?sho...astek&st=20 No mention of going into safe mode in either post here Noddy. Lupo Charged actually recommends it if staying N/A which is what would have happened style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Plan died when I worked out the power/pound gained style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> If you spent £5000 on a car with a turbo? the possibilities style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Got a company car, but also kept all of the contact details of all the companies I need and I have a brand new Bastuck exhaust and a Raceland 4-2-1 manifold at home, incase I get the itch again style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> thats a bit lazy. 1. Dastek Unichip from Dastek. 2. Schrick cams from Badger5. 3. BMC from anywhere you like. 4. Tarox Sport Japan 6 pot kit from motorsport world (they have stopped doing the 4 pot kit) Its the Polo GTi kit. 5. Manifold was from the group buy. 6. Wheels I like are Comp mo's from Compomotive. 7. 200/100 cell cat was from Top Gear IIRC. 8. Bastuck exhaust from Regal. I am sure you can pump some of the above into a search engine. Thats about it. Then you would have to find a Dastek dealer and also a garage to fit the exhaust/manifold/cat that you are happy with. Think thats about it. Please dont go trying all of this based upon what I have said. I researched all of this and this is what I found. It is better that you do your own research and be happy within yourself with what you want to do. This is only based on my opinion, and my findings. I never went ahead with doing the cams, and everything is based on research only.

Here are my findings: The cams are £540 delivered to my door. An adjustable pulley is £100, Cam swing is £300 ish and a remap is £440. Thats Around £1380. Then £400 for exhaust, £175 for exhaust Manifold (Which are no longer made), £130 for 200/100 Cell Cat, BMC around £140 and fitting for the lot, £150. So thats roughly £1400 + £1000 = £2400 roughly. I have been advised to get an adjustable FPR (Fuel pressure regulator) to increase fuelling and may need uprated springs should I wish to go for them. Thats another £200 ish for FPR and springs. Also should I want a gas flowed head, this can be anything upto £1000 depending on valve sizes etc. I wont bother with adding this into the calculation though, but the option is there. I am now at roughly £2600. I already have KW variant 2 coilovers, Wiechers lower strut brace and powerflex bushes. These were about £1200 all in. Then I am not happy with my brakes, so I would then have to upgrade these. I have 2 options for this, 4 pots or 280mm G60 upgrade. I would want the 4 pots personally as they look so much better and already come with discs, pads and braided hoses. Theres £1000. I need new wheels as I cannot get enough caliper clearance with the Bathursts, so thats another £500. At the moment I am standing at £2600 + £1200 + £1000 + £500 = £5300 roughly. I reckon, with a BMC, Schrick 256 cams, springs, 4-2-1 manifold, 200/100 cell cat, exhaust system and remap I could see a guaranteed 140 bhp @ wheels. Maybe more but I like to be realistic. Anything above this would be a bonus and I dont want to get carried away with it. The car would be able to handle the power and also stop with that power. The above would be my ideal lupo GTi. I spent 4 months researching and sourcing where I would get the parts. Just to add the parts are the best of quality and I have no doubt that you could cut corners and make savings here and there, but I wanted to do it right. Needless to say, I got a new, better paid job. And I got a company car and saved myself about £5500 style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> The above is only based on my findings, research and my opinion. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

There are a few advantages of the Cast Iron block over Aluminium Alloy Blocks. Cast Iron have better sound deadening properties, a lower melting point and have better fluidity than steel/Aluminium castings. Cast iron can also be cast very thin walled which reduces weight of the motor block, whilst retaining component strength. They are also cheaper to manufacture. And are less prone to corrosion. As with everything there are advantages to having an Aluminium Block aswell. They are inherently lighter than Iron however lubricants can reduce strength and Aluminium has a poor wear resistance.

Yes however I am not sure how VVT affects this or how it comes into play... Could again only find out by going ahead with the installation of cams. And with it being a variable inlet, you can put an adjustable pulley on the exhaust to make it a variable at the exhaust aswell. VW V-TEC style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" />

The standard cams are 205 inlet / 215 exhaust and the Schricks are 256 inlet / 244 exhaust. so you can see it is quite a jump. Some of the newer VW engines blocks are Aluminium Alloy where as for example the new Golf GT Twincharger has a Cast Iron Block. Good thing being the cast block is stronger.

Uprating parts is purely a precautionary and proactive measure. For how little they cost, it would be something I would want to carry out anyway. Yeah that is coincidence that 256 is the degree of cams for the micra. But you would have to look at both the inlet and exhaust of the standard cam and compare it to the uprated cams before you could call it mild. IIRC the standard inlet and exhaust for the GTi is not high and jumping to the 256 cams is a fair jump. In terms of the limit I couldnt pluck a figure out of thin air as it would be dependant upon where the uprated cams have pushed the power band to on the rev range and adjust it accordingly. Could only find that out during a remap.

I reckon a remap on top of these three mods would yield another 5 bhp. Bringing the Air:Fuel back in line. Mid range my bros car was running quite rich. Lean it off a bit more by bringing the Air:fuel back in line would sort it out. Next stage would be Shrick 256 cams, uprated valve springs and a rev limit raised to where the peak power is shifted to by these cams. Then a remap after the cams are fitted. Would make for a nippy GTi.

I am The Stigs brother incase your wondering style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> A few things can alter the reading from the RR. The ambient temperature, air pressure and humidity shall affect the temperature of air drawn in by the engine and the density of air drawn in. With RR2 as I mentioned, this was done in an open workshop and the affects shall be greater than with RR3, since RR3 was done in an enclosed chamber. So the readings shall vary greatly depending on what time of year etc the run is done. Tyre pressures and tyre wear can also effect the result, gear ratios can affect the result (Particularly as GTis can be 5 or 6 speed), as can putting your foot on the brake whilst the RR calculates the coast down loss, if that particular RR does their readings this way. There are other things, which I do not know as I am not an operator, that can affect the reading. But I am happy with one of my local Rolling Road facilities which is the main thing. Here is a useless piece of information; on the same day at RR2 my bro and I tested our lupo GTis side by side. One was standard, the other had a BMC and the one with the BMC gained 2 bhp @ the wheels and negligable torque. This was the same day, at the same time with the same ambient temps, air humidity etc. Only variables being tyre pressure and condition of engine internals as the one with the BMC had more than double the mileage of the standard one.

Not sure if its still available but in the for sale section, Dub Love has/had his for sale at £4.5k.

I voted for it only, was the first raven blue vote. Dont worry about that. I am interested in the poll aswell and would not sabotage it or spam it.

Yes, why? The poll is for GTi owners, no mention of having to be a member in title/poll. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":shades:" border="0" alt="shades.gif" />