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whitie

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Everything posted by whitie

  1. Ahhh, I thought we were on the subject of how to lower the CR to run forced induction whilst maintaing the correct squish. The above AFH was out of a P reg 6n polo, so quite early and the forged pistons I am using are JE, who have quite a good reputation from what I have read. So how mechanicaly similar are Felicia's to polos, i.e. do they share the 6n chassis? I have found a standard Lupo GTi handels much better than a 6n 16v or 6n2 GTi, so yours must be a right kart! Also, what engine do you run in the Felicia, AFH or newer valver?
  2. Would this not increase the CR by placing the piston higher? Thats abit shocking, any particualr makes? IIRC all FSi engines have forged pistons too, with the relatively small 1.4 producing 178ps surely extra strength must have been engineered in. I look forward to the VAG self study pack to arrive as soon as the vehicles start turning up. I also chose the AFH due to the independant cam gears and a larger choice of cam specifications. Do you mean dowels on the block deck? Mine does, if you can make then out in the picture below, quite small border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> P.S. Did I read that you race Felicias?
  3. not at all, glad to read something a bit more technical than 'will this K&N give me more power' ! Interesting point regarding squish, I am currently building an NA valver and have used forged pistons with rods and crank from a 1.6 16v, when compared with the older 1.4 16v (AFH) con-rods (which is the block and head I am using) as found in the polo, the newer rods look better. I have also heard the polo 6n rods are made of plasticine. I had had aspirations to build a similar engine in the future with the addition of forced induction, I would have used steel rods and perhaps a steel crank, but apart from lowering the CR with the pistons it did not enter my head of the squish concequences. So what would be the solution, a crown designed with a higher circumference edge and an inverted dome centre? I take it the higher pressure involved in FI would not induce the swirl needed? Perhaps the new range of small block FSi engines will provide stronger internals, I have a particular interest in the forthcoming turbo/supercharged 1.4 16v.
  4. How come you dont recomend it, if you dont mind me asking? Unless you mean forged pistons would be far better to handle the pressure possibly run at that CR?
  5. sorry, havent been on here for ages! any further progress with yours? My bottom end is built for the practice full build and I have just recieved my head back from Catcams via QEP. It came with uprated cams, vernier pullies and springs, however; the technician at catcams said the tappets QEP supplied them with my head (suposidly meant for my head and made by the largest hydaulic tappet manufactures in the world) are too shallow, allowing movement at high revs, the manufactures wont admit it so Im having to have 'lash shims sent with the spring caps that still havent arrived. Should be here next week. Then I have the small problem of a month to complete my BTEC and NVQ, so the engine and garage are on hold till end of june! QEP gave me 25% off as I sent my head so they could measure up, the price I was told originally was £375 for cams and I think the catcams website says £80-90 a pulley, thats plus VAT and less my discount. P.S. my engine is the polo 6n 1.4 16v, code AFH, so nothing like yours, Im sure they cater for yours though
  6. lol, bought the car in may '03 got the 1.4 16v AFH in june '04 got the TBs in july '05 bottom end should be built by april '06.....Oh crap!!!! aiming for inters but with less than 3months, it aint looking hopefull!
  7. what breakers would that be? Any polo/lupo 16v hubs about there? ta
  8. aye, been reading that thread and posted, looks well. As on his he has vvt, does yours? If so you would need the cam position sensor still? As for the wiring, didnt I read you had access to ELSA and so the wiring diagrams? If so then Im sure you would be able to wire up the current loom to an aftermarket ECU and only loose the imobiliser, thats what I plan to do. The mileage stays with the clocks (with a polo anyway) and the new ECU would take the engine speed input and output a reading into the clocks. As for mine, well the winter has put off garage building so Iv still no where to pull the 8v out and the valver build is currently taking place in my kitchen! Ordering some big end bolts this week and I should have the bottom end built by the next week. The head however is in Belgium with Catcams having the valve train measured for a set of cams and vernier pullies, no idea on their time scale....zzzzz Been talking to some local tuning companies and the favourd cheap managent is DTA, £600+VAT for everything, was looking at Emerald but Dave Walker is abit far away for me. Where are you based BTW?
  9. very nice, any pictures of the brake servo take-off on the inlet manifold, or the manifold before it was fitted? interesting way of construction P.S. How much was the sausage filter and from where?
  10. Hi Tigz, long time no speak! I see your making far quicker progress with your TB project than me, my engine is still in peices! Read all 17 pages of this, glad you discovered the toothed ignition wheel on the flywheel side of the crank. Also, arent all the sensors you need (bar the TP) in your current loom, so all you need is a loom plug from which ever ECU company you choose? Whats your latest decision on management? Remap of the OE ECU? If not then most ECUs will work with the OE VAG Bosch sensors. Also, earlier in the post I saw you were looking to use a cam speed sensor, does your engine not already have one, thought all of those type of 16v did, inder the top plastic cover? As for the small matter of the crank deforming its bearing surface if you did remove it for whatever reason, you could always swap the block for a black painted cast iron which came on the earlier engines with the same head, at the same time you could use a 1.6...... Good luck, hope to see this finished, wish mine was going into a lupo!
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