jon_273
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Posts posted by jon_273
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As Martin says, you soon learn to drive around it. It's how they are.
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Cool, thought it might be hard to get hold of 205's now, but looks like you managed OK. Car is looking good!
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I know they probably shouldn't do it, but they do. It's something that has been discussed often before on the forum:
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Are they 195's or 205's?
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They all do it when cold, it's just a quirk of the GTI. Allegedly if you run them on 98 ron rather than 95 ron petrol then the kangarooing isn't as bad. I've always ran mine on Shell's finest and both the GTI's I've had still did it.
If you have a problem when the engine has warmed, then first thing to try would be a decent service and some decent fuel. Also, there is no carb or airflow meter to clean...
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You'll almost certainly need a donor. There will be loads to swap, not just engine/gearbox/ECU but stuff like the hubs, driveshafts, pedal box, slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch, fuel tank/pump/pipes, clocks, etc...
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I have one you can have for the price if postage plus a couple of quid
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Yes, you will need to remove the lower door card.
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Ten year old thread, good going. Nice to know the search fuction works!
Looks like you just need to unplug the cable inside the door. It's a bit fiddly as the connector is mounted behing the metal area above the speaker. You have to feel around with your hand, tilt the connector to pull it out of it's mounting bracket, and bring it to the opening so you can see to disconnect it.
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1 ordered.
Surley you need at least 2?
Was going to use it for my house keys. I only have one house!
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I'm sure you could do an Audi climate control swap...
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Get your grill block on. See your thermostat isn't knackered. I don't know if these cars are super efficient or over cooled maybe both but when it's cold you can't beat a grill block. VW do an oem kit for their cars too. Don't know about lupo though.
Changed the thermostat after the decat thinking something was up with it but it didn't make a difference. Also checked the old one in a pan on the hob and it was working fine.
Max coolant temp recorded in the last 2 days in the Scangauge was 90C though, so all seems well.
So cold.
Get some Audi heated seat switches, they go all the way up to 6!
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Yes, where and how you drive it makes all the difference. Was struggling to reach full temp today as could not really get over 40mph due to traffic. Temperature due to reach freezing tonight. Think I'll just use a petrol car tomorrow!
If you have VCDS you can get a digital read out of the temperature. I did this when I had problems a few years ago and found it did not correlate with the gauge. It seems that the signal from the CTS goes to the computer which then (among other things) sends a command to the temperature gauge. I think the temperature gauge on our Lupo read 90 when the actual temperature was anywhere between 70 and 90 but can not remember the actual values. I have been told that the system was designed that way so that owners saw a nice steady temperature reading on the instruments but not sure if this is true.
Yes, that's how the Scangauge gets it's readout.
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Not ideal being winter eh?
No, they don't make a good winter car!
Actually your mucho wrong. My car is grill blocked and my thermostat is brand new from TPS.
You do get ALOT of heat going into the cabin this way without cooling down the car. Plus it's not blasting in your face and drying your eyes etc etc.
Plus what temperature was it there? It's cold enough that I have put my winter tyres on here. Out of curiosity how are you measuring temperature?
Heat only gets into the cabin if you're driving fast enough for air to blow through the pollen filter and into the car. If you were sitting in traffic you would just be making the inside of the heater box very hot and cooling the engine down. As we know, at idle or low speeds the engine doesn't produce enough heat to run the heater on max heat and maintain engine temp.
I put my winter tyres on last week as the other car temp sensors have been saying around 7 degrees. Measuring temp using Scangauge II. It's been in there for 5 winters now so I've spent a long time driving and adjusting things to work out what's happening etc. Things I have found:
A bit of boost make the coolant temp come up a lot faster.
The heater dial is not linear in it's adjustment. Most of the control is in the first section from cold to about 40% on the dial. From 40% to full heat there's not a lot of difference. (this is in terms of how much the cable moves from the heater dial to open the valve into the heater matrix)
You can put the recirc on if it's very cold outside to help heat the cabin up quicker without turning the heater dial up too much. Only for short periods though, until it starts to steam up.
A decat makes it take longer to warm up. Presumably, less backpressure has meant less load on the engine, therefore less fuel burnt and therefore less heat.
And yes I was wrong, I have the heater set opposite the red dot! Opposite the blue dot is too high for the reason I have just explained above.
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Still think this grill block is a load of nonsense. Been driving about in the TDi today and it got up to 89C after a while and stayed there as it always does. Heater set with the pointer opposite the
bluered dot and the fan on 1.No need for a grill block if your thermostat is working fine and you don't have the heater on full heat.
I've usually got the heater on max but fan on 0. I'm just cold as a person I guess.
So annoying when people do this! Won't get much heat going into the car without the fan on. And just pointlessly cooling the engine down which is not ideal on a TDI when there's not much heat to go around.
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One for me please.
ORDERED
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Has it got climatronic? Could have a broken temperature sensor or heater flap motor.
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The one I like is the one with a chain that is a well known takeaway wagon. They're takeaway wagons for a reason. They never stop running, well, until the feds nick you for having no tax
Yeah, that's the 'bubble shape' K11. The 1.3 Super S is where it's at.
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The K10 ones had a cambelt. My mum ran a red one for 11 years before getting a Fresco Lupo SE, was 100% reliable except when the original battery gave up (it was 15 years old by that point so it lasted well!)
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The standard paper one looks like this:
As you can see it's pleated, and has a lot more pleats. And therefore a much bigger surface area.
I have seen a photo before where someone stretched a paper one out and compared it with a K&N type one; the paper one was about 5 times bigger.
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The paper one has a much bigger surface area though.
If you pull the plastic end caps off the paper filter and stretch it out, you would see what I mean. The surface area is massive.
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25mm rear and 5mm front I think the advert said. They do look like they stick out loads, so not surprised you had scrubbing. Looks good with the wheels spaced out though.
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You can fit them and elongate the top hole like Ray says to allow the camber to be set correctly.
The reason they are different if because the GTI ones have a deeper bracket to accommodate the wider track of the GTI. If you fit non-GTI coilovers and elongate the hole, the strut will be further angled away from vertical.
This is a non-GTI Wietec coilover strut, compared with a standard GTI damper:
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H&R vs Eibach Springs.
in Car Care, Maintenance and Mechanical
Posted
I'm not sure about the H&R springs in the link, but the ones that come with the H&R comfort kit (springs & dampers) sit lower on the back than the Eibach pro kit.