Cooper_GTI
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Posts posted by Cooper_GTI
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An extra battery in the boot wouldn't be a bad idea, but not strictly necessary, unless you plan on competing?
A good battery up front and 0 gauge cabling throughout should see you maintain 12v as a minimum.
If you decide to go with 2 batteries, dont bother with a split charge relay, just run it off the other battery.
Dont bother with a power cap either. They're a massive waste of money. They actually put more of a strain on the batt/alternator than running without one because you are constantly trying to charge the cap,whereas, the charging system will at least get a break between bass notes without one.
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Its called EDL according to the handbook and it seems to be a bit like an lsd. Electronic differential lock.
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Plug it in to vagcom mate. A local VW specialist should be able to do it for you.
That will tell you if there are any fault codes built into the ECU.
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They look awesome mate!
Is that proper carbon material, or is a film? Looks a bit dull?
Will you do mine if i send them to you?
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I cant actually work out exactly what is going on in that photo... Lol
Go and jump in it, then take a pic of yourself!
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****, that looks deep mate!
How much snow did you have?
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It's the ABS locking the diff, mine did it too until I stopped the ABS.
Stopped the ABS?!?!
Do tell...
Yes, according to the mnanual, it has "EDL" (electronic diff locking), which i think, locks the diff when wheel spin is detected.
Is it to do with the ABS then?
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Has anyone experienced some funny sounding moans and groans from their GTI in the snow?
When the wheels start to spin and the EDL kicks in, it sounds like something is about to break!
I assume it is just the diff locking up, trying to get traction on both wheels.
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I've put a 1.6 8v in my 1.0e
What engine is that? The mk2/mk3 golf engine?
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I'd put money on it being the hydraulic lifters.
Whip the cams out, pull the lifters out and give them a good clean.
You can often pull out the centre part of the lifter, empty out all the old oil, clean them up in turps, then build them back up, making sure they're full of oil when put the centre back in.
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Sorry, a bit off topic, but where did you get the Volt meter from, and how did you mount it?
I cant justify spending £40 on a Stinger one!
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Nope it doesn't hang down low, it fits in the same way and in the same place as the old exhaust, just had some fine fettling done today on a ramp so we could get it perfectly central. Will dispose of provided exhaust clamps as these are rubbish and already started replacing these with uprated items so there's less movement.
Results from RR day today: I have same bhp but more mid-range torque, so now instead of top torque coming in at 5000rpm its now 3000rpm which is better and more realistic for a daily driver.
Next move might be fast road cams as I've hit the top limit for naturally-aspirated
Was the bastuck just a Cat back system?
You're best bet would be to go with a 4 branch manifold and decat to make it as free flowing as possible.
Then look at the induction side of things. Get some nice cold air feeds into the standard airbox with an uprated panel filter.
not until i'd done the above would i begin to look at cams.
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I believe someone said in another thread that someone built a Lupo track car with a C20XE engine in. Now that's cool! "redtop Lupo maaaaaaate"
Awesome!
Someone local to me was retro-fitting a C20LET into a 6B polo! Never finished it though!
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I think a PD150 or a more modern 2.0TDI 170bhp would be about the best for a daily driver!
Both can be mapped for nigh-on 200bhp, with 400lb/ft of torque! YES PLEASE!
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Any pics of GTI's with no adjusters in?
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A ball joint splitter is a good idea, but it can be done without one. A hammer of the lump variety is the best bet!
If you do buy one, try and get one that you screw up, rather than one you simply hit. Or even better, get both!
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You can't use reground cams in this engine due to the rocker design
Why would this mean you cant run reground cams? I had a reground cam in an AX GT which used roller rockers, in the same way the GTI does, just without the VVT.
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I'm not sure there is a direct relation?
Peak power is not so much a measure, more of a marketing technique...
The ACTUAL max power from an amp is more than likely going to be encountered when the amp is run at the least resistance it is stable to, with the highest voltage input. But this max figure is a true one and is measured in RMS.
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ive spent about £500 to get 10BHP which seems alot, but thats assuming i hadnt lost any BHP from standard.
Although the £500 will be well spent when combined with future mods
Why would you assume you had lost power from standard?
You often find they gain power as things loosen up.
N/A tuning isnt cost effective at all. £500 would get you 60-70bhp on most turbo'd cars.
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Who's got a TypeR?? ???
I think the sig kind of gives it away...
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Surely the Typ-R harrasses it, and then some!?! Lol
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No, you bumba-clarte! Lol
I mean when you switch the ignition off!
Any anti hijack alarm i've ever had, has auto-unlocked when you switch the ignition off to aid getting out the car! And also, if you crash, the doors will unlock via the inertia switch.
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I have now fitted the Clarion HU but it appears to lose it's preset station memory when ignition is switched off for a period of time
but there is a wire in A4 (Brown with Red trace) which should be 12v permanent On the Clarion part of the loom, swap the red and yellow wires. Red is ignition live, yellow is permanent.
Dont worry about all the left over wires mate. Just plug it in, swap the red and yellow and forget about it.
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It's probably not a Lupo 1.4 head.
Are you sure he's running bike cams and not running ITB's?
Nope, definitely bike carbs. I drilled out the main jets to 2.0mm for him.
Not sure you'd want to run bike cams though... Lol
GTI in the snow
in Volkswagen Lupo
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But at least with ABS, you can slam the brakes on and you still able to steer.
If you skid without ABS you definitely cannot steer!