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Posts posted by wehey
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Worth changing water temp sensor and thermostat.
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On 26/04/2018 at 9:47 AM, cj1 said:
Ahh okay, that makes sense now. I thought it meant a map for an engine that already had the EGR delete. Thanks for clarifying. Waiting for lead to arrive then I'll be trying the map out!
Still have the file and want to make a return on your purchase @wehey?
Indeed.....
i have a stock Blacksmoke 100hp map a modified map with about 110hp, but you need a good clutch for the latter.
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I did mine myself. Very easy to do and excellent results ?
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23 hours ago, rdstars said:
Looks like I changed the N18, I emailed a company who on there web site shows that as a N75. Looking all over the web that part comes up are an N75 for all other VAG.
That other part N75 ( N18 I thought it was ) looks a mare to change, it's not bolted on but some rubber grommets and got all those pain Clic clips attached. There even harder to find on ebay and cannot find them any where else for sale.
Just cleaned out the MAP and it's an original Bosh large probe. Got the part number and there £40 but not sure if that may cause the issue.
My MAF is a solid unit original Bosh but is missing the diode off the side ( but the MAF is not going to cause the boost to cut )
The MAP part no is: 038906051 But I cannot find the part number for the MAF.
So I may have to decide if to buy the N75 ( what I thought was the N18 ) and also a MAP sensor. Honestly give me a Pug/Cit DW10 motor any day, my 2nd ever Vag and not impressed with there issues they throw.
Reading through the link you sent Sausage, he had an injector problem, I don't understand though how an injector can cause the boost to cut. I did look at the deviation of the injectors and there was a difference, think No 1 was close to 0, No 2 was = 0.35 and No3 was + 0.3. So well with in the 1.2 tolerance and thats even with a Maf not 100%
I have a load of random bit left from my Tdi all off a working car.
if any are of any use then pm me and I can post them to you??
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Yeah I would invest in a lead and VCDS. I bought a cheap reader and although it seemed to work, it didn't detect any codes.
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Check it goes smoothly into 3rd gear with no crunches.
Do several quick 2-3rd shifts to be sure
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No sorry, only a few scraps left now
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Only a few bits left I'm afraid.
Alternator, turbo pipes .turbo, intercooler, abs pump, engine mounts, battery tray, dials, a few sensors, door panels, air vents.
Thats about it
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1 hour ago, Sausage said:
You got a Leaf?
Well spotted ?
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It's an app called "Road Trip"
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Car now sold
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I have for sale my lovely Seat Arosa 1.4 Tdi
I have had the car for nearly a year and have carried out loads of work to make it the great car it is today.
It's cheap to run and I get 60mpg all year round and only £0.08p per mile (see attached photo proof)
Only £30 road tax and cheap to insure.
It does have a remap to 110 hp but I can put the standard 75 hp map back onto it if you want.
Current mileage is 131K but these engines are fantastic and easily make it past 200K without problems. Just change the oil religiously every 7K and it will last you forever.
It has a Full Service History up to 126K which is when I got it.
Since then I have done the following:
2x New Wings
Oil/Filter change @ 127K
Diesel filter changed
Diesel purge
New air filter
Coolant changed
Gearbox oil changed
New clutch in July 2017
Underside wax-oiled including real axle and front subframe and rear side of new wings.
2 x new lower suspension arms (front)
New anti roll bar bushes
2 new front tyres
Rear tyres >5mm
Remap to 100hp
60mpg + (see attached photo)
£30 road tax
Cheap insurance
New stainless front de-cat
MOT until Feb 2018.
Passed last MOT with NO advisories
Service history up to 126K
Cam Belt changed at 103K
A few points to mention.
The switch on the driver side that operates the passenger window only goes up and not down although it work fine from the passenger side. I have a spare switch that is simple to fit.
The clutch is brand new but very, very occasionally you can hear the release bearing stick on the gearbox input shaft and you hear a small rattle. Dip the clutch and it goes.
This is not a problem and shouldn't be a concern.
Front brake discs are slightly warped which you can feel through the pedal when braking hard. It went through the MOT fine like this.
I have tried to be as honest as possible. I know this car inside and out as I do all my own mechanics. It will make someone a great cheap runaround.
I think it's very well priced at £750 and has to go soon as I have just brought a new car.
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Blimey that must have taken a lot of typing. Took me 5 mins just to scroll to the bottom.
Nice car ? I have always wanted one of these
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It a lovely car and don't take this the wrong way, but I think the price is way way off what it's worth.
Your into mint gti territory at nearly 3K
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47 minutes ago, danno said:
Towbar?
No. Dont have one of them, sorry
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On 19/07/2017 at 1:06 PM, Rich said:
http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/forum/78-breaking/
i suggest wahey as i like his tower bearing theory.
Just had a quick look at mine....
do you have to disconnect the steering column from the rack to get the peddle box out?
looks a bit of a mare
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You will need a spring and shock absorber for each corner and spring compressor to fit the front springs onto the front shocks.
The rears are easy to fit and pretty straightforward.
Fitting the front involves disturbing the camber settings and this will need setting back up correctly along with the tracking.
i managed to get my camber fairly accurately at home but ideally you would need a garage with the right equipment.
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Did clutch change yesterday as it was slipping quite bad with the aggressive map I am using.
The clutch arm had rusted through ?I've never seen this before!! It explains the weird clutch feel that the car has had since I have owned it.
lucky I had a spare!!
Clutch now feels great with no slippage.....
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13 hours ago, 67Oilcats said:
Are the three front grill sections and emblem available? If so how much posted?
They have gone now....sorry
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19 hours ago, Jibowski said:
does the car have central locking?
how much do you want for the passenger door?, no glass or window bits needed
Sorry for the lack of response, I'm not getting emails from this site for some reason ??
Yes the car does have central locking.
I need the doors to be the last bits to go before it goes to scrap really as the interior will get damaged when it rains. Can I message you nearer the time?
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52 minutes ago, Rich said:
the arosa is a dirty inferior animal.
I found more on the 'wehey bearing theory'. Google A2 shift bushings or something and you will find pictures and explanations.
It's funny you mention this coz it drove fine for ages after fitting and adjusting them.
Then one day I decided to tweak them some more and just couldn't find that sweet spot again.
I put the sloppy old bushings on the silver tdi and it shifts just fine.
From this I recon there's slop somewhere else in the chain which makes for a crunchy shift and it's not the gearbox at all
Maybe it's actually the gear lever that's the problem?? Dunno???
Think I'm only getting 45 pushing 50 to a gal
in Seat Arosa
Posted · Edited by wehey
Why do you say this?
I am trying to help you!
Have your fixed the problem?
It was a suggestion, something for you to try to solve the issue you have.