Starquids

Just a post recommending 2 products from personal use. First is a water less cleaner - Greased Lightning- good to clean when you don’t wanna shampoo (if it’s light dirt!!) or drought. Good on glass & plastic too. Use one microfibre cloth to apply, and use another to easily buff to a shine. Great lazy product. 2. Hydro Silex is a ceramic coating you apply on to a clean/ already polished car and protects the bodywork, meaning you don’t have to wax so often! Again, good on glass & plastic. Again, use 2 microfibre cloths. No hard rubbing. Have used for 15 months, and one application lasts at least 3 months. So I just wash it! Order from European site, not US site! Lower postage, no import duty. ( well at moment anyway!)

At £29 per replacement arm, let’s make them new for a tenner. Primer & satin black aerosol & wire wool, £10 from Wilko. Cheap! Flat wipers £5.70 PAIR from Amazon. (21”& 19” ) free delivery if you’re in no hurry. Bargain! 1. Open bonnet. Lever cap off nut using small flat blade screwdriver. 2. Unbolt nuts with 13mm ring spanner or small socket set. 3. Lift off arms from spindles. Do not twist as you’ll damage splines. 4. Rub down arms with wire wool. Spray grey primer lightly, 2 coats. Spray 2 light coats satin black. Always wait 15 mins between coats to allow to dry. Now leave for 24 hours to fully harden. 5. Replace wiper blades now if needed, then refit, reverse of removal. Use copper ease on nuts to stop rust too.

Thank you!

So we fitted cable, the second half, part no: 6H2 823 531. Easy to route, and connect. Bolted in catch, locked it with screwdriver shaft, then tested new handle mech. It works!! We adjusted catch to lowest position to align bonnet with wings, and adjusted bonnet rubber stops (screw in/out) so bonnet doesn’t rattle when down. If you press on bonnet & it rattles in catch, adjust the rubber stops out by half turn. Fitted new mechanism that handle attaches to in footwell, part no: 6X2 823 633B.

I got mine via Amazon, approx £6 delivered. Just needed a polish after. No scratches or damage to paintwork.

Want to remove your badges quickly & leave no damage to your paint? 1. Get your floss and saw it back & forth behind the individual letters. You’ll be left with some sticky foam. 2. Attach a Eraser wheel in a cordless drill at max speed. Gently move across the foam back & forth. Keep removing the residue with a microfibre cloth. 3. Once all removed, wax it. 4. Ten minutes all done!

Yes all double din should fit. You will, however, need to fit a new adaptor in the vacant hole (!) when you’ve removed the old stereo & cupholders. It flushes the gap between the dash & new unit too.

For anyone who’s never used this before, this stuff is great!! use on threads where a nut 🥜 (s) or fixing may need removing in the future. It ensures it doesn’t rust together, prevents water ingress, applied on back of brake pads - stops them squeeling, smear some in screw/torx heads to prevent rust & dirt, apply to battery lead connectors- good conductivity & easy to undo in future, loads of uses!☺️ DO NOT use on any threads that have or need thread/stud lock. Having had to cut off my sons aerial because it had rusted together, the new one has been copper eased on all threads. What a hero I am.

So my sons Arosa had mis-matched indicators, with water ingress. Easy to replace, but let’s do it properly. 1. Remove wheel liner. Ours are missing, 🙄 2. Disconnect earth lead from battery. 3. Push indicator forward & out from wing. We discarded the whole of the old unit & cut wiring back to Seat original. We push this back through into car below windscreen. We added 5A fully insulated bullets, joined the new wiring & heat shrunk it to seal. We cable tied this to wiring loom to keep it tidy. 4. Put on hazards to test & then clipped new light unit into wing. 5. Stand back and admire!!

So this car, being 17yo, suffers with everything having been undone, nothing been put back correctly! the bonnet catch had no cable attached, just a piece of chain , which was rubbing against the radiator. So removed mechanism, 3 bolts, and ordered a replacement from a breakers. New ones are £48+ vat. Bugger that. Stevens £14.99 inc delivery. Yep it was filthy & clogged up with manky grease & bent. Cleaned in petrol (love the aroma!), used a screw driver blade to mimic bonnet & pushed down to lock. Pulled lever where cable would go & nothing!! it wasn’t moving to the right far enough. In the vice, bashed with a hammer & mole grips. All good. Works. Added some copper grease and refitted. Just waiting for a replacement cable. Pics below & some from my online manual, that cost me a tenner.

The Arosa mk2 has a different clock spring to the Lupo, and has a different fitment method. Part number: 6K0 959 653. I failed to get a new one from Seat, so settled for one from a breakers. First, remove earth lead from battery. No need to wait. 1. Use a T30 bit to unscrew the 3 torx screws on the underside of the steering wheel. Pic 1. 2. Un-clip yellow connector from airbag & remove black horn lead. Undo nut one full turn & tug on wheel hard to dislodge. Finally unscrew nut fully. Pic 2 3. Part number pic3 4. Clock spring pic4 5. Remove shroud from underside, by unscrewing 3 torx screws. Un-clip yellow purple plug. Pull up 3 red plugs in steering wheel. The clock spring can be removed from the steering wheel. Pic 5. 6. Place in new part, BUT make sure both arrows are aligned. Pic6. 7. Push in 3 red plugs to lock in. Locate wheel on spline - line up mark on wheel with dot on spline. Pic7. 8. Plug in yellow purple plug, & refit shroud carefully. Don’t force. Screw 3 torx screws back in. Pic8. 9. Refit airbag, re-attach yellow clip & black horn lead. Screw in 3 torx T30 screws. Pic9. 10. Re-connect earth lead. Test horn. Airbag light will need re-setting.

Currently EuroCarParts.com have the smoked indicator with bulb holder & 40cm leads for £5.20 each including free delivery! You must apply summer sale code, on their web page, at checkout.

Hope he’s sorting it! fly eye wrap is vinyl wrap with mesh style holes, gives lights a tint, but allows more light through than dark tints or sprays. Passes mot too.

Yes, had to solder all back together, as breakers had cut all the connections! the high level brake lamp is such a crap design. Very fragile.

So here it’s finished, with Japanese fly eye wrap added.

My son did fit this new. The old alloy aftermarket one came off when driving and the gaitor had a tear in it.

Removed rear bumper & lights/ trim. Removed tailgate after this photo. Had to massage the boot latch beam to align the replacement tailgate. Used masking tape between lights and took measurements of gap v tailgate. Only 1.5cm out!😳 Had to swap over latch mechanism, as wanted to keep lock barrel. After adjusting the connecting rod for length, boot now opens & closes. Unfortunately my son didn’t help due to a festival he was at. I’ll post finished picture when we receive the new lights.

Got the parts from a breakers in Wales. Tailgate & bumper £50. Just have to collect it!

Hi! Owner of a Imperial blue 1.0 Arosa, bought for my son learning to drive. Picked up in sunny Bradford, 3 miles later, a new 3008 smacked into the back. 🙄 Anyone know of a tailgate I can buy? No joy so far. Anyway, my son loves it.