RichNor
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Posts posted by RichNor
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They should be pulled straight out.
1: Grab the socket and pull straight out,
2 :Pull bulb from socket, and insert new bulb.
3: Socket back in.
4: ????
5: Profit
You could also try twisting the socket back and forth to loosen it up a bit if it's stuck.
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Hi!
My passenger seat is stuck in the "tilt" position, not the backrest, but the base: its unlocked.
Meaning it will not go back and down and stay there, like some mech is not locking.
Is this a common problem?
Is it fixable?
Is it obvious when i look closer at it?
I really havent had a look yet, it just didnt lock back down after tiliting to get groceries out of the back.
Any pointers from you guys?
Cheers
Richard
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I think he meant how do people make up front indicators after smoothing off the original ones?
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Number 3 is the oem underlay, which you remove when you install adjusters. Looks like this
Haven't there been reports of springs snapping when you dont have piece 9 in? due to excess vibration or something?
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To the people who is running coilovers and no rear spring adjusters.
Have you left piece 3 on the picture in? as i chucked mine when installing the adjusters, and wondering if i would need to get a pair.
Do they really make a difference?
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The easy way out would be fitting an aftermarket lower front bumper of your liking. There are some to choose from, and it would be way, way easier than the GTI bumper fitment.
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Boot build finished. Quite happy with it for my first build of this kind.
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Started doing some stereo stuff:
New Pioneer HU:
Boot build progress:
When I was going to tackle the checkstrap problem i found this:
The PO had added some washers for a quickfix:
So i either need to do some welding work or get a new door..
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im guessing this would be the correct link :
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You can also use a heat gun to shrink the plastic sheeting a little after mounting, for a nice, tight look.
There is a thing even better that tape as well, dont know the name, but it is what is used on older VW's to hold membrane in place, black sticky stuff, comes in a roll, after fitting to the plastic, you can take the sheet of and on with out replacing the stuff.
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You can take the - cable off, hook a ampmeter into the circuit, read the draw. All this with the ignition off, and the doors closed.
Easiest way to proceed is having a friend with you, in the car, pulling on fuse at the time, while you check the draw. If you open the door with the ampmeter you can burn the meter, as pump and such go off when you open.
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polyethylene sheet, the heavy duty kind and waterproof doublesided tape? Thats what i used for my scirocco, did the trick.
Also seen people using duct-tape, if you're into that
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Some updated pictures:
Please excuse the quality, my phone does not like taking pictures when it's cloudy. Could also do with a good polish.
As you can see, there is still visible damage from the crash up front, but that is the last of it, I have the panel, but i'm waiting to get it sprayed until i have the other bits ready for paint as well.
Changed the rear badge for a gloss black one,
Not quite happy with how it sits at the back, the adjuster nut is out, so I either have to take the whole threaded part out or cheat a bit and get some 16x7 with suitable tyres to fill the gap.
The steelies are for winter, will do some work on them when summer comes.
Door card test wrap, not sure if the finish is what im really after though.
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Hi!
I have a strange problem, when i brake to a complete stop, my wipers go off.
They keep going until i pull off or stop the car. Have anyone experienced this or anything similar before? or have any bright ideas for a fix?
-Richard
Update: It's not only when braking to a full stop, just when using the brakes in general and they keep going until i accelerate again. I do not need to accelerate alot, just slight increase in rev does the trick.
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Hi!
I have a strange problem, when i brake to a complete stop, my wipers go off.
They keep going until i pull off or stop the car. Have anyone experienced this or anything similar before? or have any bright ideas for a fix?
-Richard
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So.. unfortunately I had an accident early in december:
Scratched lower front bumper, wheel scraped, right front arch scrapped, right headlight smashed, and indicator panel broken.
Anyways, all back together now, except for the new indicator panel, as im thinking about getting it smoothed before mounting and painting, just need to find a smart way to relocate front indicators.
Tho it seems i might need a new slam panel, as the headlight bracket is cracked, so if anyone have a partnumber for this, shout out.
while it stood there my coilovers arrived so I now got some low, horrid shape of old dampers both visual and functionality
Oh, and i started some redoing of the interior:
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thanks a bunch
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Hey!
Does anyone know what the partnumber for the clips for mounting the front piece which you mount the grill and indicators to?
The clips im after are the ones that clips the edges to the front arches.
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Thanks for the picture and all, but i endes up using the reinforced jacking point for the stands :-P
No damage and stable enough.
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Where on the beam? Close to the bolt?
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Installing coilovers
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Thanks. But wouldnt that stop ut from dropping down after i loosten the damper?
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Well..
I do feel quite stupid asking this, but where should i use the trolleyjack and jackstands at the rear?
The manual just tells you to use the jackpoints for the widowmaker at the back. However on my car these points are knackered from the PO.
I have tried searching and figured i can use rear tow eye for jack, but where do the jackstands sit safely?
Could i move the lines and put them here?
Flashing coolant light.
in Volkswagen Lupo
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Hello.
The coolant light on lupo randomly starts flashing after i turn the engine on, sometimes a off/on cycle stops it, some times it doesn't.
The coolant level is fine and the temps are good.
Is it then likely to be the sensor in the expansion reservoir? Any checkups I can do before i go off buying a new tank?
Richard