mysterylemon

Just gave mine it's first proper clean since I've owned it (November). I had already seen some rust on the roof when I bought it but spotted a fair bit around the car now I've been right up close to it. Mostly just bubbling but so far I've seen... Bubbling on drivers front archBubbling on pass rear archBubbling along the length of both sillsNumerous bubble patches along both roof guttersBubbling around tailgate handleSeems it will be rust that kills these cars off. The sills are my main concern. Bubbling under the paint usually means the metal behind isn't in great shape. Guess I will just have to wait and see what the MOT testers think. Shame, as even though the paintwork on mine isn't in the best condition, it does still look nice once clean. Once the rust starts coming through, it will look a right mess... Ah well. Maybe i'll rat it out

Done it. Wouldn't want anyone messing me up

Quick update. Been over 2 weeks now and not once has the car failed to start. It's also starting better in general. Great success! So if you have intermittend starting issues with a fuel gauge that doesn't work (or rarely works), replace the coolant temp sensor.

Quick update on this as I hate it when going through searches and never find a conclusion to a problem... Finally got round to fitting a new engine temp sensor to the Lupo the other day and the starting problem, that had become an almost daily occurance, has stopped. I'm not 100% convinced myself yet as the problem would often come and go but in situations I know it would have happened before (nipping into a shop after driving around a bit (petrol station etc)), it hasn't done it since replacing the sensor. I'm calling success on this one so far, even just for the bonus that I now have a working temp gauge. The Lupo also does seem to be running smoother and starting easier from cold and hot regardless.

Double post ftw. Thanks iphone...

It could stop the car from starting if the ecu thinks its cold as it would flood the engine, much like trying to start a warm car with the choke out...it just won't. Makes sense in my mind anyway as it starts by pumping the pedal which is not immobiliser related. Could be the signal to the ecu is working even though the one to the dial is not. Obviously faulty anyway.

It could stop the car from starting if the ecu thinks its cold as it would flood the engine, much like trying to start a warm car with the choke out...it just won't. Makes sense in my mind anyway as it starts by

Yup that's the one. I've ordered it online. Not a mega cheap one (start from £4.50!) but one from a brand. Not bothered about genuine parts. They are just rebranded parts from other manufacturers anyway. Gauge hasn't worked at all on the way to work today, pulled into the car park with the car nice and warm but it still restarted fine... So no closer to a definite solution. Will replace the sensor anyway and see what happens after. The gauge working would be a nice bonus anyway! Guessing I have to drain the cooling system to fit it. Not convinced doing what the person in that link did is a good idea. Will likely introduce air locks to the system...

I *think* I've cracked it. Did some googling on warm starting issues and came across a number of people with exactly the same symptoms as me. Further into the thread, people started asking if their temp gauge works or not as that would indicate whether the engine temp sensor is working or not, and if it isnt working, could flood the engine when warm, which is exactly what i'm getting! Funnily enough, my temp sensor has been intermittent since I got the car. On and off all the time. Never thought to relate it to starting problems though and just assumed the dial was dodgy. Defo worth looking into anyway. Going to wait and see if the gauge is working when I get to work tomorrow. If it isnt and the car wont restart, i'll assume it's that sensor at fault.

Just can't talk to any if the ecus. Finds the cable fine but fails trying to communicate with the car. Carport works perfectly so it's not the cable at fault..

It's not the cable that's at fault. The software in using is free so limited. The software everyone recommends (vagcom/vdcs-lite) won't talk to my car and I'm not buying the full version if I don't have to..

Is there anyway to clear fault codes on a lupo without vagcom or similar? I've got a cable but can not delete codes with the software, only read, unless I upgrade to the full version. Vdsc lite or whatever it's called cant talk to my car so I've been using carport which is faultless but limited on the free version. Google seemed to suggest disconnecting the battery for 30mins to clear them but this hasn't worked. Is there any other free way to clear fault codes?

Fault is still there. Went for a whole week with no problems then had it a number of times yesterday and my partner has had it today whilst driving it. Seem to have worked out a bit of a pattern now. Defo happens more when the car is warm. Usually if I've driven the car and stopped, say to pop into a shop, come back out and it wont start. Pumping the pedal gets it going but it's almost like trying to start a flooded engine. Not had symptoms like this since driving with a choke! Seems fine, every time if the car has been left to cool for atleast 30 mins or so. It doesnt happen every time you stop the car though. Anyone else got any ideas what to look at? Pretty much 100% sure its not immobliser related. Makes no sense for it to be. Both keys are obviously either broken or fine, so I'm assuming fine. If it was the immobiliser or a key, it wouldnt start at all and would cut out whilst driving too. So something mechanical that causes it to not restart after warming up... any ideas?

KAs a good little cars. Supremely chuckable but totally gutless engines. Far better handling in standard form than any Lupo (bar maybe the GTI). As mentioned though, the issue is rust. Rust, more rust and lots more rust. Lupo's aren't immune though. Mine's going on the roof, a bit of bubbling on one of the rear arches and a bit around the tailgate handle. Nothing structural though which is the problem with the KA. It's all structural. Sills esspecially. The KA engine is a 1.3 block from the stone age. It's reasonably economical but terribly slow. Simple to work on though. The engine range in the Lupo is far more modern and atleast there is a choice. The 1.6 from the sport KA is a better, more modern engine but commands a higher price tag for both car purchase and insurance. Interior on the KA is very basic. It's very dated, although a comfy place to be. The Lupo far excells in this area with a very nice, modern interior. Personally I would go for the Lupo out of the two but it's down to personal preference. Both are good cars in their own ways.

Quick update.. I never got around to trying to remove the fault codes but have been using the other key for the last week or so. Not a single fault. Started perfectly the last week and no sign of the previous issue. Starting to look towards the key now due to another thing I noticed on the fault codes. I over looked it originally as it didnt seem something that could be related but it could potentially point to a dodgy key. As well as the immobiliser intermittently not recognising the key (why it wouldnt start), the central locking would intermittently not recognise the key. I dont have the code to hand but it was a fault on the central locking ECU stating along the lines of "error reading key. Intermittent" It didnt ever not let me into the car and wouldnt have thought the door barrels would read the key either but it would point towards the key being faulty too. Gonna give it another week and if I still havent had a faulty start, switch back to the other key and see if the fault returns