robertfleckney
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Posts posted by robertfleckney
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Ahh sorry dude, meant when the ignition is switched on before starting!
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Does it actually turn over when you attempt to start it? Or it it completely dead?
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Have you checked the connections on the steering wheel? It is worth checking, and although I feel it is unlikely, they might just be dirty/bent/not making contact etc.
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My battery light comes on with ignition on and this is normal as far as I am aware.
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Ever since we have had the car (Arosa) the gears have been notchy, clutch has been heavy and creaky and reverse has been known to crunch and won't engage properly causing grinding gears. I have always assumed it was the pedal box and planned to sort it.
Today I got into the footwell to check to see if I could see the broken part of the pedal box when pushing the clutch pedal, but couldn't see any movement at all. It was kind of obscured, but I had read that it should be seen to move when the clutch is pressed.
I am now unsure if my pedal box is even the issue, what else could cause my problems? Baring in mind we have had the car 18 months so can rule out clutch issues.
Or... has anyone else had pedal box issues but not been able to see the problem when looking into the footwell? I was planning on getting the issue sorted fairly soon, but don't want to waste money!
Any help appreciated, thanks in advance.
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Sounds ok then, probably around £200-250 from an independent garage.
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I have trawled through the pinned pedal box thread because we have a 1998 Arosa with the symptoms:
-Notchy, stiff and difficult to engage gears.
-Crunching in reverse
-Heavy, creaking clutch pedal
Generally, it feels like the linkage is in setting concrete! My question is, assuming my issues are definitely pedal box related, can anyone give me a an idea of what they paid to have it rectified by an independent garage.
So far I know the pedal box and bolts will cost around £35, but roughly how many hours labour would the average garage charge?
I have emailed a couple of VAG specialists in my area for quotes also, just wondering what you guys paid and how long it took so they don't have my pants down.
Thanks.
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That is what I had hoped! Wasn't sure if the tensioner definitely was self tensioning, as i'm used to my own passat and not the missus' Arosa.
Thanks for your help!
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Looking to change the alternator belt on a 1.0 Arosa.
Looks straight forward if a little awkward to access. Any tips? Also, do you lift the tensioner off the belt using a spanner on the nut of the tensioner then slide the belt off?
Thanks in advance.
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Looking to change the alternator belt on a 1.0 Arosa.
Looks straight forward if a little awkward to access. Any tips? Also, do you lift the tensioner off the belt using a spanner on the nut of the tensioner then slide the belt off?
Thanks in advance.
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Hope you get it sorted soon bud
specially with fuel prices nowThe replacement 'stat and CTS are sitting waiting to go on, but it is getting time to fit them!
Reason being, in my experience, anything coolant related seems to end in extra hassle, especially relating to the poxy plastic 'stat housing.
On that note, does the thermostat pull out or twist out?
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Thought as much. I remembered reading on many forums about many VAG cars, that CTS were prone to failing and causing poor economy, so I guessed that this pretty much caused the same issue.
Cheers.
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The missus's 1.0 Lupo is pretty poor on fuel, and I had an idea as to why and wondered if anyone could say whether it could be the reason.
The car always runs at about 70 deg, because it desperately needs a new thermostat (and a new CTS is going on too just for good measure). As a result, would I be right in thinking that because the coolant never gets above 70 deg, the car is always over fuelling slightly, hence the poor economy?!
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It would definitely always be fitted with an 063 battery. Don't buy any car parts from halfords, they are over priced. Go to ECP or GSF and pick up a cheap one for around £30.
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the wedge is designed to push the shoes further in to the drums the futher downwards it gets which means you'll be unable to remove the drums. So by levering the wedge upwards this will release them. My fault i forgot to put lever the WEDGE upwards so last post made no sense. any doubt theres a thread on the forum about brakeshoes check there 1st
Ahh great, i'm following now cheers
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hi, you'll need to lever upwards to move the shoes away from the drums. Also when it comes to re-fittng the drums make sure you grind the lip off the edge of the braking surface this will stop any water hanging inside the brakes and causing them to stick.
hope this helps.
ok, so lever upwards which pushes the wedge downwards?
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Need to get the drums off to check the shoes on the missus's Arosa but i'm wanting to double check the procedure with the adjustor wedge.
I've done loads of research to see pics and posts from places like club lupo and club polo, so am I right in thinking once i've lined the bolt hole up, I need to lever the wedge downwards to pull the shoe away from the drum lining. This is of course assuming that the drum doesn't come straight off anyway (which i'm not expecting, as the reason it all needs inspecting is because it is making a grinding noise which might be worn shoes!)
Thanks.
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They are notorious for popping the connection behind the passenger rear door card underneath the foam. The water won't fill the boot because it drain down into a different area.
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Mine wasn't even getting up to this recently, changed the thermostat and it now sits around 90 unless I have the heating on tropical hurricane mode. It's only a 30 minute job to change it and about the same in price with the coolant aswell
Yeah, thought it was worth doing as it is a doddle and the thermostat and coolant sensor were £13 odd delivered.
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Cheers folks, i'd thought it was a little low but wasn't 100% what with me driving it in the cold weather.
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My g/f has an Arosa 1.0 and whilst driving it over xmas I have noticed that the temperature gauge sits at around 70 deg max.
I am guessing this isn't normal, as my passat sits at 90 deg all day and never moves even in traffic..
My experience tells me I have a thermostat stuck open and I remember the thermostat on these is made of cheap black plastic.
/??
My other question is whether the thermostat housing is easily accessible on these engines?
Thanks.
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We have an Arosa 1.0 and we always have lots of mayo on the oil filler cap, yet the oil level is always spot on, the coolant level never moves and it runs up to temperature fine. My partner does 5 miles to school and back everyday so the car never warms up properly and I do remember my old mk2 golfs always having some mayo in the breather pipes, which i'm guessing is a result of some condensation. I put a post on here some time ago with this problem and everyone seemed to think that headgasket issue just weren't common on Arosas/Lupos and many people had mayo problems on their filler caps.
We are giving the old girl a nice 140 mile run tomorrow which we hope will do it some good.
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i bought a cqble from ebay for 12 quid an it works fine and charges my iphone 3g but you have to control via the phone rather than the headunit whicch i wanted to do anuway heres a ebay link
Nice one, cheers mate thats the kind of thing i'm looking for.
Any idea if this connector will work with any Pioneer stereo?
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We have 98 Arosa 1.0 and no EPC light, but the throttle body is cable operated as I saw it yesterday during a service.
What's it worth?
in Seat Arosa
Posted
We're going to get rid of the other half's Arosa as we no longer need it, so what do think it is worth?
'98 Arosa 1.0, 61k, light blue. Loads of service history, 2 previous owners.
Good points: Mechanically she is spot on, runs fantastic, loads of life left, very economical.
Bad points: cosmetically the car has some issues which were there when we bought it, which really lets it down from a sale point of view:
Lacquer peel on the roof,
Rust around the rear arches
Couple of small dents
Dodgy driver's door handle
Few marks here and there.
Overall she looks tidy and polishes up nicely despite the issues.
Thanks in advance for your help.