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Sarahs Lupo

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Posts posted by Sarahs Lupo

  1. On 9/30/2020 at 11:29 PM, SamPeters said:

    I am happy that you have enough money to buy the loop, but I can't understand why you saved money for such a long time when you could simply took a loan and simply pay the monthly payments and live this time getting high and not wasting so much time on only desiring about it but already use it, in my opinion, it's more logical to take a loan especially when using this site moneyexpert.com, here experts according to the sum you intend to buy and the time by which you are going to pay the loan, they help you to take the best loan at the lowest rate from the best bank. I always take a loan because I don't like to spend time-saving money. After all, there is no difference in saving apart from the salary to buy something or to pay this part as a monthly payment.

    i would hope after 8 years he has passed uni and got a new car haha

    • Haha 1

  2. 1 hour ago, C3peteo said:

    How much oil did you get out with the car at that angle? I need to change mine and usually go to a place with ramp but might just do it on the drive instead.

    I’d say all of it. 
    that oil pan is a 6L and it’s quiet full. If the factory comes with 4.7L as advised I’d say I haven’t missed any. Also the drain plug is at the back of it so at this angle it falls towards the drain which is perfect. 

  3. UPDATE:  

    Got a lot sorted today! 

    So managed to change the front Arb Links. Nice new rubber! 

    Oil and filter change too! Old stuff smelt of burgers haha! I’m convinced the previous owner ran this on veg. Not a problem just it’s smells like an old BBQ ha! 

    also took it to the local alignment place  

    I got new tyres fitted couple of months back as documented on here, and since then the car has chewed the outside edges of the tyres to nearly bald! So new front tyres needed again! Ffs. oh well let’s hope the alignment has now fixed this issue. 

    Anyway. Pics as always!!  








  4. 17 hours ago, mk2 said:

    Yeah, it's the yellow bit in this pic (From EGR how-to), below the word "tied".

    breather pipe divert.jpg

    I'd check the output using VCDS before changing it. Might be ok. 

    I did check before and the coolant was the correct temp for the engine. But the dial on the dash is wrong/faulty. 
    It’s also using a little coolant every week so I’m hoping they are linked. 

    there are no leaks that I can see

  5. Have done a search but cant get the answer i need.

    I want to replace the coolant Temperature Sensor. 

    i need to know where it is... and what is the correct one.

    A picture would be ideal! 

    like i said i have tried searching but getting nowhere. 

    2004 1.7 SDI reg: OE04 LLN


  6. Just like to keep this updated:


    Car hasnt changed just wonderfully reliable! 

    Gonna do an oil change, filter, and replace the arb links tomorrow! Should make it sound a little less DERV! 

    engine cover needs to go back on too just cant fathem how to do it .. i think some of the rubber bits are missing to locate it.. 


    anyway i hope everyone else is doing fine

  7. so been 10 days and havent had any issues so far! Maybe the battery was on its way out! 

    Not much else to report. still using the car - still have a full rear brake kit to go on.. 


    just need some nice weather 

  8. On 8/14/2020 at 1:11 PM, mk2 said:

    Never removed the switch from the rear, but it does look possible. I'd strip everything away first, including the steering wheel. Adds only an extra 20 mins work, but makes access so much easier. If you succeed, please post a pic from behind the mech in pieces! :)

    Just had a thought- @Sarahs Lupo had a similar problem about a year ago, with it cutting out... what was the cause of it, as I can't remember?! (Or may have been someone else).

    not sure.

    i have had ECU trouble from the start and other issues, lately i had issues starting once a week, but new battery seems to have fixed it 


  9. Update: 

    I have sourced a new battery for the blue beast. 
    The CCA value is greater too which should help in starting it in the cold come the winter. 

    the old one was from uni part and can’t even buy it now so it probably needed it at some point. 

    I will see if this helps the issue. 

    • Like 1

  10. 23 hours ago, Ian Daly said:

    I failed miserably, falling at the first fence, I took off the steering column cowl, the parcel shelf beneath the wheel and unbolted the fuse box, I then looked at removing the ignition switch, no go, interference fittings and no obvious way of getting them off, I've now booked it in to have it done, I'll let you all know what was what. 


    Nice. Thanks. 

  11. i got my 1.7 SDI for £400 and had 145k on the clock.. i still test drove it, and expected it to have the servicing and owners history etc.. just because its on the cheaper end of the car market doesnt mean it has to be a shed. do some research and go prepared. its an old car its going to have problems


  12. Just as I talk about it. It happens today! 

    I have two videos so I hope it can help. 

    The first is trying to start the car. Note the battery voltages so obviously it’s dropped. 


    the second video is once my other car is connected by cables. 
    Few seconds and the voltage shoots up and can be started straight away. 
    ( Excuse my dad yelling haha ) 

    Can this be a case of a crap battery?? 
    Or more sinister? 

    • Like 1

  13. 37 minutes ago, mk2 said:

    Yeah. If you turn the ignition switch slowly clockwise from off (but not cranking), you'll notice ("ideally" if all ok!), that fan and radio come on, then ignition, lights, dash, wipers, squirter, rear defog, leccy windows etc. But during cranking many are disconnected to provide max power to starter (disconnected stuff is controlled by the relay). I think it's just 3 circuits from memory, all of which should be live when running. My guess is that one of them is intermittant for some reason. All the equipment is working nicely; it's simply a power feed problem.

    Can be a pain to figure out when it only sometimes fails! We're here for moral support :)


    i will do a video next time it happens! i was hoping it was an easy fix.


    what about my coolant guage?


    • Like 1

  14. 4 minutes ago, mk2 said:

    Yeah, when you switch on (ignition), the 12V power is connected through the key switch to various things, like the instrument cluster, radio, lights, interior fan and of course the engine system. So if driving during daylight, the only tjing you'll probably notice is the instruments. But chances are fan, and a few other things will have also stopped.

    The ignition is also connected to (controls) the main power relay, which activates power to the hungry systems, that use lots of power. 

    Could be a loose fuse, but unlikely.

    You'll need to get to the back of the ignition switch and have a poke around. (Remove steering column cover- pics in clicking indicators how-to).

    Perhaps pull ig switch out and give it a clean and service. If that doesn't sort it, you'll need to swap the relay over, behind the fuse panel. That should fix it, but it could be a wiring fault, although unlikely.


    ok so first thing, if it happens again... and i turn the key to ignition... your saying the lights, radio etc... SHOULD NOT work ???? 

    • Like 1

  15. 1 hour ago, mk2 said:

    Yup. It's most likely the ignition switch. Could also be the main bus power relay. Both very common problems in older Lupos (and other vdubs).

    Diagnostics wont see it. It's basically a wiring fault and looks like the ignition key is being turned to off or just accessories on.

    also, what would explain the faulty temp guage? or perhaps just a fluke. i said i read in another thread this can cause starting issues


    • Like 1

  16. 1 hour ago, mk2 said:

    Yup. It's most likely the ignition switch. Could also be the main bus power relay. Both very common problems in older Lupos (and other vdubs).

    Diagnostics wont see it. It's basically a wiring fault and looks like the ignition key is being turned to off or just accessories on.

    Any idea on how to diagnose further??? or a fix for this ??



    • Like 1

  17. UPDATE:

    i am getting an annoying intermittent starting issue. I cant predict when or where it might happen but i will try and describe what im seeing.

    Firstly, i noticed my coolant guage on the dash, was dropping to 0 when driving... I checked this using the cheap app i have and the ecu reports it was at the correct temp of 90 (been very hot lately) 

    didnt think anything of it....

    then one day i pulled over to the side of the road, turnt my engine off to let some horses go by... couldnt turn it back on.. there were no warning lights on the dash, all electrics work, lights etc... but just wouldn't start. made a weird like churning noise like slow but wouldn't burst into life.. try that 3 times then nothing. 

    managed to get some jumpers on it after 30 mins of waiting around and sprung back into life.. no issues.....without jump leads.. it still would just churn for a couple of times then nothing

    i check my voltage regularly now. 14-14.2 when driving... key in ignition no turning it.. im measuring 13.5... the battery stays at 14 while driving over a period of 5 hours for example... 

    all whilst this is going on the coolant guage is on then off and so on... i did read on here that "could" affect starting??

    I have scanned the car for faults but nothing has come up.. VCDS i will check on the weekend but

    can anyone give an opinion?? 

    • Like 1
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