No1

Hey fellows, Would unplugging the "plug" connected to the EGR actually preventing it from working? The big question here is, if unplugged, would it still remain open or closed forever? I also saw people suggesting cutting a small portion of a soda can and put it in-between the EGR and the engine to block the flow. Is that a better approach? How much of improvement would I notice? Thanks! (Lupo 23yo w/ straight pipe welded (cat stolen) and a functional egr (so far))

[SOLVED] You were actually right! thank you! I took it to a new mechanic and explained the problem. He went right to the "newly installed" thermo by the previous mechanic (1 week ago) and find out it was that plastic piece that was broken and the thermo pin was pushing into the void. The other mechanic didn't noticed the broken piece and only replaced the thermo... This one replaced the whole kit (thermo and accessories = almost same price as only thermo)

Amazing @lupogtiboy! thank you! I'll look into that! I will report later

@ObjectiveAway Just found out today the top radiator hose becomes very very hot to touch while the bottoms one stays always cool, and the 2 tiny ones entering/leaving the reservoir become very very hot, so hot the top one starts to shake due to pressure building up inside. If the thermostat was always open both hoses had to be hot right? And if it was faulty i.e. always closed the bottom one shouldn't be as stiff as the top one. They become unsquishable after 20min, maybe because they have gases inside (from faulty hg)?

@ObjectiveAway the mechanic thought that the issue was in the thermostat and changed it for a brand new one last week, but the problem persisted so it cannot be the therm Also, this problem surged from nowhere. The car wasn't intervened in the last months. But got to check those pipes

Hi there, I got a blinking red temp light on (>100C) 15min after leaving the area I had my car parked (reallyyyy slope road, for about 3h). Opened the bonnet and the reservoir had a lot of pressure inside. I let it cool down a bit and removed the blue cap. I missed a lot of coolant that spilled out right after opening it (I was aware of severe burn risk). I called the tow truck and got my car parked at home. Then, I turned on the engine with the Reservoir cap off and tapped some of those large hoses to release some eventually stuck air. It took me about 15/20min with the engine running (so head gasket might be good?) to start seeing some bubbles again in the reservoir, some of them coming back from the bottom small hose. The top thin hose pours water back into the reservoir on idle so the water pump may be working properly. Also, the more I press the gas pedal, the more water it pours in. great! I repeated the entire process again, now turning on the Heater fully on 'hot' after starting to see some bubbles 15min after engine start. It immediately dropped the temp and stopped the bubbling while it was on (cap off). Some aspects I've noticed so far: Timing belt and water pump are new (1.5y) OK Thermostat was changed last week. OK Reservoir lid is free of residues. OK Coolant is new (1 week old). it was refilled after the old one came out due to high pressure inside the reservoir. OK No leaks, spills on the ground below the car, or missing coolant after every/some cycles. OK The radiator fan (the only one I'm aware of) only comes ON if AC (hot) is turned on (not idea if the same result with just the heater on hot). It's not turning on by itself at 100C when bubbling starts occurring (ac or heater off). Is this the problem? Pressing the gas pedal increases the pouring flow of coolant into the coolant reservoir. Letting the engine on idle also pours water in, at a lower flow. OK Do i need to add distilled water to the G12 when filling up the tank? This is the one I'm using, directly into the reservoir. Question: Should I close the lid while the heater is still blowing? When do I know there is no more air in the system? What procedures should I take? Any ideas? Ty!