iwcham1979

I havent soldered anything in my life I have found a 3l tacho for 50 euros, but idont know whether the versions must be the same, as well as whether the swap would require some coding?

Hi guys. The tacho on my Loup 3L does not illuminate the fuel consumption box, so i figured i might want to replace it There are some tacho units on e-bay. I am wondering whether there would be some coding involved, and if it makes the difference whether the tacho gauges are white or gray? Tnx http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Lupo-3L-1-2TDI-61PS-Tacho-Tachometer-Kombiinstrument-Drehzahlmesser-/252451020314?hash=item3ac740de1a:g:Z84AAOSw-KFXfGhy http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tacho-DZM-VW-Lupo-1-2-TDI-3L-61PS-45kW-Bj-98-05-6E0920800D-270Tkm-/151999174453?fits=Model%3ALupo&hash=item2363db5735:g:WEwAAOSwFNZW1FsI&vxp=mtr One is 6E0920800 the other 6E0919860, then there are different versions of both V4, V5,,,, Must i go for exactly the same as mine?

Oki, tnx. I ve ordered a set of Depos...

Hi guys, I am not satisfied at all with light output of the headlights, and they definitely recquire replacement. I can buy some nice new Depo headlights for a fraction of what the dealer would charge for OEM. However, I am getting conflicting info on whether the ordinary Lupo headlights would fit the 3L as well? Can you clarify please? Some say, no, 3L has different headlights, while Lupo headlights sellers on ebay mostly say otherwise. Part no. from my headlights (provided they are a factory set) are: 6X1941751J and 6X1941752J Cheers guys

Hi guys. A guy has a problem with his Lupo 3L. My mechanic has asked me to take some vcsd readings from my Lupo and i offered to lend a hand by asking on the forum. The car in question stopped selecting gears and the guy somehow drove it home stuck in second gear. My readings show 1.86v for cluch travel sensor (g162), as it should, whereas his min. value is 4.6v, so the cluch is always open i guess. Any ideas guys? Help appreciated. Tnx Fault code: 01071 Cluch movement sensor (g162) 16-00 Signal outside specifications Does this mean that the very sensor is faulty, or perhaps something else? Tnx! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Guys, it was the hydraulic engine mount. It leaked... I ordered all the 3 mounts for perfect replacement... I did small service with quality filters and Mobil Formula ESP 507.00, changed gearbox oil, used Fuchs Titan Syntofluid FE 85w. It has a new battery and tyres. Lupo is now in top shape, finally.... Visually, it needs the bumpers painted, right front bumper cover replaced..... Cheers!

No Carrera, you didnt read carefully. The pulsing or vibrations are caused by my lifting off the brake with the car in D and handbrake On. There is a bit of a strain on the engine as the car tries to drive away so the vibrations start. When i press the brake again, the vibrations stop. I know what you ment but it has nothing to do with the pump..

Guys, it's all fine with Lupo. Basic settings problem was solved. It was a problem without a problem... The mechanic tried with the other laptop, and all went fine... The car shifts fine, changing the accumulator was a smart move, because now i can make 6 shifts in tiptronic mode, as opposed to only 1 shift.... I have bought Esp formula 507 oil and all the filters, Fuchs Sintofluid FE 75W for tranny and Skf timing belt set... Now to solve this lol. Any ideas? Engine mounts look fine...

Found another guide. I think it's nice and thorough as it can be... I am posting it here in case somebody with the similar issue comes to take a look... Well, i hope we can recover it, or else, the next threads i'll be searching and questions asking will be about retrofiting a manual gearbox The guy is a certified Skoda mechanic, so I hope he will not allow himself to lose a good name... I know the man since he has been servicing my Seat Altea and Skoda Octavia for years. He is a good one, but has obviously not immersed himself into this and done his homework. I am sending him all the links, in order to facilitate things... I hope he will consider me a helper rather than a nuissance. I doubt that VW would do any better. What they are good at is ordering new parts and changing all. I guess they would suggest changing the entire system... http://cars-volkswagen.com/lupo/lupo-3l-gear-actuator-adaptation-lupo-vwforum-ro.html

Something about loosening the gear actuator nut and tightening it... At first attempt he didn't loosen anything, just started the setting, then when he saw it was a no go, he lifted up the car removed the plastic cover beneath the engine, and completely removed the screw hoping that the car would finish the setting... Nothing new happened.... I found something about not switching off the ignition under any circumstances, after the basic setting had been interrupted, which was obviously done here.... http://www.lupo3lklub.dk/pdf/Grundjustering%20-.pdf http://wiki.3lvrienden.nl/?page_id=413 http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/5-Speed_Electronic_Manual_Transmission_%28085%29 It doesnt make sense to completely remove the screw and expect the car to "fake" the settings, right? It should be as the vagcom says, during the setting loosen and tighten, right?

Guys, went to pick up the car. New accumulator installed, seals changed, Hydraulics oil changed, turbo cleaned, went for a test drive, the car drove fine, but i forgot to ask whether the basic settings had been done, so i drove back to the garrage. The mechanic said "No", so he took his laptop, and started doing the settings. The Vag-Com was slow to respond, giving instructions to loosen some nut, then tighten it, the gearbox started making clicking sounds. He unhooked the laptop from the Obd connector, and the car wouldn't start. When in tiptronic he continued clicking and selecting gears.... When connected via obd it went to 1, 2, 3, had trouble selecting 4, and went on to 5, sometimes barely touching 4. The mechanic said the car needs to be raised and some nut disconnected so that the gearbox could go through the gears unobstructed and finish the settings. After doing so, the same thing happened. I tried to start the car when the car was lowered, the engine started, but immediately cut off. The mechanic was in the middle of servicing another car so he had to leave Lupo for tomorrow, "hoping" to find the solution. Any advice would be appreciated! I am now worried if any damage had been done and whether things had been seriously messed up...

Sweet. I dont want aftermarket switch. I think I even have wires ready. that i can see when i pry open the existing covers The headlight switch i guess is the same as on any Lupo, so it wont be too dificult to find a second-hand one.

Guys, tnx a lot. The car is now being repaired. The turbo, egr and maf were dirty and clogged, nothing more. The mechanic ordered a set of seals for hydraulic system, and i bought new accumulator. I didnt buy OEM oil, but Febi Bilstein oil of correct spec, that is VW G 004 000 M2, so i guess all is gonna be fine. Btw, the car has no fog lights, so i was wondering whether it would be difficult to retrofit from Lupo 3L that has them. Do you by any chance know the part numbers for the plastic covers and fog lights? My idea is to retrofit Morimoto projectors in headlights and buy some 3000k xenons, and retrofit fog lights and fit in the 3000k xenon bulbs as well...

Tried to take out the fluid out of the plastic container by using a thin hose and a surringe. It was a no go because the hose takes a winding route and gets stuck, it can not simply plunge downwards. The only way is to dismantle the thing. There is a kind of a quide here. As far as i could get it, there is a danger of trapping air in the system... http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?25145-A2-1-2-TDi-Pressure-accumulator-replacing-with-pics-and-Fluid-question

Sure

Ye, new accumulator is due to arrive on monday, but prior to fitting it i'm going to try to flush the old fluid out without dismanteling anything. I have taken some of the fluid out and the visible leak seems to have stopped, since the system is no more overfilled with oil.... I have ordered 1l of Febi-Billstein mineral oil that matches the G004 000 M2 specification. I am going to drain the container after not starting the car for at least 12 hours, and refill, than repeat in a few days, and finally replace the accumulator and pour the OEM stuff...

Thx...

Hi guys, greetings from Serbia. Just bought a 3L, and me, Skezza and CarreraGt are already sorting out a few quirks big time atm ( gearbox service and sticky turbo vanes) Got it for 2300e so i cant really complain. The production year is 2002, excellent condition, has climate control, which is kind of rare, all in first paint. I am pleasantly suprised that there is no corrosion whatsoever.... upload Bought these a year and a half ago, prior to buying one 3l, which turned out to not exactly fit the add description. Yesterday I did a bit of detailing on them... Cheers...

kkk, tnx. That's what i'll do. How much oil should i buy for a full refill? edit: Got it. The system requires only 0.4l according to this: https://www.kroon-oil.com/en/product-recommendation/cars/volkswagen-vw/lupo/lupo-3l-12-tdi/36422/415135/#!/component:415135/

Thx. The car is in the garage, waiting for new plates, and then the mechanic... Since i dont drive it, i checked the oil level in the container every morning. That mechanic definitely overfilled it with oil, not knowing what he was doing. The pump has sucked in the oil in the accumulator, and he topped up. When the car is off, the oil level starts to rise, and the oil somehow, whether by design or brute force finds a way to drip out. I have managed to take out about a dl of oil by using suringe. Also, i have just read that the oil needs to be GREEN VW PowerSteering oil, whereas the mechanic poured in some red steering stuff. Is all this overfilling, dripping, and using inappropriate oil likely to cause any damage, where there was no damage in the first place. I should have replaced only the accumulator and leave it at that. Nothing more was required, but now... Here is the pic of some of the oil i extracted, and the correct stuff. Actually G004 000 (M2) is now available, which is the new G002 000... How do i go about flushing all the old crap out without dismantling all? I was thinking of emptying the plastic container by using surringe, but the access is obstructed by a plastic piece...? I find all this kind of ridiculous. I am doing a thorough research for the mechanic

Ok. By any chance, does anybody know the OEM part numbers for hydraulic pipes and seals, rings etc... It may be wise to change these as well, or at least have them handy. While ordering the accumulator today I asked for them, the tech said "no such a thing as seals and pipes to order." I've tried to google the parts out, to no avail...

Tnx guys. I noticed oil smudges in the garage, left side and definitely hydraulics oil. Maybe a coincidence, but it started when the mechanic topped up the oil in the plastic container. (He used appropriate steering wheel oil) Is this definitely a leak, or maybe just some excess oil? At first I thought it was excess oil because the plastic container and cap were oily too, as well as space around the accumulator, so i thought the system is getting rid of the superfluous oil. I would say the leak occurs only when the engine is on, judging by the freshness of the smudge? If the car, which was not used at all for 10 months, is leaking oil at such a rate, how the hell did I drive it all the way home some 250km, without ANY oil and had no problems shifting? And immediately after the mechanic topped it up, it gave up on the freeway, stick in D but no response. Or can a car give up on you like this with a bad accumulator? Mine is fireing the pump every second change. Can you make any sense of this? Where do leaks tupically occur? I ordered the new accumulator today, not expensive, only 50 euros. Maybe it is the good idea to replace hoses and some rubber seals, but i dont have the oem numbers for that....

Well, tnx a lot for the info... You are great guys. The rod that you mention, that's what i called "the thingey" It moves with difficulty, and has some surface rust. The car hasnt been driven for cca 10 months. I will have the mechanic heed your advice.

Tnx carrera for the reply. On my way to a Skoda dealer today. when i started to accelerate on the freeway, the car went like a little beast, all fine, 140-150km/h a joke, but only for a brief 30sec, then decreased speed to 120km/h. the mechanic took a look, fiddled with a little clamp thingy near the turbo, said it moves with difficulty, blew with his mouth into a tiny hose, said it is clogged, so the turbo needs to be taken out and looked at. As for the pressure accumulator, he said it is good to replace it, and also the hoses resealed because there might be a leak as well. He said the hydraulic oil was at min and topped up with steering wheel servo oil. On my way home, the car was horrible, nmax speed 100km/h, struggled in 4th, changed to fifth, than back to fourth, then went to neutral kind of, with the stick in D mode. No response from gas pedal. I stopped on the yellow lane, switched off the car, switched on and i started to shift... When i came back home, i opened the hood. Somehow, the oil the the mechanic had topped owerflowed somewhat even though the cap was tightened, and greased and sprinkled close by. I have now driven some 10 extra-urban km, and it shifts fine.... I am totally confused now...

It was not in Eco mode. A friend told me it may be the EGR or MAF... Regarding the transmission, so, if i got it right, i wont do any damage to the gearbox system by driving with the near-dead hydraulic accumulator (it powers after only one gear change in tiptronic) ? I mean, i will definitely replace, nevertheless, but i can drive like this for a while?