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Noisy Check Strap Repair - Better that new?


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Recently bought a 2002 Lupo 1.0. Looked good, but has had a few minor problems that I've been steadily sorting. Most annoying has been the noisy door clicking caused by the failed bushes in the door check straps. Was inspired by excellent posting http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/95868-how-to-ghetto-fix-long-term-fix-checkstraps-without-buying-a-new-pair/?hl=%2Bcheck+%2Bstrap to try and fix without spending the £50 that it would take to get two replacement check straps, but did it a little differently.

First Try

  • Basically followed the earlier post using some plastic spacers that I had which were conveniently close enough to required size to let me sand them down by a mm or so to get a tight fit.
  • Worked and doors opened and closed quietly, but there was still a little play in pin that attaches the check strap to the car body. Worried that this play would ultimately lead to the same type of failure that the standard part suffers from.
  • Decided that I needed to find a better option for the bush replacement so had a look for a metal alternative.

Solution

  • Was able to fix without removing the check straps, but because one of the straps was loose decided to remove it to fix.
  • Removed all of the remnants of the original plastic bushes and cleaned up the part
  • The replacement bush needs to have 12mm outer diameter, 6mm inner diameter and 8mm height. Found a brass replacement, OB061208, at 88p each. Purchased from Amazon, cheaper delivery that the home website of the supplier. http://www.amazon.co.uk/OB061208-Plain-Oilite-Bearing-Bush/dp/B00DEDEURE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1377118325&sr=1-1&keywords=OB061208
  • Bush was going to be a little big, so 5 minutes with sandpaper to take a little off the diameter. Checked the pin fitting. Was perfect, rotates freely, but zero play.
  • Used a vice to force the first bush into the check strap. Worked, but decided to give the sandpaper an extra few minutes for the second bush and was able to get it into the check strap in-situ without need for a vice.
  • Fitted check strap, secured pin and greased.

Result

An absolutely perfect fix that I think will survive as long as the car.

Now onto next job, replacing the lambda sensor.

Colin.

Edited by camscar
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You saved the day sir!

I have a feeling the company you linked from eBay are just selling these (for the extortionate price of course).

I think so long as you're willing to do a bit of work, the way listed in the post is probably the best. It's a shame he didn't post it earlier, because I've found a company potentially selling the perfect size Nylon tube for this job at next to nothing. I bought a meter just so I could try it, despite the fact mine are already fixed. However I'll probably buy some of these to verify the solution in the OP.

Thanks :)

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I have a feeling the company you linked from eBay are just selling these (for the extortionate price of course).

I think so long as you're willing to do a bit of work, the way listed in the post is probably the best. It's a shame he didn't post it earlier, because I've found a company potentially selling the perfect size Nylon tube for this job at next to nothing. I bought a meter just so I could try it, despite the fact mine are already fixed. However I'll probably buy some of these to verify the solution in the OP.

Thanks :)

Check to see if it's fine, I'll be interested in buying some

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I just bought 6 ;)

£2.50 postage, but no extra charge per item so may as well buy a few to make it worth your while :)

I'll let you know how I get on :D

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How much does it ned to be sanded down? 1mm? more?

When the bush is in, it needs to rotate round?

Absolutely sick of ours now, was going to do ghetto, but this looks like it'll last longer, so fingers crossed :)

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The bush is tight when fitted. It shouldn't move, although I guess there would be no issue if it moved a little. My sanding probably took no more than a fraction of a mm off. I'd have probably been able to force in with a vice with no sanding, but I thought that light sanding would remove a little of the diameter and also polish up the outer edge a little, hopefully making it easy to get the bush in. I did the second check strap while it was still fitted to the door so gave it a bit more of an aggressive sand, checking as I went until was able to force the bush in with my fingers. Could have used a pair of pliers if I'd needed to apply a bit more force.

The bush doesn't move, but the pin that drops into the middle has to be able to freely rotate. Thankfully this was the case with no sanding, just dropped in a worked.

A really quick and easy fix.

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After fitting new Teflon bushes, my right side door is silent as a new car, but I'm afraid the left side check strap might be broken inside the door, as it still makes weird sounds and it keeps un-screwing the bolts :(

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How much does it ned to be sanded down? 1mm? more?

When the bush is in, it needs to rotate round?

Absolutely sick of ours now, was going to do ghetto, but this looks like it'll last longer, so fingers crossed :)

No. The bush really shouldn't move at all. That's what's causing the noise in the first place :P

This will definitely last longer than the ghetto fix, and probably longer than the more permanent fix I described in the same thread, although the nylon pipe method is a perfectly good way of doing it. Both my doors are fixed this way and are very quiet ;) I imagine the nylon pipe fix will last for 3 - 5 years, however I'd say this one is arguably as good as forever lol.

@Danyutz

Sounds like the bracket is broken on yours, this is usually a welding job to fix :(

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Just want to add my own 2 pence to this discussion.

I also purchased 8 of these bushes, just in case I messed one up and as no doubt the next Lupo I own will have the same problem! The only second hand Lupo I've ever come across without this problem had no check straps at all, but mysterious creases in the wings (idiot for letting his doors swing back).

I've had the more permanent plastic bush fix that I detailed in my thread in the passenger door for about a year now and there's no need to replace that. I think that is as good a fix as any, but I'll keep tabs on if that one starts to wear out. Just recently, the temporary (heatshrink) fix also started to go (not bad for about 6 months though with me opening the door several times a day).

Anyway, I decided get these out of the assorted car bits draw and have a pop fitting one to the creaking drivers door. I'm a bit lazy, so the last thing I want to do is actually remove the check strap :P I'd rather do it with the check strap in the door. Of course, this could have gone pear shaped but luckily it went alright.

As I stated in the original thread, it wasn't necessary with the heatshrink fix to remove the original top hat bush, but with this method, it obviously it is. There isn't really a very easy way to get the original one out. It's either glued in, or held in via something pretty tight because I was trying to lift it using a flat screwdriver, but the top hat section began to crack and break off. I ended up using a circular file from the bottom and simply pushed it out. Took some pushing I tell you, but it eventually came out.

The new brass bush was too big, as has been already established so I quickly rubbed it down with emery paper. I'd say it took about 10 minutes with a few fitting attempts in between. I also found the pin was just a tiny bit too big for the inside of the bush, so I had to rub that down as well. I reckon a file would do that fairly well but I used a combi tool which took 30 seconds, maybe less with a grinder tip; that was all good to go. I cleaned up the check strap and pin as there was absolutely tonnes of mucky old filthy grease, slime and grunge on it. It was mostly the old grease and probably WD40 and bits of old tophat bush... probably a few bits of heatshrink too :P I greased it using some Halfrauds spray grease and fitted the new bush which I then sprayed in grease again. Impressive results. Worth the bit of effort for the savings. I am going to re-grease it using some Carlube Lithium grease from B&Q, £4 a tube. I'm never convinced with spray grease but it's okay for the moment. I imagine I'll never need to touch it again after that and jobs a good'n.

Photo:

szsk.jpg

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Cool, was awaiting your feedback.

So overall, would you recommend this metal bush or your bodged ones? Ours is going mental, even though, the car is not used or needed anymore as the misses can walk to work now (tart)

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Cool, was awaiting your feedback.

So overall, would you recommend this metal bush or your bodged ones? Ours is going mental, even though, the car is not used or needed anymore as the misses can walk to work now (tart)

Either/or really. If you want a really quick temporary fix that would literally take you seconds to do, go for the heatshrink job. It takes like seconds to simply whip the pin out, wrap it in heatshrink and pop it back in. Say you just need to fix it really quickly, short-term it's probably the best option.

Using the nylon tubing (the more permanent fix I suggested in my thread) is a good option for those who don't want to remove the original bush because if you have part of the top hat bush left in (assuming part has worn away), there's no reason to remove it, the tubing I included in the thread will fit. Also, it works very well with the check straps with aluminium bushes which came on later model Lupo's and is a good fit for those, so you might find for simple ease of application that's the best way. I've had this on my passenger door now for about a year, and it's just as quiet as the day I fitted it so I think this one will last for anywhere between 3-5 years, or even longer.

The brass bush is probably the most effective all round though and once done, I reckon is good for the lifetime of the car, but it took a bit of work to get it in, not just the outside, but the inside of the bush too! Filing the inside of a bush is pretty hard work at times, and while I was able to use a dremel multi tool, you might find it quite tough with a hand file, although not impossible. Note you've also got to get the original bush out and once done, there ain't no going back really (it usually breaks upon removal)... so be prepared to remove the original nylon bush and then work on the brass bush filing, sanding etc until it fits. You have no other option really.

If you've got the time, I would go for the metal bush definitely, but it's really up to you.

All of them are bodge jobs to to speak, 'Official' VW suggest a brand new pair of check straps to fix creaking doors :P:D

Edited by Skezza
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  • 3 months later...

Just bought these, had to buy them on ebay though as amazon link doesn't work, doh.

How do you get the old ones out?

Think I'll be taking the door straps as, as no doubt I'll get angry and fart

With brute force and idiocy. There's two bushes that sort of plug into each other. The bottom one actually collapsed before I had chance to remove it, and just dropped out on its own. For the second, I took a flat head screwdriver and lifted round the edges, but that was starting to crack it. So, I took a piece of nylon tube of a close diameter, and shoved it from the bottom while lifting the top edge. It jumped out with a bit of effort.

Beware, once you've done it, there's no going back. You need to get the brass bush fitted. Also, don't add any oil before fitting the brass bush. It's oilite, and will make the job harder.

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