darvey Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Im sure most people are aware that when installing an aftermarket headunit you need an aerial booster.But where do you get the switched live from to power it?The head unit has a wire for a remote, can i use this as i have no intentions of using a remote?Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 (edited) I'm trying to remeber how i did mine but i'm pretty sure i just read the manual and it told me which cable coming from the back of the hu was live and stuck it into that. Edited September 20, 2012 by Pete91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darvey Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 How as it connects to a block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Nah in mine there was a few loose cables coming out the back of the hu and one of them was live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 (edited) You shouldn't be getting any switched live from the rear of your HU, that's not how it works. The switched live comes from the block, but I don't suggest tapping straight into the block.Have you fitted the standard wiring harness? The PC2-69-4? If so, there is a blue wire that is unattached that you connect the aerial booster to. The aerial booster will also have a blue wire so they match. I suggest snipping both ends and adding bullet connectors because I found the original clips to be horribly insecure and they caused static.For what it's worth, the aerial booster signal separation filter is only really necessary for AM. I personally use AM all the time so I need it, but if you don't then I would avoid using it as it takes up a reasonable amount of space. I suggest the PC5-90 as your booster, not the more commonly used PC5-52 as that requires you to buy a second adapter. Couple that with the chance of an extension cable (I had to because the antenna socket was on the opposite side) and you turn the little space you have behind your HU into a rats nest and it makes it very hard to manoeuvre. Plus it works out a little more expensive.Going from the cheapest placesPC2-69-4 off eBay is £2.62PC5-90 off eBay is £2.47.In most cases that'll be enough, but if your antenna socket is on the other side of the head unit, you might need an extra 30cm extension, which is about 3 quid too. That is enough to get the booster fitted okay.If you follow the Halfrauds experience (and most VW forums), they suggest you buy:PC2-69-4, again £2.62PC5-52, on eBay, £2.63At this point, you'll likely have a problem because your PC5-52 is an ISO plug as used by VW's OEM radio, but most aftermarket HU's use a standard DIN connection. So... you'll have to buy the adapter, about 2-3 quid (i don't suggest 99p adapters). If you buy the adapter, and you can't reach, then you'll still have to buy the 30cm cable!! It comes to a few quid more, which is just unnecessary.That should just about do it. Let me know if you need any tips, I have quite a lot of experience fitting radios in a Lupo.Is there any desire for me to write a bit of a guide on it? I've fitted DIN and Double DIN, so I've come across most of the issues people experience. That said, my amp fitting and wiring knowledge is fairly limited, so I'm only talking wiring the radio itself.Edit:Of course, the alternative (if you aren't bothered about AM) is don't fit a booster, for that, you'll just need the ISO - DIN adapter I talked about in the second option. Plug it straight onto the aerial cable and into the back of your HU and you'll have FM no problem. Don't expect AM though. Edited September 21, 2015 by Skezza 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darvey Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Cheers for the info I've got the connectors you mentioned from eBay. Loads cheaper than halfords and I get trade discount! The JVC head unit I have does not require the harness adaptor as it was supplied with one that is different. The connector on the head unit is smaller. I only really use fm so in that case I'll just remove the booster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Cheers for the info I've got the connectors you mentioned from eBay. Loads cheaper than halfords and I get trade discount! The JVC head unit I have does not require the harness adaptor as it was supplied with one that is different. The connector on the head unit is smaller. I only really use fm so in that case I'll just remove the booster.That is definitely the easiest option if you don't need AM. I've not heard of anyone getting any kind of improvement from the booster with regards to FM.Without it, you won't hear much on AM, but FM will be totally unaffected. If you already have the ISO-DIN adapter, that is all you need. I suggest buying one slightly better than a 99p job, simply because they can make a difference on sound quality, that said, I've not heard anyone complain about the 99p ones being bad.I didn't realise that JVC supplied their own wiring harnesses. Sounds like a right bitch. Mine has a specialist plug on the back of the HU but it comes with a converter to standard ISO block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darvey Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 The JVC harness plugged straight into the one in the car so was a piece of cake. That's why I was a tad confused as to where to get a switched live from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Oh, okay. Does it keep the memory settings etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darvey Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 No it's dumping them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashh Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Swap red and yellow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 (edited) Ashh, it sounds to me as though he's still missing the adapter, so swapping red and yellow as you put it would not work, in fact I don't think there is a yellow on the OEM block (??? can't remember, haven't touched the OEM block in a long time).darvey, to sort your issue with the memory settings, I recommend getting the adapter PC2-69-4 despite the device coming with its own connector. This adapter basically standardizes the ISO block from the car so as the poster above says, you can just swap red and yellow.If you want to be clever, stick a multimeter on the pins, work out live, work out switched live, then bullet them up and switch them, but I recommend the adapter personally. Easier, quicker, and safer. Plus, it will sort any other issues you might have such as the disco dash which I had with my old radio which was essentially the radio being fully illuminated after I had turned my car off. Fixed by the PC2-69-4 adapter.If its a single DIN JVC, you should have no problem fitting the adapter at the back, even if it is tight. Edited September 21, 2012 by Skezza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darvey Posted September 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2012 Switched the red and yellow and it appears to have worked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Switched the red and yellow and it appears to have workedNice one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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