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lupo 1.7sdi

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Posts posted by lupo 1.7sdi

  1. First I apologize for my English, but I hope you'll understand:).
    There are several possible causes for your problem:

    • EGR valve blocked  open or which closes not ok. The causes for this are:
      - clogging of EGR (rare cases): for check,  connect a piece of fuel hose to EGR and simulate the vacuum ( pull air with mouth); the EGR's diaphragm must move and when release the vacuum you must hear a "clamp"
      - vacuum when is not necessary. For this is responsible N18 solenoid. Check the air filter ( arrow 1 ) if it allows air to pass (if not, vacuum will permanently be present at the EGR valve, this will permanently be more or less open and you can't accelerate the engine over 2-2.5k). Second check the N18: disconnect the power plug ( arrow 2 ) and remove the hose from EGR valve ( arrow 3) ; start the engine and at idle should not be vacuum at hose of EGR.That apply 12v to the N18 solenoid by means of 2 wire directly to the battery ( polarization is not important but be careful not make any short circuitit is recommended  put a fuse on a wire ). In this situation the vacuum must be present

    DSC07712-2.JPG

    • intake manifold flap change-over valve -N239 blocked on closed The role of this flap is:at low engine speeds the vacuum in the intake manifold is not sufficient to ensure correct functioning of the exhaust gas recirculation system.Therefore to increase vacuum the throttle valve remains closed up to approx. 2200 rpm after starting the engine. For check: remove the intake hose and observe if you increase the engine speed to over 3000 rpm the flap will be completely open. If the flap  is not closed at all times at idle is not an issue.

    DSC08327.JPG

    • obstructed intake manifold, like this
    • DSC08334.JPG
    • DSC08337.JPG

      to clean the intake holes I have used this home made tool and after this  I aspirated the dirt fallen on valves

    • DSC08343.JPG

    • a combination of the above causes
    I do not remember exactly how I removed the intake box, but I seem to remember that I rotated to right first, I'm not sure.

    The most common method of EGR delete (if the EGR is not blocked on open) is to remove the hose (arrow 3) and plugging it with a screw.

  2. I checked my sdi and can not lift the throttle pedal.

    There are are two types of accelerator pedal position sender on SDI. If you have ECU with 80 pins (ECU with a single connector), accelerator pedal position sender is like this

    http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/power_unit/diesel_direct_injection_and_glow_plug_system_up_to_09.99/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/repairing_diesel_direct_injection_system/repairing_accelerator_mechanism/

    If you have 121-pin control unit (ECU with two connectors), accelerator pedal position sender is like this

    http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/engine_mechanics/3-cyl._diesel_engine_mechanics/fuel_supply_gas_operation/removing_and_installing_parts_of_fuel_supply_system/adjusting_pedal_position_sender/

    My sdi has 121-pin control unit

  3. the coolant temperature sender has 2 sensors inside. one sends informations to engine control unit (about this write in ssp) and one sends informations to dash.

    If you want to know if the coolant temperature sender is gone you need a VCDS and compare the temperature displayed in Engine section with the temperature displayed in Instruments section. Or, if you have a multimeter (ohmmeter) you can measure the resistance of the 2 sensors and compare.

    But I still belive that your problem is the thermostat (I had this problem some time ago).

  4. I think your alternator is not ok. Charge voltage must be over 14v (between 14 and 14.5).

    Also check fuses above the battery (see picture)

    Relating to battery, on the negative terminal is usually marked the production date: a group of two digits indicate the week, and another group of two digits indicate the year (my battery is from 2002).

    fuse11.jpg

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