bigfatpixey

cool! glad to hear you go it sorted... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":shades:" border="0" alt="shades.gif" />

if you've only had cam belt and spark plugs done, its either your timing or the plug leads are on in the wrong order (or shoddy plugs?)

you can get the straps from vw parts for 12.00 +vat each... i think after time even the replacment straps suffer from the same problem. more of a temporary fix rather than a solution IMOH.

when my gf bought her car, the clutch was really heavy, it didn't like to change gear properly and was a ****** to drive. i changed the cllutch cable, checked the pedal box (that was ok), changed the gear oil etc.. none of it made a difference. took the gearbox off and found that the bracket that the release bering slides in and out on was completely shafted.. i.e. it was oval shaped rather than round.. got a new one from vw for around 2.75quid and put a new clutch and release bering on whilst the box was off. now the clutch is very very light and changes gear perfectly.. take a look at the pictures in here: CLICK! sounds like wadda has a different problem tho... when you say the bracket on the gearbox. you mean the gearbox housing that the clucth cable outer goes through. not the clutch leaver?

yeah i recon taking the gearbox off and checking the clutch and realease bearing and the braket etc was the last thing i could think of before replacing the box. good luck hope u get it sorted!

hi ya, i took the gearbox out because it wouldn't change gear very easily. turned out to the bracket that the release bearing slides on had snapped off and was grinding on the input shaft and not directing the release bearing in to the clutch properly style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":coffee:" border="0" alt="coffee.gif" /> its back together again now style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> GF wants me to convert it to power steering too, so i'm on the hunt for some bits style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

ok here's some photos at last border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" />

had a quick look the other day, seems like because of the bush being worn, the cracking noise is the strap moving around on the pin that holds it to the body. seemed to do it as soon as the first "notch" is passed when opening the door. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" /> and i'm still in bed style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blush:" border="0" alt="blush.gif" /> lol

same problem on my gf's 1.0l on both doors. seems a bit daft having to spend 24 quid to stop the doors creaking, just because the bush at the end of the door stay is worn. i recon it would be better to drill the dush out and put a plastic one in, or possibly a rubber one to stop it from happening again. gunna go see what i can make, i'll post a photo if its successfull style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" />

ok, put the gearbox back on and conencted everything back up. connected the clutch cable and OMG how much easier is it to depress the clutch!!!! took it for a 50 mile drive (as the it would be ok when the engine is cold but then get worse whilst it warmed up) and it changes perfectly every time now. so it was either because the bracket was bending and the release bearing wasn't releasing the clutch properly or the clutch was nackered (i replaced the clutch whilst the gearbox was off) however looking at the old clutch, it looked to have plenty of meat left on it and the pressure plate was hardly warn! hope this is of help to other ppl who have been having similar problems style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

hi ya, i dont know yet, i took the gearbox off last weekend and got the new part on wednesday. will be fitting it tomorrow afternoon so will let you know.. cheers Alex

75w90 fully synthetic according to elaswin style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":coffee:" border="0" alt="coffee.gif" /> did mine last weekend. would suggest using a bit of hose pipe and a funnel to get it back in through the fill up hole.

not got any ones as such as its in pieces at the bottom of my drive at the moment style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":o" border="0" alt="ohmy.gif" />) sorry.. i'll take a photo tomorrow lunch time if its not pissing it down again style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Ok took the gearbox off, the clutch didn't look too bad, but changed it anyway. The release bearing is about as smooth to spin as an old skateboard bearing, so thats ****ed. Looking at the metal plate that stops the release bearing from touching the input shaft one of the corners of the bracket had cracked and snapped off so the bracket was rubbing on the input shaft of the gearbox... I dont think this was doing the release bearing any favours border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" />

hi diddy, not fixed mine yet, however im 99% certain that the clutch it the cause of the problem. if i depress the cluth pedal really fast all the way to the floor it will change perfect. if you press the pedal slowly it feels like the clutch plate is getting stuck ,as all of a suden it becomes really stiff and then relases. i've got a new clutch which will be going on at the weekend so i'll let you know what happens. i've replaced, clutch cable, gear oil and checked the gear linkages which has cost about 15 quid so far. i dont mind replacing the clutch for 50 quid but if that doesn't fix it i'll start trying to get a new box. one thing i did also try was to not use the clutch and change gear i.e. get the throttle just right and pop it out of gear, then get the revs right so it drops in to gear. this worked perfectly every time which is why i think its a problem with the clutch.