Adrian777

Cheers! Seriously excellent company to deal with, like I can’t rave about them enough

December 2020 update! Car’s on nearly 216k and still running fine. Not really done much with it except use it but have some bits lined up! Sent some secondhand brake callipers off to a company called Bigg Red since my old ones were sticking and what I got back off Bigg Red was fantastic. Would definitely recommend the company to anybody as the turn around time was rapid (pre virus) and the communication was excellent. Can’t fault them except having to pay a fair bit extra for them to be red but meh😂 Still love the car but just want a little more excitement and saw this Raceland 4-2-1 manifold for sale for not too much. I understand this won’t fit directly to the factory centre pipe and it does need welding but I’m in no rush to sort it at the moment

Thank you kind sir! I will update this soon as I've done a few more bits but will upload closer to Christmas

Has sealant been applied just between the bell housing and rubber gasket but not between the rubber gasket and end cap if you know? I appreciate your help greatly! I have ordered a rubber seal now but I believe the rubber seal on yours is off another VAG group car like a Fabia 1.2, A1 1.4 TFSI or a Polo as I had a good dig to find that a lot of the more modern VAG cars had 02U or 02T boxes too. Next week I'm going to give this a good go hopefully but just RVT it if the rubber gasket doesn't go to plan.

Old engine mount had a stripped thread, managed to pick up a second hand one for very little that had been recently blasted and got a good painter mate to do it in Hyacinth red mainly in order to protect the cast Aluminium from oxidising on the surface. Since it had been blasted it did have a pitted surface on it so it wasn't smooth but meh Personally buzzing that I managed to get it in without any assistance for somebody who's not incredibly experienced Will be getting a few other bits done the same colour in order to make it look less odd and stand out less but Rome wasn't built in a day!

Thank you very much kind sir, 02T 301 215 H looks like the one you have there! Zooming in on your picture it looks like your rebuilders used some white sealant on it as well as the rubber gasket although unlikely, am I chatting rubbish or can you confirm this?

@LR5V Sorry to drag up an old topic, do you have a part number for that rubber gasket on the end cover? And with that rubber gasket on does that prevent the need of any sealants being used as a gasket so no RTV sealants are needed additionally? Thank you!

Gearbox Oil today! Used this stuff! If anybody is looking to buy Millers Oil for cheap, check out ID Workz, performance part shop local to West Yorkshire but sells Millers Oils a lot cheaper than Opie, etc. Anyways I had a good laugh/cry when I drained the box to find about 20ml of oil came out, there is an end cover sealant leak which will be addressed asap. Box feels and sounds a lot better now however.

That guide is wonderful, great find! I did some searching and found this, so it's them 2 bearings that you're on about on the end which I will need to be careful with? But yes in the meantime I'm going to give it a clean and then see if it's coming from elsewhere! Think what will end up happening is an attempt will be made to drop the box out since I don't believe the box has received much attention in its 200,000 mile life and the attention it has had looks interesting to say the least... Thanks a lot gentlemen!

I'm envious as to how clean it looks😍 So it appears as though it's missing that rubber gasket... But yeah there's a few drips coming off there so believe it's box oil. That's a very good shout though checking clutch line although the Master cylinder has stayed at the same level for a while. Is it a can of worms if that cover was to be removed and sealed do you know?

Thank you for posting a decent picture of the box! It's weeping out of there which looks as though it uses a sealent gasket like the rocker cover does but this looks like an absolute ballache to change if you can confirm😂

Hello all! I've been searching all over for pictures and diagrams just to check the location of the gearbox oil fill and drain holes but found it's all been deleted off here and Google hasn't helped😪 Just to clarify, the fill hole is the one I've circled in red and it's closest to the driver's side whereas the drain hole is closest to the passenger side of the car? And these are M16 security splines? Also read a few people saying that the box will only take about 1 litre of oil when it's on flat ground so will need jacking up from the rear to tilt the car forward and then it'll take the other 1.1 litres or so if anybody can confirm whether this is always the case or it's hit and miss. Thank you!

Managed to get it in using minimal amount of lube without issues! Just used a small basic workshop vice to press it in, so to summarise yes it is possible to put in a GTi Powerflex lower engine mount for a weekend warrior without using any power tools. Halfords advanced socket set, saw, flathead screwdriver and vice. If the arm itself doesn't need painting and doesn't have any corrosion on it then it's not a long job either!

Aye I've seen many people use similar methods such as using hole saws etc to remove bushes but I'm just trying to demonstrate to the internet that it is possible without any power tools or anything more complicated than a saw and flathead screwdriver!

Don't have a foggiest what the VW recommended torque setting is but I'm happy enough with how the bolt screws in the thread to know it shouldn't cause me any issues when tightening it again even without Loctite.

I did worry that was the case but I've screwed the correct bolts into the threads and both internal threads are fine like the bolts go in smoothly without any excessive movement!

3 months on and the car is on about 210,000 miles now! As you can probably tell by now I am in love with the sidelight bulbs, would strongly recommend the Philips 6000K 501 fitment bulbs which I bought for around £15! So it has also been around 10,000 miles since my engine rebuild too which was one of the initial doings to the car as we all know and that's still running great but I'll get back to that soon. With that in mind I invested in another jack and did an oil change using Millers Nanodrive 5W40 instead of the Quantum 5W40 which I'd previously been using. Obviously the price difference between Quantum and Millers is massive since Nanodrive retails at around £75 but from the initial startup and drive, although probably psychological, it does seem smoother and quieter but we'll have to wait for COVID19 to be done with before I can give a better review on this "Ester based" oil compared to Quantum. So back to my engine rebuild. So for the last few months or so I had a lot of vibration and a metal clunking noise whenever there were any sudden movements or the car was turned on or off, from my MK4 Golf fan boy days I knew that it would have been a lower engine mount. Turns out the gentlemen who took my engine out to then hand to the rebuilder didn't torque down the lower engine mount bolts... So as you can see one bolt was missing and the other was extremely loose so I imagine the rubber mount had had an excessive amount of stress put through it. (Powerflex Lower Engine Mount Bush - Lupo GTI - PFF85-921) I'm now currently in the process of fitting a Powerflex replacement although the original rubber didn't look or feel too bad but COVID19 entertainment... I could not find any threads or information at all on any forums about how this fitted so I will give an idiot's guide to how difficult it is exactly for somebody who isn't extremely experienced😝 So for anybody who's just browsing the internet for more information on this, I removed the blade from a saw and then put it into the bush to then cut the middle section out first (You can see the remains of this on the floor in the second picture above). And then used a saw to carefully cut the PLASTIC outer ring out making sure not to cut too deep into the arm itself. Bare in mind that it is plastic so you don't necessarily need to cut all the way down as to force out the plastic ring which surrounds the rubber, I used a flathead screwdriver to pry it out. I'm currently in the process of sorting the corrosion on the arm and painting it so I've not yet pressed the bush in but I will update this thread once completed! Bare in mind before I get attacked, obviously there will be better ways of doing it but this is a half assed guide for somebody who does not have access to all types of fancy tooling

It's been a while but been giving the car a little bit of love gradually! When at operating temperature the car used to misfire and cough at idle which did my nut in so new NGK plugs, HT Leads and Fahren coilpack. If any GTi owners are wondering about the leads they are handmade from eBay by a seller called Mr Retro Leads I believe it was and they're about £35. The leads work fine but if you know somebody with TPS I would recommened buying genuine VW over these as the quality doesn't feel as solid as genuine VW leads! They don't have a satisfying click when pressed into the coilpack like the standard leads do and the outer material is a lot more flexible and softer. It did feel as though the leads would fall out due to vibration but done 1000 miles with them on now and so far so good! Just as a Guinea Pig to see how good Cheaper/Chinese Xenon bulbs are, put 2 new Lunex 6000k bulbs in whilst I took the front end apart to make the washer jet covers fit a little better. So far so good with the Lunex bulbs but whilst there I discovered I need a new passenger side headlight if anybody has one they'd like to sell to me Put some Philips LED 501 Sidelight bulbs in too and I must say they do look fantastic over standard Last little thing is I picked up some Cambridge rear lights and must say they transform the back end! (FYI pretend the dirt isn't there)

Understood! We'll see what happens in a few thousand miles time Not including weekend although I did order off Kam Racing who asked HEL to make them and then send it directly to me, ended up saving about £2.00 though by ordering off Kam instead of HEL directly and every little helps I guess Would it have been more you reckon if I got measurements of the lines and then went to HEL direct for custom lines instead of buying the OEM replacement off HEL?

HEL Delivery and production times are seriously fantastic! Less than 5 days to make up and send. I mean having had these lines in now for a few weeks and done probably about 700 miles on em for the money they are great as an OEM replacement to help futureproof the car but it's one of them ones where I wouldn't go out of my way to get them fitted. Ermmmm Hope my mechanic cleaned out sliders and regreased, but at the very least I can see he copper greased the new pads at least! Is it important to do so?

They do look fantastic but the noise is another league Envious of you being able to source a Janspeed rear box though!

So front nearside disc which came with the car had warped badly even though they had plenty of life left but AA gentleman said that's due to them being bad quality and heavy braking. Incredibly annoying and the steering wheel vibration was just horrendous. Gave it some new Brembo discs and pads from Euro Car Parts, around £60 for them so not half bad personally! There was also a slight brake fluid leak too so slapped some Stainless Steel braided HEL brake lines on too whilst at it. Appreciate they aren't fantastic images but honestly very pleased with the lines! Ordered them off Kam Racing and the levels of service there are fantastic though! Very quick delivery time to say they were out of stock and they needed making with plenty of delivery updates. Well worth the extra money ordering off Kam Racing instead of other companies as that was a stress free process. In regards to the fitting of the lines however, I didn't do them myself due to not wanting to potentially kill my brakes😂 But the lines on the rear weren't a quick and simple job to do apparently as some drilling/grinding needs to be done. Speaking to other owners who have put in braided lines too, some have said it is easier to drop the rear axle to put them on but my garage didn't bother!

Ninth owner! Wowwwwww, so a few of the previous owners were wanting performance by the sound of things. How many miles has your car done? Excited to get mine on VCDS to find out what's going on though so unless you beat me to it I'll keep you posted!😁

Interesting read! After reading it you'd be under the impression it is normal to overfuel but I don't at all believe Volkswagen would sell a car which fouls/blacks spark plugs after only 2 miles of driving😂 On cold it idles around 1000-1200 on first startup doesn't it and then drops to about 800-1000. Do you know much on the history of your car Martin? Mature or young owners? Well looked after and unmodified? As you can probably tell looking through this thread my GTi has been abused daily and cheaply modified so I still have the idea that a dodgy remap could be causing this but we won't know until VCDS comes in! In regards to the EPC light however, I believe it did come up with brake light switch fault when scanned using an expensive Snap On code reader but my eBay special reader didn't come up with any codes.

I did that praying my fuel trips would be less but still there after changing it😥 Changed every sensor/part I can possibly think of which affects it directly but no ball.