Cooper_GTI
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Posts posted by Cooper_GTI
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In what way does it look different mate?
The ones in the pics look like standard ISO block connectors, which should just plug straight into your head unit and everything should work.
Dont worry too much about the Seat colours not matching up with the clarion colours.
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Its a fairly quiet, but abrupt, eletrical sounding chirp. I like it!
The only other thing you can change (that im aware of) is making the doors auto-lock when you reach 15mph, but they dont auto-unlock when you stop!!
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2.0 though are they not? Big difference to a pissy 1.4.
Yeah, that must be it.
Theres no replacement for displacement!
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Thats how it goes with small N/A engines i guess, unless you have the knowledge and time to turbo/supercharge yourself etc.
Yes, i agree, but in this instance it seems daft to spend that kind of money for 10bhp.
On my old C20XE redtop engine (150bhp), i fitted some reground cams (£165), then some weber 45's and a 4-1 manifold with decat. This got me 187bhp. That came to approximately £1000, but it was definitely worth it! In an 1993 astra, it ran a 14.4 @96!
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So for the best part of a grand you gain 10%?
That, to me, seems like a false economy.
Bike carbs and cams would surely be a better way of getting power for a similar price, if not cheaper?
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Mmm, thats strange! I must admit, i'd heard a lot of good reviews on F1's, which was why i thought i'd give em a chance.
I had them on a 2.0 16v mk2 golf, that had been set up for track use at Stealth racing.
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i was runnin 110bhp with ashley racing manifold, decat, & custom cat back with a BMC, on a 2003 57000 miles Arosa sport, should give rough ideas of power gains.
What power is a standard Arosa sport? 75bhp or 100bhp?
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T1-R's are brilliant tyres.
I use nothing other than Toyo's on all my cars.
Eagle F1's struggle somewhat in the wet, at least that's what i found at Mallory Park. The toyo's really needed pushing hard to induce some controllable understeer, whereas the F1's were just scary!
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Shal we tell him about the secret button?
Come again...?
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im tempted to get a bastuck for my arosa, except the fact that they are 380 quid!! or 500 odd from kam
i mite get a scorpion but they are only a 50.8mm bore whereas the bastuck is a 63mm. but scorpions cost 300 quid.
only thing is my de-cat section is about 50mm bore, and ive heard that if the bore changes in the exhaust then you can lose performance? in other words you should keep it the same all the way though?
You're exhaust will be as resrictive as the smallest part of the system. You would gain nothing from having a 63mm diameter, being as there is a bottle neck in the decat section.
This is why mandrel bent tubing is best, as the bends retain the original diameter and dont restrict flow as much as normally bent pipe, which shrinks by a few mill on every bend.
2" is more than enough for 100bhp.
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Got it on yet?!?!
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I assume one is multi-point-injection, the other is maybe single point injection?
MPI for me any day of the week!
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Doesn't having no back pressure decrease torque though?
No, but having an exhaust with too large a diameter pipe will effectively shift the power way up top, making it nigh on unuseable. It's a trade off.
Bigger bore pipes shift the power band to the top, smaller bore pipes shift the power down the rev range. I think there is some confusion when people use the term "back pressure". The exhaust should be as free flowing as possible, but of a reasonable diameter to retain some low down power (perceived as torque).
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Do the leathers come with the heating loom??
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Simple method.
Since you're running an SDI, you don't have standard rear speakers.
If you're not running 6 x 9's and simply have the ones in the front, wire the second set up as rear speakers, head unit should cope with that fine.
Thats not a bad idea.
I really dont understand why you went to the hassle of fitting 2 pairs of coaxial door speakers though? It will be louder, but it'll sound awfull. The sound stage will be right down low and it will no doubt sound muddy and lifeless, like most coaxials do.
You're best bet would be to invest in some 2 way components, amped up, for a far superior sound. Believe it or not, they would probably be much louder than your 2 sets of coaxials too!
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but I'm likely to do it anyway out of curiosity, and to check everything's running as it should, mainly back pressure.
Thats a myth. The only engines that need back pressure are 2 strokes.
Get them exhaust gasses out of that chamber as fast as possible!
Please get some vids up of the Bastuck when it's on! Have you gone the decat route too?
Also, how much was the chip and did it make any noticeable difference? Mines a 2001 as well you see!
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The simplest method would be to run one amp.
If you run 2 amps, you will need to set them up to run perfectly in sync with each other using a machine called an ocsilliscope. You dont really want all that hassle for no real gain.
Make sure you buy a 2 channel amp that is 2 ohm stable, with about 100w RMS per channel @ 2 ohms.
When buying an amp, make sure it a brand you've heard of, and ALWAYS LOOK FOR THE RMS POWER RRATINGS! Max power means naff all!
Another option is, to buy a 4 channel amp and use the first 2 channels as i described above, and the second 2 channels bridged to run a sub.
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If i've understood you correctly...
You have modded your door cards to accept 2 speakers in each one?
If this is the case, you cannot simply wire them up together due to the different resistance (ohms) that you will load the head unit with.
Let me explain!
Each speaker is 4 ohms, if you wire 2 speakers together (in parallel), the resistance will drop to 2 ohms. Now there are only a select few head units that will happily run at 2 ohms. Most are only stable down to 4 ohms.
If you wire them in series, you will be getting 8 ohms on each side, which will mean the power from the head unit is halved (i.e. if it kicks out 25w rms @ 4 ohms, it will only put out 12.5w rms @ 8), meaning that each speaker will be receiving a whole 6 watts!!!
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I normally get about 200 miles of town driving to a tank of Tesco 99RON momentum (121.9 ish per litre)
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I have access to a full Vag-Com setup and am wondering what features of the Lupo can be adjusted.
I managed to get the car to lock itself when travelling above 15mph and also got a "chirp" on it when the doors are locked with the fob.
Is there anything else like that??
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Is the throttle body clean/air filter?
Just had a service, inc oil, air filter, plugs etc.
Havent checked the throttle body though... Can that cause rough running?
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Always ran on Momentum 99RON or V-Power...
I know what you mean though, it's nowhere near optimum performance when its on 95 RON!
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...you also have a thread open regarding a performance fault with your GTI, so unless you have driven another, how can you compare?
Had it in at VW yesterday, who said there was nothing wrong with it. It drives really nice.
Apparently they can all be juddery at certain rev ranges.
And suprisingly, they didnt charge me...
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Lightning audio aren't a bad budget brand to be honest.
They were one of the better brands, once sold by halfods.
They dont claim to handle tens of thousands of watts, instead give true RMS figures.
I had an amp made by them (bolt 150.2) and it was great for the money!
Stick ithe sub in a ported box and it should drop nicely.
Bastuck full exhaust system
in Tuning
Posted
A chap i know has got a polo gti running bike carbs and reground cams (using a 1.4 head)