Cooper_GTI
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Posts posted by Cooper_GTI
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On the front you'll have to press in the new 5 stud drive flange from something like a Polo 9N.
On the rear I'm pretty sure you can run a complete 5-stud Polo stub axle.
Just bear in mind you'll need to either re-drill your current discs, or fit some calipers/discs off a 5 stud car too which could get complicated...
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Looking good mate. With regards to the shafts, make sure you get the length right - I found out the hard way that if you don't, it will be graunchy and chew CV's.
What direction are you going with the mounts? Mk4 drivers side and stock drivers, with a modified dog-bone?
As an owner of 2 x turbo Lupo's (a BAM GTI and an AGU K03s 1.0L) if you have any questions or need any pictures give me a shout - always happy to help.
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With any luck it'll seize up and he can do a 1.8t conversion. Problem solved.
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Make sure the oil pressure switch is working correctly and is not earthing out anywhere
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I don't see that the 10w60 oil is the route of the problem...
When the 10w60 oil is cold it has the same viscosity as the 10w40 and all cars have MORE oil pressure when they're cold. Typically 4-5BAR cold and 1.5-2BAR hot (on tickover).
As soon as the engine starts to warm up and oil temp increases, conversely the oil pressure decreases, due to thinner oil.
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Yep, oil pressure gauge is a good start.
Is it possible that using the thicker oil is putting extra strain on the pump which is causing the oil pressure to drop. Maybe your oil issues would be fixed by some decent 10w40?
1.4's always rattle a bit, just drive it carefully from cold and you'll suffer no issues.
There's no way that it can really put extra strain on the pump, after all, it's powered directly from the crank... If the crank is spinning, then so is the orbital oil pump gear.
He's saying it only happens on full load, which is really weird, as that's when the oil pressure should be at it's highest, even with the pressure relief valve stuck wide open it should be making a few BAR of pressure at high revs - it'd be tickover where the pressure would be low.
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My offer is £120 cash on collection.
This is taking into consideration:
One is buckled and doesn't hold air
One of the tyres is pretty much shot
They have surface rust and need painting
They have no centres or wheel nut covers?
I don't pay scene tax
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10w60 does seem a little thick. I find it hard to believe the engine will even hot warm enough to bring the viscosity of the oil down to a reasonable level. But even so, this doesn't explain why the oil pressure is low. If anything, it should be higher due to the thicker oil.
Fit an oil pressure gauge.
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No, I don't buy into your mechanics theory.
Maybe the oil relief valve on the oil pump is sticking/faulty?
There is no way you can get your oil thin enough to drop the oil pressure enough to make the light come on.
On previous vauxhalls i've built, the oil light came on at about 6psi. But a healthy engine should be running a good 30psi on tickover and about 60psi at high revs when warm. So if you're telling me you're getting less than 1bar I'd be looking at piston rings.
If it were me, I'd fit a capillary oil pressure and oil temp gauge. You'll know for certain then!
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I'm after the following parts for my 1.0 Lupo.
Grill
The colour coded (red) plastic panel below the grill that the indicators sit in
Passenger headlight with clips all in-tact
Based in Coventry, but will cover postage.
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Ah right: I read Lupo GTI in your profile notes and assumed.
There's a couple of GTIs breaking. Have you checked with them?
I'm after some fairly locally ideally. I've found some about 10 miles away, but he wants £70 for the pair which I thought sounded steep?
Looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and pay it though.
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Calliper carriers are bolted on so can be removed.
Nope, not on this little 1.0 Lupo I have.
It's 235bhp with 239mm brakes at the minute!
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I'm looking for some hubs which don't have the carriers built in and will accept a 256mm caliper.
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Having just done a bit of Googling, you're absolutely correct. You learn something everyday. I always believed the lack of fuel would cause the turbo to overheat.
Correct you are and I've learnt something today
Still don't agree regarding the MAF lark.... or with Cooper.It was an oiled filter.
You obviously have no idea how a turbo works... Can you imagine putting fuel in a metal housing that reaches over 1000 degrees...?
And yes I know you're on about an 'oiled filter'. You should put oil on all aftermarktet air filters... Whether it be a foam oem replacement or an open cone filter. Dust, dirt and micro-particles stick to the oil, preventing it getting through the filter.
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To the OP, you'd be best off measuring the inlet pipe (where the K&N would fit) and just buying a generic filter off ebay which is of the correct diameter.
I'd say the Polo 1.4TDI kit would probably fit as it's an identical engine, but the 57i kits are expensive so you'd be best off buying a second hand cone filter on ebay.
All this about oiled filters ruining your MAF isn't true - nor will you ever "knacker your turbo" from running an open air filter.
Although, don't expect to get any performance gains from it - just more noise!
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Get a spanner that fits over the square part of the lid. Probably about 17mm or something.
If you still can't get it off, try getting the car warm first to make the plastic a bit more malleable - you'll stand a better chance. Just don't release it rapidly and shower yourself in 90 degree coolant.
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The GTI ball joints are different to Non-GTI ball joints.
I changed them on my GTI and I fitted bog standard Lupo items from GSF. When I put it back together my wheels were towing in MAJORLY, even with the track rod ends at full adjustment.
So it sounds to me like you have the wrong ball joint, but you have not stated which one you have used, but whatever ball joints you HAVE used, try using the opposite. I.e. GTI & Non-GTI
I'm pretty sure the bottom arm (wishbone) is the same regardless of model.
GTI ball joints are VW only parts and are about £50 for a pair iirc. Plus they take a while to order as they are direct from Wolfsburg.
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What sort of power is this running? I'd guess around 145bhp if it's a standard engine without any cams/headwork etc?
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Are you going with ported or sealed? I like the idea of 2x8" drivers.
If you go ported you'll get a lot more noise out of them, especially if you get an amp that'll do a solid 500-1000wrms @ 4ohms.
What resistance is the voice coil? 8 or 4 ohm?
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Yes, I seam welded the wishbones to stiffen them up and to compensate for the extra loading they take with heavier wheels/brakes/engine and a higher spring rate.
The polybushes didn't seem to give any improvement and just made the ride very harsh on the road. When on the track it felt like it turned in a little better, but this could have been down to running slightly more -ve camber.
I also found that they had started to eat away at the steel wishbone housing which in turn developed a slight bit of movement, despite installing them as per the powerflex instructions and using the supplied grease. Not only is it annoying, but it's pretty dangerous.
With regards the rear beam bushes, they were that tight a fit that when I came to refitting the shocks I could barely move the beam, whereas before it would swing with ease. So this meant that my rear suspension's performance was being compromised, as the polybushes were acting as a damper!! These were quickly removed and the benfit was instantly realised.
Maybe I got a bad batch, as I've heard good stories about powerflex elsewhere.
I'm running a Wavetrac diff, but I don't think this is necessary for a standard powered road car.
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I drilled mine out and fitted bolt-through rose jointed track rod ends.
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I'm running the following handling mods on mine...
Bilstein B12 shocks with H&R springs (mk3 golf springs on the front to account for the extra weight of the 1.8t)
Whiteline rear arb
Polybushed wishbones, ARB mounts/links, rear beam and steering rack
Seam welded wishbones
Rose jointed & flipped track rod ends to lessen the effect of bump steer
Toyo R1R tyres
Front & rear strut braces
My findings are as follows...
Polybushes are a waste of time, money and effort. I'm back to original VW bushes now.
An uprated front ARB would be beneficial to help reduce the oversteer when on the limit of traction
The rose jointed track rod ends can't take road use and I've reverted back to standard ball joints
Strut braces don't work regardless of what people tell you
Tyres are the 1 single best modification you can do to make your car grip
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My offer is £60 posted
...I've taken off the scene tax.
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Lupo GTI parts *Cambridge,TT knee bars,decat,full face bonnet bra,BBS RM 7.5/8inch
in Parts For Sale
Posted
Price on the roof bars please mate.