Cooper_GTI
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Posts posted by Cooper_GTI
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How heavy was the transit van? Was the hand brake off?
It was a short wheel base high roof tranny, full of tools and some old window/door frames. I'd say it must be getting on for 2 tonnes, maybe a bit more?
Yes, the handbrake was off, but it was pulling up a very slight incline. I was limited to first gear only, but as soon as he tried to bump the van in second the Lupo would come to a standstill pretty quickly, even when i was flat out in first.
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I have a train horn fitted.
No joke! 120psi on-board compressor and horns from a Class 37 Diesel Loco.
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My gti wouldn't pull a transit van. I just about managed to get it off the line, with lots of clutch smoke, then i grabbed second and it just stalled.
So in answer to your question, it's a definite no!
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A brand new linkage (there are 2 of them) is only about £10.
But good bodge Bep51!
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I'm guessing you haven't yet attempted it?
Removing the scuttle is pretty easy. I also had to fix a wiper linkage on my GTI and there were no special tricks or tips to getting to them.
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The one question you need to answer is;
Does it use water?
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White smoke indicates water vapour, which, as said, is probably down to the head-gasket.
If the oil and water are still clear, then the gasket has blown between between a waterway and the cylinder. If it's drinking water, or the oil is yellow or the water is brown, then that'll give you 100% clarification.
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Not bad by any means, but i'm sure there are better for the money...
If you could get it for around £3500-£3750 then it'd be a different story.
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You could always get a cable made up? The nipples are only soldered on the ends, so if you're handy enough, you can make one yourself!
But Hydro is probably the better way to go.
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I'm running the K04 creation motorsport turbo inlet pipe. It's very well made (blatent copy of the badger 5 item) and gave a noticeable power increase.
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Ditto.
It'll help prvent unwanted water ingress into places you can't clean, which leads to premature rotting.
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Why not just get the OMP one and weld/bolt in a harness bar?
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Could be crank sensor, could be immboliser problem or even a odgy fuel pump.
It won't be the actual crank itself though. Get the ECU read and it should tell you.
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Under arm bush?? Are you talking wishbone bushes? You may aswell change the whole arm bud to be fair. It can be a right ball ache messing around with bushes, when the arm is probably no more than £20.
I can't remember what size the wishbone bolts are, but it won't be anything too obscure and the size you need will certainly be in a socket set. Either 13, 14, 15, 17, 18 or 19, i'm guessing.
if you're changing the whole arm, a ball joint splitter would be a good idea. Other than a socket set, a splitter and a metric socket set, you're good to go mate. Oh, and a hammer to knock the arm out of the subframe and a screwdriver to line it back up again!
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Best go hydraulic mate, as i'm guessing that's what you car is already? My GTI certainly was.
You can get the 02A with both hydraulic and mechanical clutch mechanisms i'm sure. Then it's just a case of whatever clutch cable fits... Probably the standard one?
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I fail to understand why people want carbs when ITBs are better in every way
Because of cost?
I used to run webers on my old 20XE and the whole setup was less than £500 and coupled with cams and an SBD manifold i was 25bhp and 45lb/ft up on standard. Pretty good as far as n/a tuning goes if you ask me.
You're looking at the best part of £1k just for the bodies, plus mapping time, plus management etc.
But i do agree, on a fuel injected engine, throttle bodies are better in every way, other than the noise! ;-)
I've never been in anything running bike carbs or bike bodies though...
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I went for a BAM, but you will find that the BAM/AYP fetch higher prices, due to having a K04 turbo, forged pistons/crank and just generally they're more desireable, what with their 225bhp/210bhp as standard.
I'm running mine stage 2, which equates to 285bhp (3" downpipe, fmic, 3" tip, filter etc) and it is absolute overkill, but it's great fun. The way i saw it was that if i'm going to go through all the hassle of carrying out the conversion, why not do it properly for the sake an extra few hundred quid on an engine.
You're quite right in expecting an AUM (late 150bhp) or AUQ (180bhp) to hit the right side of 200bhp with just a remap. Stage 2 expect a little more, maybe 220bhp, but that's the limit of a standard K03s.
In my opinion, you want to be looking for something with a K03s, as the K03 will only allow upto around 180bhp reliably. Also, with regards to the comment above, i really wouldn't let the big port head sway your decision on. A standard small port head head will flow over 400bhp, so it has no bearing on anything really. Although the AGU will probably be one of the cheaper engines to buy, along with the ARZ, which is also 150bhp.
Power limit wise, a BAM will take up to around 300bhp, then with a change of rods, will take up to around 400bhp. The other 1.8t's take considerably less, maybe upto around 250bhp. Although there is speculation as to whether the AGU has forged internals or not. Personally, i suspect not.
I also went for an 02A gearbox (code: CTN), which again, is from a tdi to give more relaxed ratios. I went this route as it's hydraulic clutch and cable change, to match the standard GTI box, which made life a bit easier and 70mph in 5th is around 2250rpm. ...Yes, that gives a theoretical top speed of nearly 180mph and i have no reason to believe it wouldn't pull it either!
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As said, bogg bros will sort you a manifold. I'd be more inclined to go with a pair of weber 40's to be honest. It's easier to get them setup, spares/chokes/jets are easier come by and they just sound so much better!
Look up lumenition. They'll be able to sort you out with the ignition side of things.
Expect a nice big hike in torque and bhp, especially if you've got a decat/manifold.
Another option, which may be cheaper, is to get a standard inlet manifold (i've got a metal GTI inlet you can have), cut the inlet tracts off and jubilee some silicone hose onto them, which you can then attach to a set of r1 carbs.
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Just bear in mind, if you can't get your car onto the MOT testers ramps, it's an instant fail...
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Or a slight indifference in the tyre catching the arch liner?
I don't understand how it can be so hard to find it, it must be something really obvious. Especially if it doesn't do it when it's jacked up, as this means it's down to something roational that changes geometry when it's lifted. I.e. wheel & shaft.
Jump on the M1, drive to mine and i'll find it for you free of charge!!
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If the noise can be heard from outside the car then it'd not a wheel bearing. It'd be more likely to be the backing disc as you say.
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£3500-£3750
My old lupo is on ebay (i part ex'd it), but....
in Volkswagen Lupo
Posted
Typical dealer - Only mention the good things, brush over the bad things.