Trout13

Already done that, but it has dropped again and I noticed that the clutch pedal is now about an inch lower than the brake. Pedal box??

Thanks for that, gentle heat with a hot air gun and a push with a bit of wooden 2 by 2 did the trick.

2001 1.4L 44K The bite point is about 1/4 of an inch from the floor and creaks when letting the clutch out, the pedal is the same height as the brake pedal. So is the clutch on the way out or is it the pedal box. How can you eyeball the pedal box? do you have to take the steering column off or can you see it from somewhere else. If I do manage to see it what are the signs it needs replaced? Any advice greatly received.

My daughter has put a large dent in the corner of the rear bumper. I thought I could pop it out but when I took the bumper off and tried I couldnt budge it. I put it back on with the bump still there but someone suggested heating it first (boiling water/hot air gun) then popping it out. Does anyone think it worth a try or has anybody done anything similar repairs? or is it a new bumper? Cheers Trout13

I looked on here a while ago for links to replace the timing belt and water pump and there was 2 good links/topics. However I cannot access them today as there seems to be a problem with a driver for the data area. Does anyone have a link/info for replacing the timing belt? Any idea where I report this fault? Cheers Trout13

I have a 2001 Lupo ~40K, the problem is that clutch's bite point is very low and the clutch pedal(clutch cable) has 2-3 inches of play before there is any resistance. Should I adjust the clutch cable to take up the 2-3" of play to move the bite point up? There is no margin for error when putting into/changing gear e.g. the clutch needs to be right to the floor. The pedal is the same height as the brake. I read the posts and I suppose there is a possibility it may be the pedal box. How do you check if it is? I had a quick look but couldn't work out how you could see it. Do you have to remove some panels? Any suggestions welcome.

I have only ever had one key for my lupo so went to the VW garage for a spare one. The car does not have central locking and the key has no battery but does have a little chip inserted under the red bit of plastic. Anyway £150 quoted for new key. Is there a cheaper way of geeting a key. I have been warned to avoid ebay vendors.

Anyone had any experience removing sub frame from steering rack, interested in how to get the bolts off as the nuts are turning. Is it possible to get a socket etc onto the nut?

I had a look at a few steering racks on the web and it looks like there is just a locating hole for a bolt and the bracket is too thin for an internal thread. Also there is definitely a nut turning at the top of the steering rack which is in a recessed space so you cannot get a socket etc on it. Cheers anyway

Found out what was causing the cracking noise. The 2 bolts on the rhs which attach the sub frame to the the steering box are loose. When I go to tighten them the nut at the top turns as well, so I cannot tighten them. So does anyone know how to get them out and should there be a lug or something to stop the nut turning. Anyone got any ideas how to fix this problem? Any advice appreciated

Thanks for the info

I notice when people are buying a timing belt kit that they buy a water pump as well. Is it common practice to fit a water pump when replacing the timing belt?

CV joints are okay, but thanks anyway.

Recently purchased a 51 Lupo 1.4 and all is fine except that the steering makes a cracking noise at distinct points when turning the steering wheel through a full turn. It does it wether the engine is on or off. Strangely it disappears when it is jacked up. A mechanic friend had a quick look and he thinks it could be either the tie rods, track rod ends or the steering box. He is going to check under the gaiters on the steering rack when he gets time. Anyone had a similar problem?? Cheers Trout13