Sarahs Lupo
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Posts posted by Sarahs Lupo
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So just got back from a drive.
Reset the codes but no change to the driveability. Same symptoms just no engine light. But I know it will be back.
Scanned the car again and got the three codes as shown on the image.
That's with the engine light out.
I changed the fuse as mentioned but had no effect.
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3 minutes ago, mk2 said:
Pull the egr vac hoses out... (and block the ends so they don't suck air in). That'll give you a smidge more power.
Not sure I want to pull things apart to make it faster. I just want it to run 100% correct. I have a 3.0turbo for speed
Just took it out and engine light is back on..so gonna get the codes again now.
I'll replace the fuse as said above before.
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3 hours ago, Skezza said:
Does it actually run?
Oh yea. Apart from being very loud and 50% power, it's all great! The engine light has been on since I bought it and that was because of the faults.
Literally just plugged in my OBD reader this morning and found some faults but I knew that, and cleared them. The engine light has gone out for now, but two faults remain. The engine is the same, loud and slow.
That's the only issue.
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4 hours ago, mk2 said:
I generally use a multimeter on a car to check power volts (typically around 12.5v not running and 14.1 running) and continuity (beep function). If a circuit is meant to be powered, it's usually at 12 or 5v. Sensors generate an output between 1 to 4.5v. Anything else is suspect and can be caused by a dodgy contact or switch.
Checking a wire is actually getting power through is best done by connecting a meter probe one end and at the other. So when there's power at point A, and nothing at B, you can check the wire using the beeper. No beep means a break. Also a good way to check for shorts between a wire that shouldn't be earthed and you might get an earth because of a break in insulation or something rubbing through.
I guess the trick is to find where the power is coming from and work your way from the source. Battery to fuse panel, usually ok. So working from the fuse terminal to the next point along the chain, then a switch, then a relay, another switch and so on. So somewhere there might be a loose joint or a corroded contact preventing power getting through.
Ok so are you saying take out a relay, and stick the probes into the holes?
Literally have no clue haha!
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On 10/10/2019 at 10:34 PM, mk2 said:
100% not the ECU. Sounds like the B+ line supplying most of the engine loom. Which like you say comes via a relay, controlled by ignition relay and ig switch... you need to get in behind the fuse panel. Try swapping the relays first, or at least getting a multimeter out. Could be ig sw, which is also a common failure.
pics please!
Ok so I got myself a multi meter, I have ordered a new relay just to be sure.
I will also replace the fuse as above.
Are there any guides to checking the connections with the multi meter.
I have done many mechanical things on a car but never electricals.
Thanks for the help.
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do you have those pics please might attempt this.
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Hello!
I am a new but old member, I just got myself a little run about lupo!
I haven't been on this forum since 2008 when I bought my first one!
Im going to start this off and keep it updated for the cars journey through my ownership.
It's a 2004 1.7SDI. Perfect for daily workhorse life. I got it of a great family who had lost time and money trying to diagnose the faults.
To kick things off, I wil upload a picture of the faults.
Apparently it could need a new ECU but could be the relay 109 that I have been researching. The faults were cleared and came back each time.
Any help appreciated!
LUPO 1.7SDI
in Volkswagen Lupo
Posted
I'll have a nosey tomorrow in the engine bay.
The fuse box looked absolutely fine. All fuses looked normal and all pushed in lol.
I'll have an inspect of the relay area tomorrow too.
I'll keep this updated. Won't stop until it's found