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On the subject of cheap front discs, mine is still bloody warping the damn things. New callipers and wheel bearings. I'm going to try something more expensive and observe a proper bed in procedure. I love the sh*t out my Lupo, but it's become hard work lately. Not sure if to take a punt on those TRW shocks.

That's a good question for our man in the know.

Thanks @lupogtiboy this is great info. I believe I ended up with the economy shocks for the rear. When I bought it the dampers back there were completely buggered. I don't want to skimp on things for the car, but I'm happy to keep it standard and it's no longer a no expense spared project. In the past I've spent thousands (like we all have) treating cars to only the bests parts going, but ultimately this is my daily so I'd just like it to behave how they intended from the factory - no more or less. FWIW these were the one's the local parts place seem to recommend. TRW seemed to be quite highly regarded, but they seem very cheap and while they are listed for the vehicle I'm not sure if they will work. https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/trw/2197998

Hello gang, Does anybody know if the OE damper for the GTI was oil or oil/air based? I'm going to replace the fronts on the old girl, but there are so many after market (OE fit) options. Looking at some TRW's (JHM185T), which seem to be a standard replacement, but no real info on these. Cheers

Progress thread? Be happy to try keeping one going on the back burner

OK gang, so to close the loop on this. In my case I'd say without any doubt the problem was a dodgy coil pack. Swapping to a new crank sensor didn't help, although it was the most logical first step, because the ECU kept logging P0321 35-10. It wasn't until some time later that I read that a crank sensor code can show if there are other underlying issues. From the Ross Tech Wiki.. When an engine will not start due to mechanical (spark/fuel/compression/timing) related issues it is not uncommon to set a false G28 fault codes due to extended cranking with a no-start condition. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16705/P0321/000801 RE the emergence of check engine light, that was down to a cheap HAAS cam sensor that I replaced while I was at it - you know, for good measure. The fault code was specific to this sensor, so I had a very good idea what was going on. Turns out that was a waste of money and putting the old cam sensor back sorted that problem almost straight away. My coil pack and leads are HAAS and those seem fine. Hopefully this post is useful for anybody coming back later. Thanks for all help above. Gonna be sticking around, got a few jobs to do on the car. Want to keep it on the road TLDR - A crank sensor warning can show, even if the problem is elsewhere. Try the crank sensor first, if no joy, check the wiring and start looking elsewhere. If it cuts out at random and won't restart, well it might be worth looking at the coil pack.

Oh crap yeh, that is almost French thinking. Haha. Check engine light came on this morning. Bloody thing. Gonna investigate this afternoon. If it's the same code I'll clear it and keep an eye on it.

haha now it has basically all new ignition stuff (plugs, leads, coil) and crank + cam sensors. It feels healthy now under your foot. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. I guess 126k will do that to parts.

Thanks Rich. OK so, here is the damage... As expected VW absolutely robbed me for looking at it. None the less, it was actually quite a useful exercise because I now have a list of unrelated jobs to do (some a little pedantic, some not). TBH though, since I'd like to keep the car, this is fairly helpful. Anyway, when I got home I took some of the loom out, but it all looks to be in good nick. In a final act of desperation I walked over to my local motor factors and picked up 1) a new coil pack 2) a new cam sensor And guess what... Just drive 100 miles and not only does it go like a stabbed rat, no cutting out, no nonsense, back to it's old self - touch wood

When I might get it back tomorrow I might remove it and unwrap the tape/protective gubbins. I hope it should be possible to see where it is snagged, what do you reckon?

True, but it's very intermittent... I mean like I'm not totally sure it's that. I had hoped not to have to take the entire engine loom out, but it looks like that might be the stage I'm at... Rich was right about finding an auto electrician.

Yup, VW haven't got a scooby too what's up with it. lol

@Rich haha oh jeez - well I will learn the hard way I guess. Funnily enough it shat itself at precisely the moment I had to drive through Westgate tower in Canterbury. The bin men helped me push it out of the way in rush hour traffic, then it fired back up after I rustled around with the loom. @lupogtiboy ah.. bugger, so maybe it's wiring up there. Those little wires are especially frail up top and over to the cam sensor. I love how G28 kinda means something's knackered, but VW sort of use it interchangeably for crank/cam sensor, although clearly they are not the same thing. haha

Yeah I think thats fair Rich, I just had to do something and they're down the road.. so if no joy, then I'll have to find a mobile auto electrician. Pete, good shout. The loom really looks fine, but I know that doesn't necessarily mean it is.

Agree. I expect you guys nailed it RE wiring, but lets see.

Thanks Rich, appreciate the offer. I admitted defeat and have booked it in at VW. The main dealer in my area is pretty good in my area. They've had the car in for various bits in the past. I will post back!

Yeah the 106 had like two engines, three gearboxes and a beam rebuild. Handling was better and I think the JP4 conversion made it quicker, but I much prefer my loop. The maddening thing about the issue is that it'll do 20-30 miles fine, then die and refuse to start for an hour, or so. It really seems temperature related. I guess the loom could be damaged and it only causes an issue every so often. I think it'll be a nightmare to trace though.

Well against my and everybody else's guidance I ended up with a Facet unit. I didn't know this until I went to collect. TPS in my area didn't have one for a couple of days. ECP said Bosch, but when I turned up it was Facet... I didn't have the energy to argue. Sensor seems to function the same as the other though. There is no visible damage to the loom. I read the G28 error code can mean many things, not always caused by the crank sensor itself being faulty... At this point I'm considering a trip to VW. I'd say somebody familiar with interpreting the live data is needed. Car has new ignition leads, alternator, new fuel pump (well two years ago). I kinda expect the coil pack or fuel pump (again). My 106 gti use to do an almost indentical thing - cut out and refuse to start. That was a dicky pump, which was really hard to pin point because most of the time it was fine. So yup, either a trip to VW, or it's scrap. Lol.

Nope. Cut out after 9 miles. Hmmm. Still throwing this up...

Bit of an update. Changed the sensor, but then it wouldn't start! Put back the old one, but same situation.. turns but won't start. Got power, spark and fuel. All checked. Not a fuse. Alternator was new 6 months back. Battery is ok, checked with a multi meter. Had a cuppa, scratched my head and it finally fires up with the spare key, now it's fine on both keys! Any idea guys? Would this be anything to do with the ignition switch? I've heard they can go a bit weird and cause cutting out and starting issues.

Yeah man, I agree. Really *don't* want to take this apart again in a hurry.

On M25 Saturday 13th May, near junction 29 for Romford. Looked really smart, came up behind me... Silver GTI, which promptly cut out. haha.

Now to choose a brand for the sensor. I can have Facet, Bosch, Delphi, Vemo or Metzger. All vary massively in price. lol

Oh my f*cking word... That was horrific. I can't see anybody getting that out without removing things. If you've done it before you might if the car was on a ramp, but I think you'd need a mirror. Inlet off. Fuel rail. Throttle body. Only then did I realise you meant this little sucker... It was behind a rubber bung, which I could feel with my hands, but couldn't really make out. On the plus no corrosion thanks to the rubber thing. For anybody else that reads this the sensor appears to hold the bolt captive, so a little less worry once it's loose.. not exactly likely to drop back inside the gearbox (they at least thought that through). I need a stiff drink and to order a new sensor.

hehe thanks Rich. The cheeky lovely persons - why did they put it there. haha. What I like best about repairing my car in the street... a bit of public engine shagging. Tenner says I take 90% of the f*cking thing apart to get in there :-) PS. I had a 106 gti before this... nothing can be as bad as that!