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Drum Brake Whining Since Changing Wheels


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So I changed my alloys over to steelies last week, ever since, there's been a whine coming from the rear passenger side drum brake. I got the car up in the air yesterday and sure enough, there seems to be something binding the brake slightly. The wheel spins but you can hear it scraping something, grit perhaps?

Anyway, what's the deal with adjusting drum brakes? Is it hard to take the drum brake apart and clean them? I've been told it's one screw but I've not had a proper look. I drove it work today, which was 35 miles and the noise has somewhat got a little quieter. I did the whole handbrake on off thing to see if the self-adjuster could dislodge anything and it is fairly quiet now but I can still hear it whirring which makes me think it's still binding and ultimately, that'll slow the car down and increase fuel consumption.

Suggestions? :)

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i did the exact same thing last week put steelies on and it was as if the break was catching it went faster as i did and it was worse when i put my handbreak slightly on was about to take the drum apart this week but i got my alloys back and now its stopped i dont have a clue what it is

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When I changed my Arosa from alloys to steels, I put the same bolts in.

Luckily I span the wheel before putting it on the ground as the bolt fouled the brake pad\mech stopping the wheel turning.

Put the original SEAT bolts in and all was fine. The alloy bolts were about 10mm longer.

Jack up and unscrew your bolts a couple of turns see if it's clear then.

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Silver, will give that a try at lunch. It could be the wheel bolts touching something, never thought of that. Perhaps I've over tightened them, I don't use a torque wrench however, I think you might be right with regards to the bolts. I think these are alloy bolts not steelie bolts. I also have a locking wheel nut which is designed for VW alloys... I might take that out first and see if it makes a difference.

Edited by Skezza
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Well that would move the shoes outwards, so it may move them out of reach of the bolt ends.

Makes sense. I'll take out the locking wheel nut when I get back and if it makes no difference i'll get it up in the air tonight and loosen off the wheel nuts slightly and see what's going on. I know for a fact before I fitted the steels there was no noise so I doubt the shoes are worn.

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Was having a quick browse through the drum brake section of ElsaWin and found this regarding 'resetting' the drums:

mIPLV0m.png

Insert a screwdriver through a threaded wheel bolt hole in the wheel hub/brake drum and push the wedge upwards.

Huh? Which hole? Any hole?

Edited by Skezza
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I think any hole, but you will have to turn the hub until a hole becomes the "right hole".

...and I think this is to release the auto adjuster to allow the shoes to return as far as possible o remove the drum.

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just remove the drum to adjust the shoes. its easier that way. and you want to set it so you can hear the shoes rubbing the drum but they still turn alright!

(oh and to remove drum, the little screw like what holds on brake disk.. then pull off (with handbrake released!))

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Right, took both the back wheels off. The passeoer side is quiet but the wheel does come to a stop from the hub, is that normal? On the driver side the drum is still binding and also grinding. I gave it a tap with a tommy bar and a whole lot of crap came out the bottom of the drum, just like carbon and stuff. Gave it another tap and even more crap came out. How hard is it to get the drum back on once you've taken it off? Can it be difficult because I assume the adjusters come all the way out? Or is that the point of leaving the handbrake off?

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leave the handbrake off. it comes off and goes back on fine. when you remove the drum nothing will fling out.. but if you have the handbrake on you wont be able to remove the drum. it will be like removing brake calipers with someone stepped on the pedal!

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Cheers James I'll have a look. It's binding even when the brake isn't applied. It's not very nice. Quite annoying in fact. It's scrubbing constantly.

I'll take the drum off and see if I can see what's making the noise.

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Do I need any special tools to do it? I know getting the drum off is a screwdriver, but do I need a break adjuster tool? The little square thing? Do I need to remove the centre caps to?

Edited by Skezza
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