grazo22
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Posts posted by grazo22
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i'm with admiral, cost me an extra 50 squids or something. So you know they do not insure cars lowered more than 50mm
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Cheers grazo... well struts fine cos ive got coilies now so thats not it but ill have a look trying to tighten the subframe and see if i can see anything abnormal with wishbones... the tre and the rack end both seem.fine aswell
Problem with suspension components bending is that you normally can't see by eye. A difference of 2 mm adjustment will throw it out completely and ruin your tyres. I would take to to your local accident repair and get them to do a geo. That'll tell you exactly what's screwed if you can't do the stringing method.
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Never dont egr valve so couldn't comment.
Plug would be a 15 min job and I would expect iridium plugs for about £25, at a push and using copper slip on all threads.
Crank sensor is horrible and took me about 1.5 hours at the weekend as the intake manifold, starter motor has to come off. Diagnostics are a wallet rape if it's more than a fiver but £30 could be worse. Atleast it's not over £100 like BM. Sensor is about £45
I would try a deal and get it all done for £120.
You can get a cambelt done for £100 labour!!!!
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hi i was wondering if anyone can help me.. i had a little accedent afew weeks back where i hit a puddle and it pulled me towards the kurb and my car mounted the kurb.. the care drove exactly the same afterwards but id been meaning to do it for a while before so thaught i would get the traking doen.. when i got it done they said it wouldnt be 100% accurate because my car was lowered (about 40-60mm on springs) but i already knew this due to having previous lowered cars... when they traked it the ns track rod end wound all the way on but still didnt line up! so they blamed it on the lowered car... i was planning on coilies anyway so i bought my coilies and i changed the rideheight all tthe way up and when tracked i still had the same problem... i then lowered the car down because it didnt pull that much... and put my new wheels on where it drove alright pulled a little but jus what you would expect from a lowered car... 1000 miles later my brand new tyres are now bald on the inside and outside edges and about 3mm over the rest of the tyre... i had a look to see if i cold see anything bent or anything and icouldnt... i found a bolt that attaches subframe to chasis that wobbles around but you cant loosen it or tighten it or even pull it out! but there seems to be no play in this so i dont know if this is causing it! i was just wondering if anyone had any ideas as i dont just want to go randomly guessing and throwing lodsa money into the car..cheers...
this is the bolt in question aswell
As above, you're not following so you might not have seen my reply otherwise
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Bald on both edges would generally mean under inflation. Toe in give wear on outside edge, toe out will give it on inside edge.
There is no reason why with lowering springs or coilovers you can't get 100% tracking. When you hit a pot hole the only reason your tracking goes out is if something is bent. I would check you stut and wish bone as these are designed to bend first, mainly wishbone.
As long as the camber geo is set up correctly to spec you can adjust the toe yourself. If you're having to adjust the track end all the way it sounds like you will be causing toe in, something (wishbone, tre, strut, knuckle) is bent or the tracking equipment is not correctly calibrated.
The subframe bolt should be tight. I would take pressure off the subframe with a jack to see if you can tighten it. Other things will always bend before the SF though.
You can check your tracking yourself using a method similar to this which shows you very visually which way the wheels are pointing and which adjustments you need to make. http://www.elantragt....com/id554.html This also enables you to make adjustment for bent components. Also make sure you have the correct front camber using a camber guage if you have access to one.
Gray
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There is no difference in the calipers. It's only the disc thinkness and pad thickness.
Sport will already have 256mm fronts.
First one is no as gti has a hydraulic clutch which works from the master C
Second is yes
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Mine has always done it, it's the fan. I used to call my lupe owl, it's so happy in the winter.
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calipers off a full rebuild making sure all surfaces are clean and have loads of rubber grease on. Sometimes it's the only way
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Only 70 squids
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Theres no way a cat should go in 2months!! either the garage mis diagnosed the problem and just wacked a new CAT any way. or theres is another problem with the car, maybe just the sensor was broke or it could be because the car was buring oil or the car had been overfilled with oil...that would damage a CAT
I was shocked also but it did. We always do self diagnostics but have access to an emissions machine through a friend. Oil wasn't overfilled at all and it wasn't burning any. Nearly everyone in the trade I've spoken to seems to think these cheap cats are only used to pass 1 year and don't last that period. We checked all the vitals on vag com all of which were perfect, cleaned up everything to run perfectly as it did. Lambda was cycling as it should. Only the cat was the problemo
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Roight, the lupo is going in the next month so I'm prepping for sale. Everything is done bar the emissions.
For 2 years running I have had to replace the cat. The first year I went from genuine to ECP one as I mis-diagnosed the problem but unfortunately threw the genuine one out.
Passed MOT in the end with emissions fine. This year in may, sure enough it failed again on emissions. Replaced the cat and it went through.
Does anyone have any experience of these cheap ecp cats getting a car to pass then passing the buck a month or 2 down the line.
My friend replaced his cat as it had broken, 2 months later for MOT it needed replacing again as it had gone in that short space of time. It was also a lupo.
My cat isn't type approved as it's pre that special date.
Thoughts please as I'd like to sell the lupo to a friend and make sure it's perfect
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there was a polo gti one on ebay where he has spelt ballast wrong. only £20 or so. It may well do the trick
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I thought the 3l did have it in the boot in some instances. This is a very early one so things may have changed.
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sounds like the cables aren't fully releasing. Maybe wip the calipers apart, loads of red grease and a couple of new cables.
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sounds like the self adjusters on the hand brake aren't working.
If you pump the brake and then put your hand brake on it should work with less clicks.
Mine seems to vary depending on how hard I've been braking before I put the HB on. Don't adjust it under the lever as thats just bad.
The adjusters are on the rear caliper where the cable comes out. Its the same kind of adjustment as the throttle cable if my memory serves me right.
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Good evening all, Just noticed this tonight, I was wondering why it wasnt scrubbing the tyres on my side of the car, but the passenger side always caught
Anyway, Took the wheel off yesterday, thought nothing off it, Anyway taking my helpers out tonight and i noticed this :
Now i assume i need to adjust the caster? How can i do this?
Many thanks
Kieran
Get one of these, I bought one when I fitted coilovers. Possibly the most useful tool I have ever bought. Makes sure you can set the camber up perfectly.
http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=664&item=4034
When you change the camber you will have to adjust the tracking as well. This is due to the hub having preset castor and the track end being attached at the back of the hub.
I'm going to try and do a write up on it but you can do the tracking yourself like below. It's actually better than laser 4 wheel alignment as it takes into account any damage to your rear beam.
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Right here are my pics from the weekend.
To change the brakes in about 20 mins a side.
- Jack up the car and take the wheel off
- Undo the caliper sliders bolts that you can see me pointing at
- Take the caliper out and with rubber grease clean and lube up the slider pins
- Remove pads
- 17mm remove the carrier
- Remove disc retaining screw and take off the disc
- Push back the piston using a clamp or something (no screw on front pistons) and clean up the movement surfaces for the pads and carriers
- Clean up hub
- Put on new disc after removing protective oil and put in retaining screw, doesn't need to be tight as it's only used when the wheel is off.
- Bolt carrier on
- Insert pads, put some copper slip on the back of the pad
- Bolt the caliper back on, don't do the slider bolts too tight as the caliper won't move back and forth freely. Do it tight enough though, use your discretion man!!
- Wheel back on then do the other side.
- Jack up the car and take the wheel off
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http://www.kamracing.co.uk/vw-lupo-1-4-16v-100hp-1-4-tdi-256x20mm-brembo-front-brake-discs.html
Give the brake changing a go yourself as it's mega easy. Just wip the carrier off the hub, take the disc off, take the pads out, push the piston back (with a lever of some sort) and then put new pads in, new disc on then bolt all back on.
People are scared of doing the brakes but if in doubt just use loads of loctite and do it all as tight as possible.
Bleeding the brakes is very easy with a gunsons eazi bleed, use this all the time, quick and easy, 200ml from each nipple and 100 from the clutch and the fluid will be changed
I'm changing my discs and pads at the weekend if you want me to take some pics
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Get some carbone lorraine pads from kamracing and some brembo high carbon discs. Cheaper than doing a g60 conversion and give over 2 g of braking power. Enough to put abs on at crazy speeds. Also last and incredibly long time. Wouldn't have to change wheels as you're running standard disc size. No fade until over 1000 deg c, work from cold and the more you brake the more they grip. Seriously I don't understand why more people don't do this for good braking.
My friend has a set on his clio and my stomach nearly fell out of my mouth when we tried them out
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turns out black spots were where I'd washed the car with a pessure wassure and some water had got in the exhaust and been blown out.
This weekends 300 I got none.
Lupo being put up for sale for replacement with a TDI. A very sad day
MAP sensor is being replaced before sale.
This means 3l front end is going along with a full set of tt seats and coilovers
PM me if anyone is interested
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when the car isn't running the tb snaps shut, it's electronically shutting slowly which is a bumdar
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I think its a new map sensor for certain as pressure and temp are same sensor.
I have checked for airleaks by pressurising all the tubes but will have to again.
I cleaned the face where the manifold bolts to the head, that made no difference!!!! Im away this weekend but will check for leaks in the week (poem)
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In an attempted to inspire new thinking.
I have taken the intake manifold off making sure all the connections were top notch which they were.
Still have the problem.
I'm getting these fault codes if anyone can help me detangle some.
Also been thinking it could be the crank position sensor as that is linked to having odd revving characteristics.
4 Faults Found:
00519 - Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71)
28-10 - Short to B+ - Intermittent
00523 - Intake Air Temp Sensor (G42)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
00609 - Ignition Output 1
26-00 - Output Open
00610 - Ignition Output 2
26-00 - Output Open
insurance with coilovers or lower springs?
in Insurance
Posted
Try putting below 5 on a quote on line from them, They won't supply one
I have no idea how much mine was lowered by and I think they would have a hard time proving it was lowered more than 5cm.