MarkandCath

In case anyone else gets the problem it is dead simple and I spotted it from looking at Jake's guide. http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=89324&pid=1036868&st=0entry1036868 The muppet that last changed the timing belt had missed of the washer between the bolt and the tensioner. When you replace the washer it tightens the bolt fine and doesn't mess with the setting. Simple things always create the most problems.

I am bench servicing a replacement engine before I drop in in, it is the 1.0 AUC. I am using a Dayco kit, KTB341, and the slot in the tensioner is around the bolt as it should be. When I set the tensioner using the allen key the pointer lines up to the middle of the slot as it should and I nip it up with a spanner. When I go to torque it to 20NM the action of tightened to bolt moves the needle to way over tight. I have tried holding it with the allen key but to no avail. The only way I found to do it was slacken of the bolt enough so it started to slip back and then nip it up again. I have never had this much trouble with a tensioner before and it worries me. I can now turn the engine with a spanner and the pointer is in the correct place (middle of the slot) and as per the Dayco instructions. I can press the belt along the run between the crank and cam and the pointer goes of the scale but turning the engine with a spanner brings it back into the slot. All appears well but all that messing to set a tensioner makes me nervous. Finally the belt runs right on the edge of the tensioner wheel and I mean totally flush. Is there meant to be a spacer washer between the block and the tensioner? If there was it would fix the problem with the belt being perilously close to the edge of the wheel and it may be why it won't tension very easily. Cheers All.

Thanks for the replies but this engine is scrap. Popped the head, water has got into 1 and 4 and the rust has pitted the bore. :-( Time to look for a block.

Thanks for the replies all. I have had a quick look today and it looks simple enough but I have 1 question about the rocker cover. I looks like the rocker cover is also the cam carrier and so I don't wish to disturb it if I don't have to. Can I just remove the 10 head bolts and lift the whole head off complete or is there a reason I need to disturb the rest? M12 seems to be the size I need and failing any other suggestions I will pick one up in the morning. Cheers

Thanks Malte. Anyone know the spline key size for the head bolts?

Hi All, My daughter has just been given a low mileage 1.0 Lupo (AUC engine) for her first car. It was her nan's but ill health has stopped her driving. Anyway it has sat for 3 years and the engine is seized solid so I am going to pop the head off and have a look how bad it is. It looks simple enough to pull these heads off but the head bolts are 12 pointed, I think they are called spline bolts. The question is what size bit do I need to buy? I don't want to buy a whole set. I have never freed an engine before and have heard everything from coca cola, to normal penetrating fluid, to diesel and brake fluid. Has anyone actually done it and what worked for them? Cheers all

Hi All Joined because I have a sick Lupo. Well technically my daughter does but that is still my problem. Dads, you know how it works.