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Straightliner Drag/Street Quattro :) Videos from Gti International Qtr mile now added


Lovedubs
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Right then, i have a full build thread on this car on clubgti.com forum but i thought it may be of interest on here

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?258969-Lupo-Straightliner

If so let me know and i will start a build thread on here

Edited by Lovedubs
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Fair amount needs to be done mainly fabricating mounts for engine, g.box, subframes, choping/welding shell etc

Also bits like rerouting brake lines, installing hydro clutch pedal and line, making new suspension pick up points, removing fuel tank and making a smaller one, new fuel lines, grafting big arches

Electrics to sort out, roll cage, seat mounts ect ect

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

was going to say use look at ak body crafts mk1 and the mk1 rocket rocco should be easily be running those times deepening on set up will need super stiff rear suspension

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Iknow both owners of those cars, used to race against them in Ecs series. Ak was owned by Andy Waite and was running 700 bhp plus

Mk1 Rocco is my friend Paul Jordan, he is now in region of 800 bhp coupled to a SQS 4 speed drag dog box with sequential shifter and he is in low to mid 9s

Not as easy as people think to get into 9s never mind 8s

Cheers for positive comments tho, keeps me going

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  • 1 month later...

Update time

Lots have been done since i was last on here. Aiming to have it done for Gti Inters in July

Engine bay cleaned and painted

Brakes are done, running Mk2 golf 256mm 16v calipers with turned down Mk4 288mm discs on Vr6 hubs

A3 steering rack connected and plumbed in

Hydro clutch line plumbed in

Pedal box installed with Mk4 Hydro clutch pedal

Mk4 Handbrake installed using A3 Quattro cables and modified aly guide tubes

Haldex ecu modified and electronic in car controller tested, all working fine

Cage fabricated and welded in from 48mm x3.2mm wall tube (drag racing regs require 3mm wall min)

Random pics

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  • 2 months later...

I thought about how i cant fully trust rear coilover bottom mounting points being in place designed for a damper fearing that it may fracture during hard lanches or hitting pot holes as there will be quite alot stress on there so i set upon making some spring locating platforms into rear shassis rails so springs can go in oem location


Started by chopping off top spring locating cup as i want to integrate mk4 coilover adjusters on top


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I decided to place oem Lupo spring locators on bottom quattro arms as they fit 2.5" coilover springs nicely. That is after alot of hassle trying to remove oem quattro spring platforms made of rubber, metal and hard plastic all sandwiched together!


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Test fitted spring in location so i can fabricate platforms for spring height adjusters


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Started on bottom arm by welding chopped of cup and an addition of M10 bolt in middle so spring locating cap can be secured in place



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Then i turned attention to top spring platform and decided to weld M12 bolt to the mounting plate with bolt head chopped off so i can weld it to the shassis rail


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Installed spring in desired location and jacked up rear trailing arm into the desired height and tacked top platform in place ready for welding


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Once all was welded i primed and painted it then done the other side smiley1.gif

It will need experimenting quite alot with different spring lengths and firmness and i may even end up running secondary springs on dampers for drag racing

Idea behind beign if i carefully arrange secondary spring height and stiffness by means of soft tender springs and stiff mains that it only comes into the play during hard launches and takes the cars weight transfer to prevent squat

At all other times main spring on trailing arm will do all the work of controlling suspension movement


Never ending fabricating, shopping, welding and painting soon to end so fun can begin installing fueling set up and Engine/Transmission smiley1.gif

There is light at the end of a long dark tunnel

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Been plodding on with Lupo slowly but surelly

Dugg out a fuel set up i have had for a while now and decided to install the lot smiley1.gif

Doing it to the drag racing regs, no fuel components are allowed inside the cabin so bit of head scratching was required to decide best placement for the tank, pumps, swirl pot and lines

Decided to install fuel tank in place of passenger seat. It is an old ATL Baffled fuel cell out of a forest rally car (Pug 205) It lives in a nicelly made purpose built ally enclosure that acts as a fire proof enclosure


Ally box mounted and a 50mm tube installed through the back so braided lines can be routed outside the cabin


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Fuel cell dropped in and secured


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Next bit is to mount and install this lot somewhere underneath


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Few fresh bits to complete the set up


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Comprises of Holley red high flow low pressure pump, 1.5L swirl pot, 044 high pressure pump, Bosch high flow filter, Ally high flow check valve and 8mm/10mm AN6 and AN8 braided lines

Decided to get some fresh PTFE lines that go the tank to eliminate possible petrol smell in the cabin. Supply and return Lines made and routed including breather


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I opted to make some mounting points underneath driver side rear bench so i can run lines through the shassis like oem lines

Bit tight under there so i had to mock up rough install to locate tall swirl pot and pumps high enough and eliminate danger of any components getting knocked, which ment fabing up ally enclosure and cutting some more metal out


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Holley red mounted to the side, 044 just bellow and made a platform for the swirl pot. As 044 and Sw Pot are screwed into each other, it makes for a solid assembly


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Hoses made off and connected


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Pumps wired temporarily, some petrol poured in and tested for functionality and leaks


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All was well but pumps are loud, not to bothered to be honest as its not exactly an S class Merc, smiley36.gif



To begin with i used two small internal lift pumps that lift fuel from the tank into a small enlosure within tank from where Holley red is to be fed but it didnt work so well as Holley was drawing more fuel then 2 intrnal pumps could supply!


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So i removed tank within the tank and routed Holley pump supply hose at lowest point under the foam baffles which was much better

Should work well i think

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Sooo, a bit more done on the Lupo

Wiring rerouted in situ again inside the car and dashboard carcass offered up

Gearbox washed and semi mounted so i can work out placement and fabricate mounts for gear shifter

Quickshift also installed and trialed along with solid bowden cable ends, its very clickety click

Bought some heat mating wich i have finished off along the edges with aluminium tape to prevent fraying

Starting to look like a car again smiley1.gif


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Also fuel pumps wired in, good thick main +12v feed and 60 Amp relay located adjacent to pumps for minimal losses


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Made a shifter mounting frame/platform

Took great care into choosing best possible position that suits my self, height and slight angle. Feels very comfy and right where it should be


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Also started on interior, looking for best placement for gauges etc and reailised Lupo heater controls dials plastic housing looked about right as a gauge holder

Offered up a gauge holder against it i had made ages ago and it lines up perfect on outer two holes smiley1.gif


Riveted on to it


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Middle hole needs bit of plastic cutting out


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And a little grind


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Loose fitted into dashboard, it will simply click into the place, job done smiley1.gif


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A3 donated its powerplant


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Soon to be bolted to the 4wd 02M box and bolted under Lupo bonnet


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I will try if present tubular manifold/turbo combo clears Lupo brake servo, if it does i will leave it as it is for now in order to try and complete the car in time for inters smiley1.gif

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Good news!

Engine/G.box/exh manifold/Turbo fits Lupo bay just like in Audi so i cracked on by bolting the lot in smiley1.gif

Swapped gearboxes first and rerouted turbo oil drain pipe so it clears transfer box


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Then i prepped the engine bay and wiggled the engine/box in, it is tight in there!


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Quick update

Engine and box fully strapped in

Brakes done

Clutch hydraulics plumbed in, nice and light pedal

Coolant plumbed in

Boost hoses done

Fuel lines all done



Today i'v chopped and welded propshaft, 80mm taken out from full length Audi TT shaft so its fairly long wheel base for a Lupo, same as mk1 Golf maybe a bit longer


All bolted in, nice and straight and level, very happy indeed

Few pics


Cut

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Then cut 80mm of the shaft and check it's straight


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Nice and flat, also shamfered edges for a stronger weld(no pic)


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Weld all round then add 4x stitches 90* across for extra strength


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Job done


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Prop bolted on and also hoop bearing brackets are done(no pic)

Lots of room for the exhaust as i am planning to run 4" downpipe once 2.0L stroker is built and fitted breathing through a GT3582R


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Free time permitting next w-end engine should be running and car driving for the first time

Oil cooler to mount yet, electrics to sort, management to install, gauges to wire in, exhaust to make etc etc then onto bodywork, mainly arches to graft on

Still on track to have it race ready at inters for its first outing, body may be in several colours and held by gaffer tape but it will be there!



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  1. Tonight i have started on electrics so decided to mount race battery first

    It came with a cradle for vertical mounting against a flat surface but i had no space to mount it in that way so i made a backing plate to turn cradle into a box

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    And then mounted it over the g.box mount

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    Then added main earth and starter wire made in nice thick cable and proper crimps

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    Tested for cranking power and all is well, engine turns over nice and fast smiley1.gif

    P1260011.jpg301.jpg321.jpgd1.jpg181.jpgz1.jpg

    Under rebuild........

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