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Sarahs Lupo

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Posts posted by Sarahs Lupo

  1. Just looking around the engine and notice that the egr valve doesn't have clips holding the pipes on. Are they supposed to? 

    The other end does? Must have been taken off to replace the egr valve that was potentially one of the faults here. 

    Screenshot_20191019_104114_com.android.gallery3d.thumb.jpg.51aa66d088d45d95937753cd96048075.jpg

  2. 24 minutes ago, mk2 said:

    That wiring diagram shows you the places you could check... you can see how if a relay were faulty, large swathes of the loom are without power.

    I'm having a hard time decifiering that pdf. 

    I was going to check a common earth point between the error codes I have got. 

    Can anyone read that diagram? 

    Thanks as always 

  3. just an idea, since i have multiple codes that suggest open or short to ground.. 

    is there any common earth points i can check to see if they are the problem.

    concentrating on each fault code and chasing the wire doesn't seem a good idea if they all are saying short to ground???? 

    i took the battery off last night, and the battery tray. all looks good under it, so damp or rust. checkled the large earth cable that goes on the battery and at the metal work all looks good. so it cant be that.

    just an idea is there any other common earth/ground points? 

     

  4. 21 minutes ago, Rich said:

    As long as there is a physical connection it doesn't matter.

    I'd say zip ties but it wouldn't hold.

     

    Thanks. I will see what happens tomorrow. 

    I'll tape some needles on my probe. But I have very small cable ties too. 

     

  5. 33 minutes ago, Rich said:

    There's not enough voltage in the car to kill you.

    Stop being a pussy.

    Also I generally probe the back of the pins.

    Thanks for that I'll bear that in mind but just incase you didn't understand me,

    1) You didn't answer my question. Which tape? 

    2) I have never touched electrics before so unsure of the dangers of touching the battery for example 

    3) I'm testing the ECU socket so not idea about the "back of the pins"??????

     

    Appreciate the help. I will get to the bottom of this 

  6. 18 hours ago, Sarahs Lupo said:

    Ok I am trying to stick my multi meter into the ECU but the prongs are too thick. 

    Any suggestions?? 

    Thanks 

    This is what is stopping me checking the rest of the connections on the ECU - my probes are too thick...  i need some needle like ones

  7. 2 hours ago, lupo 1.7sdi said:

    Sorry, it is the expression of manual.  Not at the same time but one at a time

     

    you have to be careful, it's irreversible :D

    Ok so I will try contact 1 and socket 1 

    Then I try contact 1 and socket 2.. 

    That I can do. 

    I will test tomorrow then. 

     

  8. 1 hour ago, lupo 1.7sdi said:

    Also check this for EGR error

    Check wiring between test box and connector for open circuit using current flow diagram.
    Contact 1+ socket 1 + 2
    Contact 2+ socket 61
    Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ω

     

    Ok sorry for the idocy but how can I test this???

    I use my red probe on the contact 1 of the egr connection, and then stick my black probe into the ECU area on socket 1+2? 

    Am I being dumb here ??? How can I do 1 + 2 at the same time in the ECU ha

    I must be missing a few brain cells 

     

  9. 19 minutes ago, mk2 said:

    The egr control solenoid is below the left blue thing in your pic. The pipe from it goes to the egr valve to the left of the dip stick. 

    Where are you in the uk? One of us here maybe nearby... otherwise, might be a quick fix for an autoelectrician. 

    You need to check the feed from K46 in that diagram. The power goes through the k46 switch contact which powers everything.

    I'm in trowbridge so not far from the M4 

  10. 11 minutes ago, mk2 said:

    EGR valve sounds ok. You should see at least 11v on the plug to the EGR valve when it's operating.

    if you pop off the air pipe (fitted with the air temp sensor) between the air filter box and the EGR air choke valve, then start up, you should see the valve closed once it's idling (Make sure nothing gets sucked into it!). If you blip the throttle you should see it open then close again. If it stays open all the time, the EGR circuit to the valve isn't providing power to the choke solenoid. The choke valve operates using vacuum force/power (same as the EGR valve).

    I got a picture of my bay below.

    Not sure where the parts are your referring to. I know this is frustrating for you as it is for me! Haha! 

    Are you able to give me a hand over what's app or similar? 

    Gladly pay in beer tokens 😊

  11. So the first test was stick it in the egr valve. Now this registerd 15.9 ohms. 

     

    The second test of that apparently was 5V???? 

    I'm not entirely happy I did it right,

    I stuck the red lead from my machine onto the contact 1, and the black lead from my machine at the battery bottom there's a bolt. 

    That's where 5v got from with the ignition on??? 

     

  12. 1 hour ago, mk2 said:

    Yeah, the error message you get from the intake air temp says it. "High voltage". Means either the loom power rail or earth rail are loose or not connecting correctly. My hunch is still a relay, but could be ignition switch. Check the power voltage on the EGR solenoid connection. That may help, as it's easy to get to. 

    I have the relay on order so awaiting delivery, for that.

    Im very new to these cars and electrics. 

    I'll have to Google that. 

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