kabman
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Posts posted by kabman
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I regularly carry a 15 ft canoe using Thule clamp on roof bars. A paddle board isn't going to be a problem.
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To do what ?????
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1
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If you've got all the original bits, put them back on. 1.6 injectors aren't an 'upgrade' for a 1.4. You're not going to make an engine run any better by putting the wrong parts on it.
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That doen't alter the fact that the AHW makes more torque at low engine speeds - which is what I want.
I expect it's mainly due to the cams but would like to know for sure if there were any differences in valve sizes or piston crown/compression ratio.
Also does anyone know if the AUB suffers from blowby/oil consumption like the AHW does. It's from a 2002 car, BTW.
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My AHW engine's done 130,000 miles. While it runs OK it uses plenty of oil. I can get a low mileage AUB (100HP version) but I like the low speed torque of the 75HP AHW. I'd prefer a BBY but this engine's cheap.
I know the cams and inlet manifold are different but I'm guessing the bottom end is identical. Anything else I would need to swap over to convert an AUB to 75HP spec? Are the compression ratios different?
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Don't worry, I would only ever change springs in pairs. I prefer to use genuine VW parts, even if they're used, rather than buy cheap stuff from Euro or GSF though. Anyway, a bit of phoning around my old air-cooled contacts has dug up a pair of NOS front springs for the bargaintastic price of 20 quid. I'll pick them up on Monday. They are labeled as Polo 6N springs but have no part numbers. They do have the same paint-blob code as the old ones so I'm assuming they're the same spring rate unless anyone knows different.
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I've just found a front spring has snapped. My local breakers don't have any Lupos in. There are a few Polos and an Arosa around. The Arosa is probably the best bet so I'm off to check it out tomorrow.
My question is - The current springs have three green and two white dots to identify them. Anyone know what this code designates and what other models would have suitable springs? My Lupo is a '99 1.4E. Do 1 litre cars have the same rate springs? What about 6N Polos? I know dirty diesels and sport/Gti sprints are going to be stiffer.
Anyone in the West Midlands area got any standard springs they want to sell?
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The diagam I have shows:
Sensor pin1 - white- ECU pin 87
Sensor pin2 - black/white - ECU pin 82
Sensor pin3 - brown/black - Ground
I don't know for sure but I suspect pin 1 is the 5V supply.
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Just because your side lights work doesn't mean your brake lights are ok, even if they are the same bulb they'll be using different filaments.
With dual filament bulbs it is usually the brake light that fails first so this is probably your problem.
If you haven't got a multimeter, or don't know how to use one, the simplest way to diagnose your faulty brake light is to swap the bulbs from left to right since you know the other bulb is OK.
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Thoooom - sent you a message.
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I'm in need of a set of stock steel wheels with good tyres to use while my wheels are being refurb'ed.
Anyone replacing theirs or breaking a car? I don't care what they look like as long as the tyres are good and they're cheap.
Ideally around the Solihull/Coventry/Redditch area.
Andy
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You need to measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running. It should be something like 13.5V to 14.5V if the alternator is charging. If it is lower than 12V it's still not necessarily the alternator that's faulty. You'll need to test the battery under load to confirm it is OK. If the battery checks out then look at the alternator circuit.
A faulty alternator won't stop you starting the engine IF the battery is OK. Have you charged the battery off the car?
It sounds to me like the alternator is not charging and you have drained the battery trying to start the engine. Get it charged or, even better, swap it for a known good battery (speak nicely to GF). Don't let the battery get flat to the point it won't crank the engine - its possible to buckle the plates and render it useless.
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Save your money! It is most likely to be starter pinion bush that is worn.
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http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=72738
I looked into this when I got my Lupo (see link). Before 2000 it wasn't a legal requirement to have an engine check light so, although there is physically a LED on the circuit board, the instrument pack's software doesn't enable it. I don't know the exact cut-off date for Lupos - it depends on the homologation 'model year' of the car rather than the date the car was manufactured.
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who would of thought it...
The diagnostic code told them it was a coil fault and several people on here also said it was a coil fault. Everything pointed to a fault with the coil.
I'm glad you got it fixed in the end but I'd be looking for another garage next time you need something fixing
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The garage have now changed ...
Plugs
leads
coil pack
coil pack wiring
cam sensor
rear silencer
cat converter
lamda sensor
I'm relieved you're not footing the bill while this garage random throws new parts at the car in the hope of stricking lucky. Unfortunalety that's how a lot of places operate - and main dealers are often the worst of the lot because they know they can just claim the costs back from the manufacturer. Any decent mechanic would have a picoscope on that coil and diagnose it in a few minutes.
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Regarding your starter motor noise, many VW's suffer from this and it's caused by the bush in the gearbox that supports the starter pinion wearing. The motor itself is fine, it just makes an annoying screetch as the pinion disengages. I can't say for sure if TDi starters are the same as petrol ones though. Diesels sometimes use a beefier, self-supporting starter motor.
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That combination of codes points to the coil pack. If you are 100% confident it's not the coil itself then look for a fault in the wiring to the coil.
It is definitely not a problem related to the lambda sensor - save your money.
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The usual convention is to number cylinders starting at the front of the engine where the pulley is, the gearbox being at the back of the engine.
So, as you're peering under a Lupo's bonnet, the front of the engine is on the left, the gearbox is on the right and cylinder 3 is the third from the left.
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When you say "clocks" you're talking about the speedo and tacho , right?
There are no bulbs. They are surface mount LEDs. Technically, you can change them if you know what you're doing. But, if you need to ask, I wouldn't recommend trying
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really dont think people would not answer a question because of a few words missed out...
Are you sure about that? I wouldn't. I'm sure I'm not the only one either.
At work, any e-mail I receive without punctuation, without capital letters or full of TXTSPK goes straight to the bottom of my to-do list, often never to resurface. If they can't be bothered to ask properly I can't be bothered to help them.
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The standard headlights are fine if they are set up and maintained correctly.
The headlight is designed to work with a specific bulb so the filament is in the correct position relative to the reflector and lens. Cheapo aftermarket HID's are a waste of money. Birthday candles are more effective.
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Thanks, Where would i find a wiring diagram to see if it is the wires?
ELSAWIN is your best bet. I don't have a diagram but O2 sensors are fairly generic. Has it got 4 or 5 wires?
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I recently got my car back from VW, after the whole car decided to die on me. A load of new sensors, new cambelt and £1200 poorer and the car was fixed. Now I'm having a intermidant fault with one of the injectors, the error code is saying that it has a open circuit. In this case do I take it back to VW and get raped again, or try and fix it myself by maybe replacing the connector. When the check engine light comes on, I just take the engine cover off and poke the injector to make the light turn off...
Any help is appreciated =)
The injectors share a common power and are grounded individually by the ECU to actuate them. If only one injector is giving you grief it must be the ground. Since you mention poking the connector, that's most probably where you'll find the problem. Look for corrosion on the terminal, damage to the wire or the terminal not fitting the pin snugly.
Wanted: 1.4 16V cylinder head
in Wanted
Posted
I'm in urgent need of a good 1.4 16V cylinder head. I'll take a complete engine if necessary.
I think any of these engine codes will be suitable AHW, AXP, AKQ, APE, AUA, BCA, BBY, BKY, BUD, CGGA, AFH, AFK, AUB, BBZ (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong)
Andy