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Ignition wire for headunit dead


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Hey, I was supposed to be doing my audio today but found myself testing the iso power wiring over and over again and looking at diagrams and now its dark.

When I received the headunit some of the wires were cut I assumed to fit another headunit as my car came without one.

My new headunit won't power on unless I push the ignition wire into the permanent live, then it switches on.

Its all tested with a multimeter, the red and brown wire (ignition) is totally dead with and without ignition, if I connect it between itself and 12v permanent the multimeter shows 0.01v, don't think this makes any difference

Is there a place this could be severed? Where does the ignition feed come from? Is there a fuse for it as I am sure I tested all the fuses in the fuse box and replaced any blown ones? Can I just take a feed from the Ignition key second click thing under the wheel?

I don't want to have to turn on my headunit manually every time I get in and out of my car and I do not want to wire an ignition wire to it that could cause an electrical fire, I use solder and heatshrink to be sure.

Please somebody advise what to do, I can probably find a wire and splice it in but If someone has a better solution I would rather hear it now than later.

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I will recheck all my fuses again tomorrow, after much searching i found a SEAT wiring diagram which says red and brown is ignition. I've checked all the other wires too and the illumination works, the speed volume works.

Really what I could do with is someone taking a picture of the back of their iso connector to make sure I've definitely got it wired up correctly because whoever snipped the wired previously to me owning it did it right up to the plug so there is no insulation and I have to guess.

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My remote was non existant with my headunit. So I spurred off the heated rear window switch! That's ignition live and works fine. Be carefull when you crimp them etc, an exposed wire is a dangerous wire!

dubmuffin, easy, take a crimp splitter connection then you can run a second wire from it and keep it neat, tidy and safe. All you need to do is make sure you put the insulated end on the live so that you don't get a short.

I think you can get them from Maplins, although I can't remember the technical name for them.

Edited by Skezza
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My remote was non existant with my headunit. So I spurred off the heated rear window switch! That's ignition live and works fine. Be carefull when you crimp them etc, an exposed wire is a dangerous wire!

I didn't think of going there for a wire, thanks!

I'll try and find some wire the same guage and run one from there, shame I lost my larger heatshrink I bought the other day :(

And then its how to get the wires through to the doors I presume I am going to have to take off most of the lower dash to open it up?

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There should be a red wire and a yellow wire, both with connectors on the wires? if you take the connectors apart and put one of the yellow wires with the red wire and the other the same, you should have a permanant live to your head unit.

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I have solved this, somehow it seems the ignition wire to the headunit (brown and red) has been grounded out somewhere on the car. After taking off the steering column surround I have found a wire spliced into the red and brown ignition wire connected to the ignition barrel with an inline fuse that was blown.

So I have cut back the grounded ignition from the iso and taped it off, brought the wire through from under the steering wheel, replaced the 10amp fuse and soldered the end of the wire into the iso connector.

Now the radio functions correctly.

I wish I knew where that wire was grounded out, but I guess it will have to wait, there are plenty other things need fixing.

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There should be a red wire and a yellow wire, both with connectors on the wires? if you take the connectors apart and put one of the yellow wires with the red wire and the other the same, you should have a permanant live to your head unit.

Only just realised what you were saying... If this was the case I would not be getting 0v with the ignition on and off, and the standard headunit would work fine, but it stayed on all the time. I would instead be getting 12v all the time. The ignition wire is grounded out somewhere. But sorted now

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