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Harrypm

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About Harrypm

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  1. Hi everyone Not really made a first post, just wanted straight up answers but now I’ve realised that this forum is worthwhile staying on so I’ll introduce myself. I’m Harry from Manchester. My mate owed me some money but gave me a yellow lupo instead. It drove ok and it was cheap but I hated the colour so I bought a black one instead. If you don’t see me in the super fast 1l lupo, I’ll be in my 500bhp supra Whenever I repair anything, I’ll try and take loads of pics to add to tutorials.
  2. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tool-Kit-Bearing-Wheel-Front-Installation-23Pc-Drive-Removal/133470746010?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  3. I've had to do a few more than you because the circlip was rusted solid so decided to just replace the whole assembly and put a new bearing in that too. The hardest part was probably getting the balljoints back on. The ebay bearing puller tool worked amazing, I was very impressed. Is there meant to be a circlip on the back too? I didn't have one or see a groove for one though and just wondered why they sent two in the box. I would also recommend changing the tie rods at the same time as doing this. With the bearing puller, I would recommend having two breaker bars. A ratchet and spanner won't be upto the job unless you have superhuman strength or you're very lucky and the bearing just slides out.
  4. Blast from the past but did you have to redo the tracking after replacing the bearing? I have a horrific noise from 50mph upwards and if I steer slightly right, it goes away. I originally thought It was the left side but I’ve just jacked it up and the left side has slight play at 9 and 3 but nothing at 12 and 6 which then made me check the right side and that had play at all 4 points. Worth replacing both the fronts whilst I’m at it?
  5. Thanks for that, I ran 6 through the system over 2 days until the water ran clear.
  6. I've taken this on board. I'm jumping straight into the deep end when it might be a simple fix. A stuck thermostat or air in the system could've blown the coolant out of the bottle, especially with all that sludge. I took out the thermostat and had no issues so far apart from the car cooling down very fast when just idling. I've replaced the radiator and will put in a new thermostat and housing when it comes this week and see what it does then. I've not checked the pump but the water is circulating. I did have a small pool of oil under the car when it first happened so that gave me the initial scare. I can't see anymore oil now.
  7. This is only a guide on how I did it, I take no responsibility if you damage your car or harm yourself in any way doing this. My lupo is 2003 and has no aircon. Got my radiator from eurocarparts as online you have 5 different options. Here’s the rad code I had. I’m not sure if it’s still the oem radiator. Might as well put a new thermostat in whilst you’re at it. I ordered one with the housing that connects to the radiator hose as apparently they are prone to breaking. MK2 suggested flushing it with dishwasher tablets as the system was oily so I did it 6 times. Dissolved a tablet, put fresh water in with it, ran the car for 20 minutes, waited til it hit about 50c on my obd scanner(can buy them for 20 quid on eBay) and drained all the water. I’d then wait about 30 mins until it said 30c before flushing it with a hosepipe. You don’t want to put cold water into a hot engine! It cleared up all the oil too. Top tip, remove the thermostat for a better flush experience. I also assume that you have knowledge on flushing an engine. For the thermostat, I’ll add some pics with instructions to this thread once my new one comes. Tools needed 10mm socket with a driver and an extension 8mm socket for thermostat housing torque bits(unsure on size) flat screwdriver pipe pliers( to remove the horrible spring clips from the hoses) New antifreeze Remove these Then wrap some tape around a flat screwdriver to pry out the indicator grill cover. The little white plastic rivet things might break so have some spare ones if you can. Once you’ve popped both sides, gently pull it out and use the screwdriver to push out the plastic tabs all along the bumper and the top. You’ll see them from above once you start pulling them off. Also unscrew the indicator bulbs to get it off completely. It’s easier to unscrew them as opposed to getting the clip off the bulb. it should leave you with this Undo the three supports and pull them back. Someone grinded mine off in the middle. Once you’ve done this, you’ll have space to pull out the radiator. Now we’ll go and disconnect the radiator from the cover and hoses. Use the 10mm socket to remove the fan as it’s easier to get to the hoses that way. If yours are like mine and the bottom bolt is rusted on and just turns, remove only the top two and tie it to the left of you. Remove the fan plug and the radiator temp sensor plug too. You’ll need to pry off the metal bracket on the fan plug with a flat screwdriver, it should then just slide out. We’ll remove the hoses now whilst the radiator is still bolted in. Make sure it’s not hot or you’ll burn yourself. whilst I was doing this I disconnected the overflow bottle, tied off the bottom feed and put some degreaser with boiling water in. Left it for the duration of me fitting the radiator then flushed it with a hosepipe for ten minutes. Now that you removed the pipes with the pipe pliers, there are 4 10mm bolts to remove. Your radiator will now slide out of the front where the brackets are. Make sure you take it easy so you don’t damage the new one going in. If your radiator is brand new, screw the bolts in halfway as it needs to cut a new thread into the plastic and it’s a pain when the radiator is already in the car. Remove them and then install the radiator. You can also remove the fan temp sensor and install it to the new one whilst it’s out. Everything is now in reverse. Put the new one in, bolt it in and connect the bottom hose. Bolt the fan back in, plug the fan and the sensor in. Before you put in the new thermostat or attach the top radiator hose, start filling the top rad hose until coolant starts coming out of the top of the radiator. Connect the top rad hose, install the thermostat, connect the hose at the bottom of the overflow tank and fill that up to the maximum level. Make sure all is connected and start the car with the coolant cap off. Once the thermostat opens, you might have to add more coolant and keep a close eye on the cars temperature. Once you see the coolant circulating and it doesn’t want more, close the cap to pressurise the system and check for leaks. Your coolant light might start flashing, if it doesn’t want any more coolant, switch the car off and on to reset the coolant light. Now keep an eye on the system. You’ll see steam from the radiator, this is normal as we’ve spilled coolant and water all over. The fan should come on at 96c. If you haven’t got the obd diagnostic tool, you won’t know but wait til the fan comes on and the temperature is stable for about 20 minutes. If so, put the grill back on and go for a test drive. Hope this helps at least one person.
  8. Hi everyone Wanted to buy a different radiator to replace mine whilst I’m working on it but there are 5 different part numbers. Anyone know the exact one I need? It’s a 2003 model if that’s of any help. Thanks
  9. Am I overthinking this job? Do I just need to remove the 10 star bolts to get the head off? Anything else to remove apart from the fuel rail, intake manifold and exhaust manifold? Thanks for any tips.
  10. Hi Everyone Had another thread to double check that my headgasket blew but after some testing, I'm now sure it has. Has anyone got any tutorials or photos on how to change them? I've searched high and low all day but can't find anything on google or here. It looks pretty straight forward but someone mentioned about the valves or cams that might need redoing, is this correct? Whilst I'm at it, I might as well change the cambelt so a how to for that would be nice too. Thanks guys
  11. Thanks for the answers guys. Top rad house is hot. I’ve noticed yesterday that the radiator fan has never come on since I’ve owned the car. Shorted the plug and it did come on so might be a faulty sensor. Updates i have oil under the car and it’s using oil rapidly. Engine is running fine but the water is still squirting out of the bottle after 15 minutes, even though the needle states it’s not overheating. I’ve done a search for headgasket replacements but on 8 pages I couldn’t find a how to or any torque settings. Any info will be appreciated. Also, will the 1.0l have an oil cooler?
  12. Hi everyone I'm new here so sorry for signing up and going straight to the point. I've had oily coolant since I bought the car last year and it never bothered me. The radiator had a slow leak for 3 weeks but I just kept topping it up as I could see water dripping from the front. Drove today and saw steam coming from the bonnet, gauge was bang on in the middle as normal but I pulled over and saw water boiling out of the expansion tank. I now know 90% that its probably the headgasket that went. Is it worth fixing the engine or just buying another one to put in? Thought about doing it myself but someone said it's quite tricky. Any help or advice appreciated. Thanks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aa9pldmPjuY
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