Cooper_GTI
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Posts posted by Cooper_GTI
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I'm not sure what you're asking here, so i'll do my best
Though i see no reason why Corsa rear dampers couldn't be adapted to work on a Lupo, although the top mounts are different i'm sure, so you'd have to try and bodge it.
i think that's what you're asking...
When you say aftermarket, do you OE or lowered/shortened shocks? A standard replacement part is exactly that, a like for like. An uprated shock (i.e. spax) will be a bit shorter to account for the lowering springs to take the slack out of them and prevent them falling out when you jack it up.
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Bit of advice, do away with the power cap, they put extra strain on your charging system.
Looks good though!
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Did you use the vw stuff or get some from somewhere else.
Doesn't have to be VW.
Be cheaper to get it from a motorfactors. Can't remember what oil it takes, think it's EP80/90. Make sure you use the right one!
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If your budget is any less than about £250-£300, just get the cheapest coilovers you can find, cus they're all made in the same factory.
TA, JOM, raceland - they're al the same
Edit - to tell you the truth, even the so-called 'non-budget' coilovers are still crap. I have AP's, and although the ride is a little more forgiving (too soft IMO), the seals all weep oil and they do not sell separate servicing kits.
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I doubt it's a case of adjustment to be honest. If it were, you'd be struggling with 1st, 3rd and 5th, as there is only one rod that moves the selector forwards/backwards.
Time for a new box imo. No biggy really, they're fairly cheap, easy to change and it's a god time to stick a new clutch in it too.
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Matching the revs will just help it slip in and i thought you could maybe use it as a permanent fix to be honest. You can actually change gear without a synchromesh at all using the above method and dumping the clutch between shifts.
Although a dodgy sychro normally shows itself by crunching gears.
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Synchromesh i'd guess at.
Throw another box in it.
Lack of gear oil shouldn't really affect the engaging of the gears i wouldn't have thought, it's just there to lube/cool the bearings.
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Could be a whole manor of things;
- Clutch
- Shift cable adjustment
- Synchromesh
- You're not pushing hard enough
- Driving style
Try double 'D' clutching for a smoother downshift. Or even just a quick blip of the throttle on the downshift will help to match engine speed with gearbox speed.
If you're unfamiliar with this, here's a quick rundown;
You're in 4th gear at 2000rpm and theres a sweeping corner coming up.
You brake gradually and the revs drop to 1500rpm and feel the need to shift down to 3rd.
Push the clutch in and as you move the gearstick forward (through netutral and into 3rd) blip the accelerator slightly, to roughly where you think the engine revs will be when you're actually in third. (probably around 2000rpm again).
The way i normally do is to rev past the point (i.e. 2500rpm), as by the time you've slipped in from 4th to 3rd, the revs have normally dropped to where youwant them to be.
It's a good way to drive and i do this every time i downshift, no matter what car i'm in. Takes a bit of practise, but once you've got it sussed it makes for a brilliantly smooth drive, as well as less wear on the gearbox, clutch and driveshafts. Then you can incorporate heel and toe braking, although this isn't necessary for the road.
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Even if it did fit, it wouldn't be worth the hassle.You'd gain somewhere in the region of 0bhp.
A regrind of our standard cam however, may yield some results, but a remap will be needed afterwards. You may gain around 3-4bhp. With a 4 branch manifold, decat, filter, cams and remap, on your 1.0L you'll be looking at up to a 10bhp increase. Expect to pay upwards of £1000 for all of the above.
Scrap the 1.0L engine and fit a 100bhp sport lump.
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Do you mean they struggle to move over the windscreen when travelling at speed, or have they just stopped working altogether?
If it's the former, that's pretty normal. over 100mph mine just don't work.
If it's the latter, check fuses, if fuses are all good, check earth on the motor under the scuttle, if thats okay, you'll need a new motor.
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Maybe you should consider lifting it an inch or so? It's not easy to snap an ARB, which is obviously a side effect of being stupidly low.
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The S2's use a 280mm disc if i remember correctly?
I'm after something larger, as brake fade really becomes apparent with my current 280's.
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Even the cheaper JBL stuff is brilliant. A JBL GT5, powered with about 500rms in a good ported box will blow most vibe stuff out of the water.
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I don't think they'll fit, as Rado's use the same rear setup as a Mk2, which is incorporates the shock and spring together, like a macpherson, not a separate shock and spring like a Lupo...
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Do you plan on upgrading the master cylinder for the 312's? I'd guess that you'll lose all feeling and the pedal travel may be a bit long...
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So you're saying that these 312mm calipers actually bolt straight onto the Lupo GTI hub, other than having to machine 5.5mm off the face of the carrier?
That also means you could fit the R32 twin pots, which use a 345mm Disc!!!
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The pads you've bought will be fine. Just send the discs back and buy either G60/ibiza cupra discs. Any 4-stud 280mm disc should be fine. You can get them cheap enough from GSF, but if you want drilled/grooved, then best get them off the net, as any 'normal' parts shop will sting you for them!
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When you say 'all you need to do is drill 2 holes', are you referring to the 2 holes that bolt to the hub (the ones with the red square in the picture)?
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First car was a Mk2 MR2, with some green and some red panels. Bought it for £300, then after a couple of months, converted it to Turbo with 245bhp. Someone crashed into it while it was parked up, so i broke it for spares.
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I'm pretty sure that in a straight line race, the performance difference between a standard GTI and a mapped TDI would be neglible.
The TDI would certainly be more useable, with all that torque coming in at around 2000rpm, whereas the GTI doesn't do much till 5000rpm.
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Could just be the backing plate catching the disc. That makes a rather disconcerting noise, but is about as serious as a gibbon on a stick.
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Sounds like it's blowing.
I'm not even sure the standard backbox has got any packing in it...? It sounds pretty hollow when you knock it.
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In the Midlands, go and see John Ashley Exhausts (JAEX) in Walsall.
Tell him Matt from Coventry sent you and he'll sort you out. He's a good lad and has done a GTI before (mine).
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Geometry check.
All good advice, above. I'll add my 2 pence;
I fitted new ball joints to my GTI after i'd changed the clutch. They were a non-genuine part form GSF.
After i'd built up the hubs, the tracking was now MILES out, so i tried to track it up using pieces of string.
I ran out of adjustment and the wheels were both pointing in. Turned out that the GTI runs a different ball joint to the non-gti, which in turn gave me a load of toe-in.
Could it be maybe that you've fitted an incorrect suspension component somewhere, such as ball joint or track rod end, or maybe it's been like this since you had it, and the crash has just made you more conscious of it?
Don't listen to what the garage are telling you about lowered cars. Just cus you've lowered it doesn't mean the wheels can't both point forward and in the same direction! My guess is that you took it to Kwik-fit or somewhere like that, where they'll fob you off with any old story. They might just not have been able to get the track rod arm loose, so condemned it and told you it was a fault with the car...
GTi miles to a tank
in Volkswagen Lupo
Posted
My best was 280 miles to a tank.
My worst (now it's 1.8t) is 70 miles to a tank. I'd even pressed the special button on this occasison too, but was at an airfield day. Average of around 10mpg. Lol.