Hazy
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Posts posted by Hazy
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There's still the live auction to come after 12pm, so chances it'll go for more.
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My decision to break it, should I of gotten it cheap, was purely down the lines of transferring the 3L bits to my car (same colour, natch), and keeping the engine for a future engine swap into it. Either that or have two green Lupos sitting on the drive.
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Well, it's not past saving obviously, but there's the obvious O/S rear arch scrape towards the sill, and there's another big dint on the N/S rear arch -think the rear bumper took the brunt of that though. And you can't really see it clearly in the photo, but there's a scrape on the N/S front wing coming off the front bumper. Those and a few dints you can't really see in the photos. Bonnet is fine, as is the rear boot lid, apart from needing a new badge.
Like I say, good TLC would sort it. Think it's only Cat C because of the hassle getting replacement parts. Engine and running gear looked sound.
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Bodycraft in Jubilee estate, Ashington, are good, though not cheap. Further afield is GBR Car Body Repair at Throckley Industrial Estate (on way to Hexham), a bit out the way for you, but he's got a guy that does that dint removal thing, and his prices are reasonable.
Is there none at Coopies Lane? Sure there was a couple at least.
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Went to have a look at this last weekend when I was down in the area, and apart from needing to repair the rear bumper, and a new front one (which I have), it would need quite a bit of TLC to getting back to it's best. Quite a few dints, but nothing a good respray wouldn't fix.
Was actually looking at it to break quite honestly (and repair/stick the best bits onto mine).
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Was watching this and now the starting price has gone up somewhat.
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I'd say a 1.0 would struggle to pull a decent sized car trailer without a car on it.
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I'd give it a full service (oil/air/fuel filters) first, and see how it goes then, also do you know how long it's been since the timing belt has been changed? If not, that too.
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It's a hub, it's the same as the one found on the 1L and the 1.4 -basically anything that's not a sport, as the faster models have carriers. Anything that houses the 239mm diameter discs.
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You could also ask Dale (Lupoboz), it's whom I got mine from (it'll be cheaper than from your local dealer). I think it was probably around the twenty quid mark actually, now that I remember.
but 6N2 612 041G is the part no. you're after at any rate, if you want to look at 2nd hand ebay/salvage options.
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Don't know about the recall issue, but I'd replace it sooner than later, as mine spilt near the intake, and the brakes suffered quite badly as a result. The pipe is no more than a tenner, and easy to replace.
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Indeed it is. That and you can sitting easily at 80mph on the motorway, and not have fear of it blowing up doing so.
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I think he probably means for overtaking like an idiot without due care. If it's about anything else with normally driving, then I don't know what he's talking about.
Also Other-power, I think your lack of decent MPG is down to your car being 'chipped', which is nowhere near the same thing as a remap. The only things like that do is overfuel. At the moment all I have going on is a K&N air filter, and the rest is standard, and it's still nippy enough. Not the same as the GTTDI, but I don't drive it as such.
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Yep, resistor just needs swapped out. One from a Golf Mk4 will fit (they're more or less the same part across the range of that era).
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Can be done and has been done: http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=90792entry1052072
I would say since you have the gear knocking about, go for it. The inlet manifold and the downpipe need some fabrication/alteration to fit and you'll need to hook up the Turbo with an oil line. Supposedly it can be done without an intercooler (something the SDI doesn't have), but I don't see why the 110 part couldn't be hooked up. You'll need sort out a piggyback ECU to tell the turbo to spool etc however, something that's beyond my knowledge.
The above one was based on the 90 non-PD Turbo set-up, so you may have to see how far you can push the 110, once it's to thee ECU stage, before it's too much for the SDI's clutch/gearbox.
Or you could fix the 110 and stick that in instead, more work however.
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Polo GTI BBS? Yeah, had a set, only look decent if on lowered car with 10mm+ spacers. Otherwise tuck city.
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As far as I know, without going too far, a proper remap -none of this chiptune malarky -in conjunction with a decent aftermarket airfilter, and the trumpets removed will get you 70bhp, and the same torque as the 3L's 1.2TDI, without sacrificing the mpg, even probably improving it a smidgen. Maybe a straight through stainless exhaust will add a bit more.
As said before, the SDI isn't a racer, just a supremely frugal car with loads of low rev grunt for nipping about in, but what i've mentioned above will give a little more poke for overtaking and tackling hills, which without having decent momentum to tackle is the car's nemesis.
If you want to go down the route of sticking a Turbo on, this thread is probably a good place to start -although it's still not straight forward. the Golf MkIV 1.9tdi ALH/AGR (possibly more) inlet manifold/turbo/injectors/downpipe will fit the SDI, but the manifold needs quite a bit of modification so it doesn't foul with the bonnet. Then there's supplying the turbo with oil (easy enough) and installing a custom/piggyback ECU to actually make the turbo work. It still won't be near as quick as a 130PD mind, and for all the hassle, it would be more straight forward and reliable to stick a PD engine in wholesale.
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Hazy, do you think the difference in the cost between 10W40 and 5W30 will be saved in improved economy?
What do you think to engine flush when changing the oil?
Jon
I only buy (decent) Oil when it's on the cheap, and when I bought the Castrol 5w30 it was cheaper than the 10w40 by some margin. The SDI engine is never going to be smokin hot, and the idea of it warming up faster -especially on short journeys -with the 5w30 should up MPG.
Never really bothered with Engine Flush to be honest, every car I've owned has been regularly serviced (or had a similar history of being), and unless that's the case with a car you don't know the history of, I don't see the reason to use it. I'd probably only use it in that latter case, especially if somebody hasn't serviced regularly and cooked the engine without topping up the oil.
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- Removed trumpets from inlet box - rueduces power but increase booming dron of the engine!
I thought you got a gain in bhp from removing the inlet trumpets, as it allows the engine to rev more freely.
I have a K&N Air filter fitted in place of the normal, and that seems to give it a little more poke too. I'm running 10w40 oil at the moment, though that will be changed to 5w30 come the new year when I do all the filters (regular service does help mpg). I seem to average 380miles from a tank -about 62mpg, though If it's a pure motorway run that'll go easily over the 400miles mark -sitting at around 60mph returns 70mpg. At worse, stop-start around town, it'll be around the 340miles/55mpg. It would be good if the SDI had the little mpg read out the MK4 GTTDI has, which at the moment (for a 14 year old car) still averages 50-55mpg on normal runs.
In terms of aerodynamics, the mudguards make no -if they do it's insignificant -difference. I have a 3L front that for lack of time has been waiting to go on, and that'll be interesting to see what the reduced drag does to the MPG. Supposedly taping up the standard grill gets rid of a bit of drag too.
This thread has good pointers for getting decent MPG
And this thread also has some goood info kicking about, including a proper SDI remap. -trumpets removed, no aftermarket air filter, but bhp/torque same as a 3L.
I'm also running G60 steels with 15/45/195 rubber at 34psi. Was actually looking at the 3L's Mag 14" 4.5wide for winters, they would up the MPG too. I have a set of 13"s with winter tyres that do up the mpg when on.
- Removed trumpets from inlet box - rueduces power but increase booming dron of the engine!
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^ All very good pointers that!
The SDI's biggest killer for good mpg is the aforementioned long hills and stop-starts around town, at 60mph+ it's certainly more efficient than at sub 30mph speeds. It's at it's best down the motorway -keeping in mind the good point about letting it find it's own speed, you'll find it'll only have merest sips of fuel at around 60-65mph. Probably faster than that if it's congested and you can (within reason) slipstream vehicles in front. I usually average around 57-65mpg on normal town/country routes, which can easily go up past 70mpg+ on long motorway runs.
I'll reiterate the bit about letting the car find it's own speed. I get annoyed by Sunday-esque drivers tootling around country lanes where I live at about 25mph, which kills the car's momentum, I can more or less see the fuel gauge going down! But yeah, tyre pressure, regular services (I can more or less tell when the Fuel/Oil filters need changing) do help. Also, having the throttle to the floor doesn't help, if you can keep it around ½ you'll use less fuel too.
I should be sticking the 3L front (and rear bumper if I can find one) on mine beforelong, so it'll be interesting to see what difference that makes.
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My mistake then, t'was a similar blue one when I passed through Consett way. Looked like it had tarantulas or similar on.
UK Registered Lupo 3l
in Drivers Lounge
Posted · Edited by Hazy
Went for £1150 at the finish, so over £1200+ with auction fees probably.