Karl_Mac_ Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Just found a couple of pics of my old system, the 2 10's were mounted on a board that was flat on the boot floor, so if you were to raise the mounting plate there should be plenty space to have a port This is the board:What were the Audiobahns like? Fancy some and they look reasonably priced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Would like to see a bit of a tutorial on the arch rolling when you get round to it Noted. I'll definitely make one if:I remember I don't balls it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 What were the Audiobahns like? Fancy some and they look reasonably priced.I cant say they're brilliant - hence the upgrade but if you want to boom on a budget, they'll do the job Bearing in mind that i did not have them in an ideal enclosure (very shoddy, the back of the box was the seats ) they didn't perform too bad.The build quality, i would say, is pretty poor - the tacky fake chrome basket is rather flimsy, feels almost plastic and i'm not the biggest fan of the looks of it. I only got these because the store ran out of stock of my ordered items and these were upgraded replacements.In all honesty i would go with i better brand name:JBLAlpinePioneerJLGround ZeroThere are the 'Halfords' brands to consider as well:FliJuiceEdgeInPhaseVibeThese could be an option as i have had fairly good experiences with my Fli's but a good bit of research is key, if you don't want ear bleeding bass, chose one that you think looks nice as any sub will make a vast improvement on any system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl_Mac_ Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I cant say they're brilliant - hence the upgrade but if you want to boom on a budget, they'll do the job Bearing in mind that i did not have them in an ideal enclosure (very shoddy, the back of the box was the seats ) they didn't perform too bad.The build quality, i would say, is pretty poor - the tacky fake chrome basket is rather flimsy, feels almost plastic and i'm not the biggest fan of the looks of it. I only got these because the store ran out of stock of my ordered items and these were upgraded replacements.In all honesty i would go with i better brand name:JBLAlpinePioneerJLGround ZeroThere are the 'Halfords' brands to consider as well:FliJuiceEdgeInPhaseVibeThese could be an option as i have had fairly good experiences with my Fli's but a good bit of research is key, if you don't want ear bleeding bass, chose one that you think looks nice as any sub will make a vast improvement on any system Thats a shame. I had some about ten years ago (before they had UK distributor) and they were epic. A 12" sub weighed about 20kgs, took two of us to lift it and install it. This was before all the flame basket shenanigans though. What door speakers would recommend for a mid range price for someone that likes things that go Wub?I guess with subs its freq range and rms are the ones to look for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinnyzf Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 My system is in and it slams like **** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted September 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 Thats a shame. I had some about ten years ago (before they had UK distributor) and they were epic. A 12" sub weighed about 20kgs, took two of us to lift it and install it.This was before all the flame basket shenanigans though.What door speakers would recommend for a mid range price for someone that likes things that go Wub?I guess with subs its freq range and rms are the ones to look for?Door speaker wise you will want a set of component speakers, if you want them loud then get an amp for them. You want to get a set with good strong mid bass, the independent crossovers you get with a set of components should help you tune them so you are not getting to much treble or low freq bass that could damage them.Always go off RMS ratings as this is the power things can handle all day long, most of the time subs and whatnot will be listed as like 1200W but only have an RMS of 300W, if you mis match ratings on subs and amps your likely to pop something - either driving an amp too hard or pushing a sub way past its limits.If your looking for really low frequencies, like sub 32Hz then you will NEED to be looking at xmax, this is how far the sub travels in and out - bigger xmax, more air it can push and lower frequencies will be more achievable.Generally xmax isn't shown on the tech specs of crappier subs, so if it has the excursion stated somewhere, your most likely looking at a decent woofer. Bare in mind, the lower the freq the more violently the sub will shake so you will have to bolt it down solid.I went for a set of focal comps, i think you can pick them up for around £130 now, when i first installed them i thought they were brilliant but i've got used to the increased noise level now and i'm finding myself wanting to go louder Absolutely fantastic sound quality though 100000x better than the stock ones.Have a read around of some reviews and stuff, make a decision on that. Its very much on personal preference what you chose, you could chose to get something that, on paper, is twice as good as another set for the same price but is from a less reputable brand name or you could chose a less powerful set from a more reputable name. Theres just so much to chose from, i think i spent about 4 months choosing comps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted September 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 Would like to see a bit of a tutorial on the arch rolling when you get round to it Well this is my attempt at rolling, i should have heated the paint with my heat gun but the paint was already balls'd up so i just gave a lick of paint over the cracks.All i did was adjust the roller to have a fairly uniform pressure as i went all the way round, then kept increasing the pressure and adjusting the head until i got as flat as i could, once i got it to that state i beaded the edge with silicone sealant to bridge the gap and stop any corrosion and stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Guess who just failed their MOT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTIChris Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Bummer Not too expensive I hope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted September 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mini_ash Posted September 22, 2013 Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 for 001 you have nothing on your windows unless he was and going crazy about your stuff on your rear view what is just daft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted September 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2013 It was my air fresheners, hanging from the rear view mirror It's stupid, the tester MUST remove them just to tick the passed box, ridiculous because your just going to hang 'em back up again. What a faff.Then you see all the crap and 'distractions' floating round in the fuzz's cars. Makes you wonder how it is part of an MOT when, even the police, take no notice of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James827 Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 (edited) HA 0:26 of the video Edited September 23, 2013 by James827 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Well, she's passed her MOT Also sorted my spongey brakes out - bled the rears but when it came to the fronts i just twisted the nipples clean off they were so tight. New callipers in the post.New wing mirrors in the post also so that will be another little thing checked off my to do list, silver back cans though so ill see if i like them better than the black, if i don't i might consider trying a bit of that plasti-dip malarky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 This was the reason i needed new tyres. LOL.I've been running my nasty steels which leak but have tread for the MOT the past month or so, so while the alloys were off i took the opportunity to get them refurbished before the brand spanky Falken's. It was going to cost £50 for the tyres to be replaced anyway but the wheel place fitted them with the refurb so that essentially knocked £50 off the job.Got them back the other day. SHINNEYYYYYYYAll thats left is for me to do is clean up the tyres, dress them with Megs endurance then wax the wheels with the wheel whores wax thats in the post Oh, and get my geometry done.Good times. £600 tax rebate also to add to the good shizzle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted October 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 Ok then, my wax has arrived, and it smells AWESOME, ill be getting that on ASAP. Tyres have been cleaned ready for dressing.Mirrors also came so i've started fitting them - They came with elements in the glass so i'm in the middle of wiring those in to come on with the rear windscreen heater, pictures likely to follow.Callipers have arrived as well so i'm cleaning them up and giving them a couple of coats of matte black VHT, currently done 1.It's been a busy day today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted October 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2013 Ok, so admittedly i didn't get as many pictures as i was hoping for but its all pretty basic stuff. One wire to ground and one to the switched positive on the rear windscreen switch, thats it. Chuffed with how they work, pretty good when there wet/misty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 Been busting my balls trying to get black going. This happened. Now all i need is an MOT and i can see if she'll last more than 10 miles. I'm just praying something will go right for once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent321 Posted November 28, 2013 Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 Nice work!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 LOOOONG time no update.. So here's one for ya..Boot build has currently stalled due to lack of time and is pretty much unchanged since the last update but I WILL FINISH IT. Eventually.Currently working on retrofitting fog lights into the Mk1 'rosa - at the moment, i have the fog switch (fitted) and the lower valance with fogs (fitted). Just waiting for the loom (which is on order) to arrive and then attempt to get my head around the wiring of it all.Incase anybody is wondering, the lower bumper valance is interchangeable between the Mk1's and Lupo's so if you have an Arosa and want some fogs, you can fit the Lupo section (which i believe is black as opposed to grey)Also i have modified my bass control knob/switch and fitted it into the blank switch panel which i gained when i fitted the Lupo centre console. I have tried to use OEM parts where possible to make it fit with the interior as best as i could.Think i might re-do it with another blank as it's slightly off centre and the clipping light is obstructed by the knob when in the drivers seat. Also thinking about adding a slight recess into the knob and dabbing a little white paint in it so i can see the orientation of it.Any guessed what i made the knob out of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattarosa Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Where have you ordered your fog loom from? If its the same place im thinking of you could be waiting a while... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Its ordered from Kufatec.co.uk Have you used that loom before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattarosa Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 I've used the loom twice. Cant fault it, give me a shout if you need a hand although mines in a mark 2. The earth point is just in front of the horn and the long cable with the light plug is the offside one if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted December 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 Cheers, i'm sure ill bombard you with questions when the loom arrives I'm just hoping that the wiring is present between the switch, fuse box and other bits that it should be. I have fitted the 2 click pull out switch and all the current fitted lights work, however when i pull the switch out 1 click, no light illuminates to show that the front fogs should be on, either on the switch or in the cluster, the only fog light light that does illuminate is the rear when pulled out twice, that illuminates in the cluster like it should. I was expecting a light on the switch or a separate one in the cluster to come on for the front fogs but nothing, not sure if this is as it should be or what?Would like to know from a Mk1 owner with fogs or a 2000 polo or ibiza alike if there is any front fog indication light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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