mike312

After the car threw a strop on Thursday night, shutting itself down, it was found to be the alternator that was causing all the problems. Had mine re-furbed put back on and the cars running brilliant.

Not sure but he said at my last service (september) that it needed doing why? could that cause this sort of problem?

My garage replaced the map sensor which is back left of engine, but it has made no difference ( p/n 036 906 051) so gonna save up for new throttle body next to see if it's that, but it's getting expensive this car.

Thats what i need to know if i can just buy the sensor its gonna be a lot cheaper than the whole body.

Mine rattles (and has every other common lupo fault) i think you might find its the small square block that is in the middle of the vent at the bottom of your windscreen. just get a small bit of black rubber or summat to jam it so it don't rattle.

I've got to take the car in on wednesday so now bricking it thinking i'm gonna need a new throttle body. The garage don't know until they get it off if you can swap the sensor on it's own or whether it's the whole body. Can anyone put me out of my misery and give me some prices or teccy help?

I ran either lassa impetus if i'm skint or vredesteins if i'm a bit flush. I go through a set of front tyres every 3 or 4 months and have tried allsorts bur the vredesteins are the best I've had, the grip is brilliant and somehow feels even better in the wet!

not sure it depends what the code above means, if it is broken I just need to prepare myself for the cost. It is the mas sensor that is faulty but i'm not sure if you can buy this on it's own?

Does anyone know the part number for the throttle body for a AVY engine? ta

Right, took it to the garage and he says it is throwing up a code 17549 load registration unlikely value? Now I know that is summat to do with the mas sensor but does anyone know if this needs replacing or is it because I've got a CDA on that could be throwing it out ( even though I've had it on a couple of years)?

Cleaned Throttle body with cleaner stuff and it seemed to be ok last night and this morning, but on my way home from work just now my engine electric warning light has come on! Car is running fine at the mo, will have to get it plugged in next week, problem is I need to drive it this weekend, hope it will be ok.

Ta, gonna go and clean the throttle body now before I drive to gf house see if that helps, Ill check any connections around that area.

I've just changed the spark plugs and coil pack so I don't think it's them.Temperaure sensor has been changed as well.

Right, today on the way to work I noticed when I came to a stop in some traffic the engine revs only settled down to 1000 rpm instead of the normal 750-800ish. Again on the way home intermittantly it did the same, no other bad stuff going on just that!?! When I got into the garage I tried revving it a bit and the engine settled back to 1000 but started getting higher! It got to about 1500 when I panicked and turned the engine off. I turned it back on again and it settled down at the usual 800 but when I revved it, it only went back down to 1000. Can any-one help?

I've got a set of focal components in the back and they sound great, gonna upgrade the fronts aswell. I bought a 10" sub (which I've never heard of) and an Alpine 2 chanel amp bridged to run it. The head unit is a high end Pioneer with 4 x 50w. People tell me it sounds ok, I think you've got to have very good hearing to tell the difference between a lot of systems. The main problem I get is my door cards rattling distorting the bass.

I've got some 'A's that are coming up for sale, about a year old as new (couple of little marks but no kerbing) 16" with flat caps. They looked great on the gti but rubbed on the back and I couldn't be arsed to get them rolled. Pics to follow.

Just out of interest it did make a difference I've put some NGK's in and it's not doing it anymore! woohoo

No I'm using Bosch Do you think thats the problem? The old leads didn't pop off

Yes I know where this is to my cost! It should come off with the steering wheel, it's in the recess at the back of the wheel as you pull the steering wheel off BUT BE VERY CAREFULL as I pulled my steering wheel off and the clock spring came apart I panicked and put it back together wrongly so every time I turned my wheel the horn went off a bit.So I got my friendly neighbourhood garage to get me a new one but it cost me £90! If you take the wheel off it a b$*?@%d to line back up again aswell the notches are so fine and of course to get the airbag off you have to turn the wheel from centre.

I paid £16 for the coil pack of ebay (+£4 p+p) and about £56 for the leads from VW (cus I wanted red ones!) One new problem now- and I'm sure I've seen it somewhere on this site, my leads keep popping out of the spark plug holes leading to the engine misfiring. Every time I stop I have to pop it back down again! Very Annoying!

Piece of cake! Moved the BMC out of the way, made a note of which lead goes to which plug and connection on the coil pack, took the electrical connector off (took the negative off the battery ten minues before all this) disconnected the spark plug ends, that just left the coil pack which just has three allen nuts to remove! Then just put all the new stuff on (nice new red leads) Clench buttocks when key turned but everything fine no juddering! great !

Tonight's the night for me, got a coil pack of 'Ebay and some leads from vw. Hope it's as simple as it sounds. will let you know how it goes.

I have tried to take the steering wheel off today using the how to section on the site, and i think my car's a one off cus it's nowt like the instructions. I got the air bag off eventually expecting to find a torx nut to take off as per the instructions but no, mine has a 24mm nut holding the wheel on! There are three small torx nuts but i'm not sure what they do. I got the nut off thinking that would give me access to the indicators/wiper stalks but all it did was release the wheel and reveal a springy wirey thing that i think has something to do with my horn? At this point i **** my pants and put it back together. Does anyone have instructions to take the wheel off to get to the stalks cus one on the 'how too' section won't load and the other isn't very clear?

Does anyone know the part number for the coil pack cus mines doing this and i obviously need it sorting? ta

Right, Just got home and stripped the lock mechanism down, it's fine. The light is still on the dash but it is fainter than normal, when you open the boot it comes on brighter. The wiper is still coming on sometimes so i've had to take the fuse out after checking them all. I've looked at the wiring in the boot lid and it looks fine (no bare wires.) I've even checked the wires at the boot hinge under the rubber boot as i changed the high brake light about 6 months ago. Just been thinking it might be a problem with the wiper that has manifested itself in a strange way? Could it be a problem at the stalk for the rear wiper? Who knows? Any suggestions?