jon_273
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Posts posted by jon_273
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Unplug the camshaft position sensor and try it for a few days. It will take longer to start but may start more consistently.
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There are three wires under the steering column for the headlights and a two-way switch in the stalk. On a non-GTI lupo the supply comes from the headlight switch to the switch in the indicator stalk which you operate to divert the current to either the dipped or high beam circuit. I disconnected the dipped circuit wire and connected it to the supply to the indicator stalk switch, so that the dipped circuit stays powered regardless of the position of the indicator stalk. This allows you to have dipped and high beam circuits powered at the same time (if you had the standard headlights, both filaments would be powered).
What that means, is that if you have installed GTI xenons into a non-GTI, you can use your high beam(i.e. operate the solenoids which control the flap inside the headlight) when your dipped beam (normal headlights) are switched on. What you still won't be able to do is 'flash' people when the headlight switch it turned off. You need to install a relay for that.
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Stop using the heater
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Yeah 80 deg is right for the GTI stat. Other Lupo's seem to be set at 89C.
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7 minutes ago, lupo1.0se said:
But where does it say they are all season? I don't see the snowflake symbol anywhere.
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1 hour ago, christophertr6 said:
All good sense, but I believe that the matrix does not have a control valve itself, i.e. it always has water flowing through it, but its air flow that is controlled by the flaps. I'll have a grope at the pipes tomorrow. Taking the missus to a meeting and at -3 deg she's not going to be happy if there is no heat. I'd suspect the heater cables etc more if the temp gauge wasn't showing a very slow warm up. The gauge gets its info from the electronics black magic and thats fed from temp sensor - which is also new. Me no understandy!!
Is the thermostat from VW or TPS? Did you change the housing and O ring too? Not sure what else it could be, unless there is something wrong inside the heater box.
Is the warm up time completely ridiculous, considering it's a cold time of year and it's a bigger engine than a 1.0SE which you are comparing it with?
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On 17 January 2016 at 7:16 PM, lupo1.0se said:
Toyo is summer tyre only. No good if you want to use it in the winter.
But the Falken is a summer sure too, is it not? My Toyos are working fine in -4 degrees here in Geneva, but I won't be replacing them with all season tyres, I'll get a st of proper winter tyres. All seasons will ruin the handling in nice weather.
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Scorpion make one which looks like the factory one, probably the best option.
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Why is that Falken any better that the 205 Toyos?
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Hi, just sent it over now.
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I have the .pdf but the max upload here is 1MB and it's 5.9MB...
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The bowden cables go into the heater box with is on the inside of the firewall under the dash, so this will be the place where you willl find the valve for the heater matrix. If you can get on elsawin there is a basic settings procedure for adjusting the bowden cables, it's quite easy. I did it when I replaced the heater dials in our SE a few years ago. Perhaps the cable has come off the back of the dial? Either way I would think you will be able to follow where the cable goes by searching up into the footwells, but you might find that the actual valve is inside the heater box.
Perhaps you could disconnect both pipes for the heater matrix at the bulkhead in the engine bay, and rig up a hose pipe and see if water runs through whilst manipulating the heater valve (via the temperature dial obviously).
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If you buy a stat buy the housing and O ring too as part of the inside of the housing usually breaks. It's a tip I got off this forum and it paid off as it turned out to be true when I replaced my GTI stat!
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I should have told you it's worth £1.5k and then bought it as a spare!
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We also have a 2004 anthracite lupo TDI with air con and FSH, which we have had since 2007. I would have loved one with a sunroof also! They can be hard to price really because there aren't many out there. I would think £3,000.
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There should be:
- Reversible screwdriver
- Centre cap puller
- 10/13mm combination spanner
- Tyre foam
- Compressor
There is no towing hook even though there is space in the polystyrene for one. The tow eyes are permanently fixed to the chassis.
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Or just buy some rivets the right size and a rivet gun.
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What size have you got?
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New camera is working well!
Were these taken in Lausanne?
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The anni is nice! Keeping my GTI for now though I think.
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You need 195/45
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You can get more out with an oil extractor but you have to manipulate the pipe in the sump i.e. twist it a little bit. Just keep sucking until no more comes out. The one I have used the last 5 or 6 times works off an air compressor and has a venturi to create the vacuum, although I have just bought a manually operated one so will see how that performs shortly. In my opinion they are definitely the way forward for the TDi engine, the sump is a good shape for extracting all the oil and it saves having to remove the under tray! And also you can remove quite a bit from the filter housing like I said before.
The GTi however I tend to drop the oil out through the sump plug.
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Are you running spacers on the rear?
starting 1.4 tdi
in Car Care, Maintenance and Mechanical
Posted
Well the self study program explaines it better, but this is how I understand it. Basically the ECU uses the camshaft position sensor to know where in the cycle the engine and therefore when to inject the fuel and start. If this sensor is on it's way out then is sends the wrong timing information to the ECU and you have problems starting (this is what mine did). If you unplug it, the ECU uses the crankshaft position sensor for the timing information instead. The reason it takes longer to start is because the crankshaft rotates half the speed of the camshaft, so it takes a bit longer to work out the timing.