Luppy Jack
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Posts posted by Luppy Jack
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Cheers for the suggestion koop!
I did think of this, but I can't find anything online about part numbers since elsaweb was taking down.
Tried giving TPS a ring to get them to check but they need chassis numbers
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hello there,
I'm in the process of repair my lupo which was written off (Cat C) last wednesday.
The damage to the car isn't as bad as initially thought, hopefully only need to replace track rod+end, and the part which the coilover and tie rod end both bolt onto, I believe to be called the steering knuckle.
My question is, is the steering knuckle exactly the same from the 1.4(2001) to my 1.0(2002)? (both are non-ABS)
Here is a picture of the part:
It's only the cast metal part I am interested in as I will probably change the calipers etc.. from mine should I find a cheap full hub from a breakers.
Many thanks in advance!
Jack
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Today I replace the plugs, cleaned the throttle body and inspected the MAP sensor(no obvious visible damage)
The engine management light has now disappeared
However, the EPC light is still on, this leads me to believe the MAP sensor and/or brake light switch need replacing.
My rear lights work when the brake is pushed, could the brake switch still be showing as faulty even though it appears to be working ?
Thanks again!
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Ah, well tbh I dead hear that MAP's are soooo much better than MAF's and you can even use K&N oil filters with MAPs whereas MAF's you can't.
How are you using TPS? it says trade only when I try and register
Shouldn't need to register buddy
just go along to your local tps and have a chat with them. Not quite sure I undersstand what you mean about MAP/MAF? is there a difference? I thought the only MAP sensor was located to the rear left under the rocker cover?Your on the right tracks, I would change the map sensor last they very rarely go wrong.
Cheers for confirming this for me mate
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remove and clean the EGR valve
Saw a guide on how to do this recently and forgot about it- cheers buddy!
Barometric is the MAP sensor
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16492/P0108
If the signs show it's that doing the sparks/ht leads might just be wasted money. It's always good to change them though
Yeah I saw that although the experienced VW mechanic that diagnosed it said he'd only ever changed one MAP sensor in his career, and said its more probable the sensor is receiving the wrong information caused by another issue (such as a misfire or throttle body) causing it to show up, if that makes any sense! I'll remove the MAP sensor and clean it got quoted £40 for a new one from tps
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Hi guys,
My loop has been surging on idle, (ie revving up and down slightly) and randomly losing power whilst driving.
Went to pick up my car today from my mechanic only to find it's too low to get in his garage
Anyway I got the diagnostic sheet and figured i'd have a go myself- the code is:
16492- manifold/barometric pressure sensor (G71)/(F96)
P0108 - 35-00 - signal too high readiness:1000 0101
Searching the code returns:
Possible Causes- Wiring and/or connections faulty (Short to Plus)
- Leak in intake and/or exhaust
- G71 and/or F96 faulty
- Control Module faulty
My plan of action is too-
Clean throttle body
replace plugs (haven't been done yet and at 52k)
Check all pipes not losing air
If this doesn't solve the issue:
Replace coilpack+ht leads
Replace manifold sensor
Does this plan sound sensible?anything missed?
Many many thanks,
Jack!
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Lupo's are quite notorious for having failing coilpacks so could be worth a check, however i'd have thought it would have given a fault code.
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Massive thanks for the replies gents-
I have been reading alot about throttle body issues, definitely looks like it's the next step to take when I find a guide on how to do it.
I did read the EPC common fault was the brake switch- but got a friend to check and the brake lights are working perfectly
I will be replacing the coilpack and leads just for peace of mind - thanks for the tip looks like genuine is the way to go I did see the rosstech link- not very specific on the problem but it seems to suggest an issue with the intake runner motor 2- of which I know nothing
I'll try the battery tonight
although it is the running issues i'm more worried about! -
Hello there
A few months back (when I had a timing belt changed) the mechanic said the diagnostic was showing dodgy coilpack which I planned on replacing but never got round too. It's been running fine on this coilpack with no lights coming on, however during the lastweek I have started to lose power, and both the EPC and the Engine check lights have come on and stayed on.
I had it diagnosed again today- this coilpack raised no errors so that seems intermitant, however there was one fault code (P1018) which im told is a problem with the inlet manifold.
I've search the internet but everything i've founded is pretty ambiguous, I wondered if anybody has previously had this problem/fault code or has any information on the inlet manifold.
Any help would be greatly appretiated!
Jack
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Sorry to see it like that!
Looking forward to see its recovery
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Looking foward to seeing how this progresses
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White steels on jazz blue look sweet
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I did a trial run on compare the market; declared wheels, suspension changes, full bodykit, spoiler, air filter and modified exhaust system and the premium only went up by £200.00... not nearly as much as I was expecting
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Welcome
Looks like a smart example, good luck with your test!
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Weight saving seconded-
eg rear seats, spare wheel, clueless boyfriend, door cards..
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Why on earth would you want to do that?
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Blown away seeing this for the first time Sunday,
Loved the VW mat such a quality touch
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Great vid mate, looking forward to the future videos
Looking at getting a waffle weave any brands you recommend?
Cheers
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I'd suggest browsing through the member's cars section, as asking for the best brand of wheels is like asking how long is a piece of string?
(The wheels you have pictured will look shite imo
)As for what coilovers thats also difficult to answer without knowing what your budget is...
Jack
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Just cleaned the lupo to find quite a surprise,
I recently rolled my archs using a proper roller and plently of heat, and thought I made a decent job of it..although after seeing this i'm not convinced!
Need advice on best way to proceed to prevent it cracking/rusting/bubbling, was always going to flat and hammerite the hidden lips, but unsure what to do with the cracks in the picture as they're very close to the arch face
Thanks!
Jack
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Out of curiosity, if your car flies through the MOT no problem, who pays, you I assume?
You shouldn't have to pay for an MOT retest (unless it fails of course) just because some copper finds out his wife is shagging his best mate behind his back and decides to go all arsey with every individual he meets.
yeah you have to pay for the privelege of the retest, good job mine only had about 3 months until it expired
Yeah you pay, don't think you are refunded etc which is a joke. Best advice I think is to not give them a reason to pull you, drive safe etc. If your low with wheels poking out your arch/illegal hids etc there going to be more likely to pull you and hope they can do you for 3 bald tyres and no insurance as well as saying your car isn't roadworthy due to lows or excess poke.
Unfortunately I've found the police are always right even when they are wrong. You will only ever win if you go to court and most people are scared at that thought so just give it and pay fines etc it's quite sad really
Totally agree, but I can honestly say I do drive pretty sensibly my license is too valuable to me to drive like a dick
My car is very oem, apart from the banded steels, aswell as maintained so not really any issues on that front. All my mods are declared, hence paying silly money to insurance a 1litre.I also get this feeling aswell bud! I've kept the pink ticket in my car so if I get stopped again after i've sorted the issue I shouldn't have any problems.
who'd recommend flaring as opposed to camber or both?
How much tyre wear should I expect with very small negative camber? (like I said driven sensibly so not much heavy cornering etc..)
A little worried about losing the profile of the arch one the flaring starts
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yeah i met sophie at macdonalds afterwork as she was heading home i was heading to college. i think i did see nathan in the drivethru. were you with him?
yeah iv edited it
its got over 60 watching it and had a few emails and messages. Just got to see what happens. If not i will stick it up for 2500 in the classifieds... it should definately sell for that much.Yeah the golf will get there eventually
think nathan wants to see it when its running anyway so will pop out one night in the summer for a spinMust be a killer going to college at night haha? yeah I was with nathan
I'd had thought you'd have easily got 2600 for it no doubt it would go for 2500 in classifieds
Yeah man definitely, im sure ill see the progress of it on here but let me or nay know when you're ready to show it off
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I was on my way back from the station after beig told I can drive again haha, you were coming round the McDonalds/morrisons roundabout about 6ish with the mrs I assume
Haha I can imagine it too be annoying looking forward to seeing the progress on the golf! hopefully it'll go this time then bud, I assume they don't know it just won best gti 2012 get that ebay listing edited!
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Sounds like I caught him on a bad day then, ill put that one down to experience and hopefully have no more trouble once I flare the arches! Also considering a smal amount of camber if I can't get the clearance from flaring, but trying to avoid this as much as possible
Thought you might haha, I'm the guy who came to pick them up with him, saw you in the loop down derby last night, still had no luck with the sale?
Help needed!
in Car Care, Maintenance and Mechanical
Posted
I recently bought a 1.7sdi about a month ago, and had no problems during a 200 mile trip last week.
However, I went out in the car last night, at which point the red engine coolant light came on the dash.
I've read this is overheating, however the temp gauge was sat low when it came on (roughly 80's), and there is enough coolant in the tank.
Unfortunately I haven't got access to a vagcom where I am and am pretty scared to drive it!
Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Thanks
Jack.